SD Jazz N / PG B for hollow body?
- Thread starter dubwise
- Start date
MojoMonster
Active member
Re: SD Jazz N / PG B for hollow body?
I paired it with the JP wiring and it was everything I needed in a semi-hollow.
If I hadn't purchased another semi-hollow I'd have upgraded the bridge/tailpiece to something lighter weight and maybe the tuners to go along with the Jazz/PG/JP mod.
Do it, you won't regret it.
MM
That combo sounded awesome in my Artcore AS83.
I paired it with the JP wiring and it was everything I needed in a semi-hollow.
If I hadn't purchased another semi-hollow I'd have upgraded the bridge/tailpiece to something lighter weight and maybe the tuners to go along with the Jazz/PG/JP mod.
Do it, you won't regret it.
MM
super rad stuff
Skaforlifeologist
Re: SD Jazz N / PG B for hollow body?
use a wire fed from the f-hole to the pot-holes to pull the pots through-string or fishing line should suffice. btw a jazz is fine to put into a semi-hollow and not feedback. most semi-hollows are however prone to feedback at higher volumes, but i'm sure you already know that
use a wire fed from the f-hole to the pot-holes to pull the pots through-string or fishing line should suffice. btw a jazz is fine to put into a semi-hollow and not feedback. most semi-hollows are however prone to feedback at higher volumes, but i'm sure you already know that
Chickenwings
Alnico 6/8
Re: SD Jazz N / PG B for hollow body?
Jazz neck is ideal for archtops.
Jazz neck is ideal for archtops.
super rad stuff
Skaforlifeologist
Re: SD Jazz N / PG B for hollow body?
i'm thinking i may have to try this in my dot since i've also got a PGb and jazzN, but i'd have to swap pickups out of all 3 of my axes to do this:scratchch
i'm thinking i may have to try this in my dot since i've also got a PGb and jazzN, but i'd have to swap pickups out of all 3 of my axes to do this:scratchch
blueman335
Mojo's Minions
Re: SD Jazz N / PG B for hollow body?
The JazzN is a low output PU & would cause less feedback than most other HB's. No cause for concern there.
I've rewired several dozen F hole guitars (335's & full hollowbodies, including a couple of Ibanez). I've put the 4 push-pull Jimmy Page system is a few of them. It's not hard at all, in spite of any stories you may have heard. I knew an otherwise intelligent guy who spent an hour getting the pots back in a 335 using string. It usually takes me 5 minutes.
Everything goes thru the lower F hole. A few basic tools make this fast & easy: A long stiff, plastic-coated wire (I got mine from a garden hose package), a 6" curved forcep, and a set of T-nut drivers (from Stewmac). The forcep will pull & push pots, and the stiff wire is needed to get the neck tone pot back in place (put the wire thru the neck tone pot hole, attach to the pot stem & pull it thru; hold it with the forcep while you carefully put the nut on, and use a T-driver to tighten the nut without scratching the guitar finish).
Other tips:
-When you start, set the guitar on a table with an old towel under it.
-You need good lighting & a fan for solder fumes.
-Set another old towel on top of the guitar & set everything on that as it comes out.
-Never cut wires until you know where they go, and make a color diagram of what you have now if you're not sure.
-In case it satarts looking like spaghetti, remember every PU, pot, toggle, & jack has a hot & a ground wire. The grounds are all connected in one big loop.
-Give an extra 2 or 3 inches of wires between each of the pots so nothong gets pulled tight upon re-entry.
-Test everything once when it's outside the guitar, and again when it's in place, but before you put the knobs back on.
If you get confused or frustrated, walk away & come back fresh. Ask if you need help.
The JazzN is a low output PU & would cause less feedback than most other HB's. No cause for concern there.
I've rewired several dozen F hole guitars (335's & full hollowbodies, including a couple of Ibanez). I've put the 4 push-pull Jimmy Page system is a few of them. It's not hard at all, in spite of any stories you may have heard. I knew an otherwise intelligent guy who spent an hour getting the pots back in a 335 using string. It usually takes me 5 minutes.
Everything goes thru the lower F hole. A few basic tools make this fast & easy: A long stiff, plastic-coated wire (I got mine from a garden hose package), a 6" curved forcep, and a set of T-nut drivers (from Stewmac). The forcep will pull & push pots, and the stiff wire is needed to get the neck tone pot back in place (put the wire thru the neck tone pot hole, attach to the pot stem & pull it thru; hold it with the forcep while you carefully put the nut on, and use a T-driver to tighten the nut without scratching the guitar finish).
Other tips:
-When you start, set the guitar on a table with an old towel under it.
-You need good lighting & a fan for solder fumes.
-Set another old towel on top of the guitar & set everything on that as it comes out.
-Never cut wires until you know where they go, and make a color diagram of what you have now if you're not sure.
-In case it satarts looking like spaghetti, remember every PU, pot, toggle, & jack has a hot & a ground wire. The grounds are all connected in one big loop.
-Give an extra 2 or 3 inches of wires between each of the pots so nothong gets pulled tight upon re-entry.
-Test everything once when it's outside the guitar, and again when it's in place, but before you put the knobs back on.
If you get confused or frustrated, walk away & come back fresh. Ask if you need help.
MojoMonster
Active member
Re: SD Jazz N / PG B for hollow body?
Plus, what I did, was make a template of sorts with a piece of plastic sheet I had laying around.
I drilled holes for the 4 pots, the switch and the jack roughly the same distances as on the guitar.
Remember which side is up.
And then loaded it with the pots, switch and jack.
That way I could wire almost everything up first.
Then I just put that on top of my towel to wire up the pickups and ground and tested everything *before* I put it in the guitar.
Cause mostly I suck and wiring.
You don't *need* a multi-meter, but it helps, especially if you think you fried a pot.
Instead of forceps I use a pair of needle nose pliers and a plastic rod.
It helps if you have small/thin fingers.
But, yea, take your time, triple check everything and if you get frustrated, put everything down and take a breather.
Last thing you want to do is to be yanking and pulling trying to force anything.
Good luck.
MM
What he said. +1
Plus, what I did, was make a template of sorts with a piece of plastic sheet I had laying around.
I drilled holes for the 4 pots, the switch and the jack roughly the same distances as on the guitar.
Remember which side is up.
And then loaded it with the pots, switch and jack.
That way I could wire almost everything up first.
Then I just put that on top of my towel to wire up the pickups and ground and tested everything *before* I put it in the guitar.
Cause mostly I suck and wiring.
You don't *need* a multi-meter, but it helps, especially if you think you fried a pot.
Instead of forceps I use a pair of needle nose pliers and a plastic rod.
It helps if you have small/thin fingers.
But, yea, take your time, triple check everything and if you get frustrated, put everything down and take a breather.
Last thing you want to do is to be yanking and pulling trying to force anything.
Good luck.
MM
