SG with P90s Question

ThreeChordWonder

New member
I just rewired my Epi SG Special. It has the P90s it came with. I used CTS (10%) pots and 0.022 uF orange drops.

I wired it for independent volumes and for 50s style tone cap connections, so the caps are connected to the output lugs on the volume pots.

I've noticed the volume pot roll-offs are very pronounced. Not much drop for the first 1/3rd of travel, then wallop! volume almost gone.

So the questions are:

1. Is this to be expected?
2. Are the independent volumes and or the 50s style tone wiring to blame?
3. Is there anything I can do, like linear pots, to get a better taper?
 
With independent volumes you have very little volume drop in the first half of the pot rotation, most of it occurs in the last half of rotation. That is pretty typical.

I have usually wired all my guitars with independent volumes, but one of my customers didn't like the vol drop the way it was so I just wired it dependent volumes. Now the majority of volume drop occurs in the first half of rotation. He's very happy now.

To each his own. you're usually happy with what you are happy with.
 
Thanks GD

I had wondered if I had effed something up, but if you're getting the same it must be a consequence of the independent volumes I guess.

I suppose I could try linear pots and see how I get on, but for now I think I'll leave things alone.
 
I can see the attractions of both: dependent, maybe more for on stage where one just wants to turn one knob to increase/ decrease overall volume; independent, more for the studio, where nuances could be more important than just blasting it out. I suppose that might be why Gretsch added a third, master, volume knob.
 
I finished the rewiring. CTS TAOT (10%) 500K pots, mid size 0.022 uF / 200 volt (yeah I know, but at least not 400 volt monsters) orange drops, genuine Switchcraft toggle switch, sheathed single conductor wire virtually throughout, and one of those dual contact output jacks. I put heat shrink over the wire braid to prevent unwanted shorts too.

I wired it for independent volumes, with the pickup hots going to the volume pot middle lugs and the outer lugs as the outputs to the switch.

I also connected the tone pots 50s style, correcting for the above. But I cheated, a little, by putting the caps between the middle lugs on their respective tone pots and their casings instead of between the volume and tone pot lugs. Those connections were made with cloth covered wire. It made soldering the caps in much easier, and it will be a lot easier to swap them out should I decide to try 0.015s instead of 0.022s.
 
I finished the rewiring. CTS TAOT (10%) 500K pots, mid size 0.022 uF / 200 volt (yeah I know, but at least not 400 volt monsters) orange drops, genuine Switchcraft toggle switch, sheathed single conductor wire virtually throughout, and one of those dual contact output jacks. I put heat shrink over the wire braid to prevent unwanted shorts too.

I wired it for independent volumes, with the pickup hots going to the volume pot middle lugs and the outer lugs as the outputs to the switch.

I also connected the tone pots 50s style, correcting for the above. But I cheated, a little, by putting the caps between the middle lugs on their respective tone pots and their casings instead of between the volume and tone pot lugs. Those connections were made with cloth covered wire. It made soldering the caps in much easier, and it will be a lot easier to swap them out should I decide to try 0.015s instead of 0.022s.


That's not "cheating", it's just another way to wire caps. In fact, that's the way I always do it. Anyway, I think you've done everything well and I also think you are correct about one way for live, another way for recording. But some people even like the 50's/independent for performing also. Whatever the customer likes, that's what he gets (within reason, of course).
 
Note to self.

The wife's busily collecting those little samples of wood flooring, about 8 inches square.

When she finally decides what floor she wants, the samples will make ideal templates for wiring harnesses. Just transfer the hole locations, drill holes, write on which guitar(s) each one is for, job done.
 
Perfect.

I use scraps of Masonite about the thickness of the guitar face. The use of templates for wiring the controls is a great procedure. Do most of the soldering outside of the guitar to reduce any risk of damage to the guitar.
 
Yeah. I used to use corrugated cardboard box cutoffs but I keep loosing them. Or the wife "looses them" for me...

For anyone reading this, take the knobs off, leave the pots in place, press the carboard down and voila, or take the pots out and mark through the holes with a pencil or pen. Assuming you leave a little slack in your wiring, always a good idea IMHO, you're golden. Just remember which way up the template should go.

It's not like I do this every day, either, but still.
 
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