Deathviper1777
New member
Is this really a good tremolo! Quality wise etc. I know the specs are synonymous with the OG but players out there how is your 1000 holding up?
Thanks
Thanks
So how decent is the Floyd Rose 1000??? Really.
- Thread starter Deathviper1777
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nexion218
New member
Re: So how decent is the Floyd Rose 1000??? Really.
Quality wise you won't find differences - unless you get a lemon, but I beleive its rare. I have one on my Pro Series Jackson, absolutely no complaints. I recently changes saddles on a Floyd Special to OG Germans and after having it side by side with the 1000 series, the only difference I could find that the German saddles are a bit more rounded at the edges and black paint holds up better than on the 1000 series. Otherwise no difference. Be not afraid of them. Lear how to maintain and setup properly and also do your homework on how it works exactly. That enables you to have realistic expectations and you won't feel chaeted when it doesn't do something that you'd expect it to do but the design itself doesn't allow it in the first place.
Quality wise you won't find differences - unless you get a lemon, but I beleive its rare. I have one on my Pro Series Jackson, absolutely no complaints. I recently changes saddles on a Floyd Special to OG Germans and after having it side by side with the 1000 series, the only difference I could find that the German saddles are a bit more rounded at the edges and black paint holds up better than on the 1000 series. Otherwise no difference. Be not afraid of them. Lear how to maintain and setup properly and also do your homework on how it works exactly. That enables you to have realistic expectations and you won't feel chaeted when it doesn't do something that you'd expect it to do but the design itself doesn't allow it in the first place.
Deathviper1777
New member
Re: So how decent is the Floyd Rose 1000??? Really.
Thanks everyone for your replies. I’m very familiar with Floyds but haven’t bought a Floyd equipped guitar in over 25 years. All of mine are the German models. I’m looking at the new Charvel San Dimas guitars with the 1000 series on them.
Thanks everyone for your replies. I’m very familiar with Floyds but haven’t bought a Floyd equipped guitar in over 25 years. All of mine are the German models. I’m looking at the new Charvel San Dimas guitars with the 1000 series on them.
Masta' C
Well-known member
Re: So how decent is the Floyd Rose 1000??? Really.
I'd still prefer a German-made version if I had the choice, but I have a couple guitars that came with the 1000 series from the factory and I have had zero issues. Never felt the need to "upgrade" them...they are solid trems
I'd still prefer a German-made version if I had the choice, but I have a couple guitars that came with the 1000 series from the factory and I have had zero issues. Never felt the need to "upgrade" them...they are solid trems
vel0c1ty
New member
Re: So how decent is the Floyd Rose 1000??? Really.
Bit off-topic: how's the fretwork on the Soloist? They look amazing but I'm really apprehensive about them being made in Indonesia. Maybe I have Ibanez to blame for that, lol
Bit off-topic: how's the fretwork on the Soloist? They look amazing but I'm really apprehensive about them being made in Indonesia. Maybe I have Ibanez to blame for that, lol
nexion218
New member
Re: So how decent is the Floyd Rose 1000??? Really.
You mean the Pro Series?
Or do you really mean the Soloist? Joking aside, the Soloist I have is an X series, got it second hand to try my hand at some light modding. But I have a Pro Series King V too. No sharp edges on either one, but - as you'd expect by the pricetag - the levelling is better on the Pro Series. Neither one was picture perfect right out of the box. I believe there was one high spot on the Pro, but on the X series there were some complete frets that were high. So little work needed on the X series, minimal issue with the Pro. The Pro might've gone unnoticed for someone who prefers a bit higher action than I do. I was able to get it into the range of the USA factory spec range (1,5 mm on low E, around 1mm high E @12th fret with =<0,20 mm relief). The X series is slightly out of that range. I love the Pro and even the X series grew on me after some modding and work. I guess I'll love that too when my Black Winter set arrives!
Structurally and material-wise, I'd say the 1000+ USD Indos are easily on par with the USA stuff. It's the attention to - mostly minor and/or cosmetic - details that sets them apart. But in my book those are not worth the 2 to 6 grand upcharge. Even if the fretjob was complete utter shyte, for 2-300 USD you get a complete refret with stainless steel frets and you are still below 2 grand in total. One day it would be cool to have a "Made in USA" logo on the headstock but they're asking stupid money for it. I simply refuse to pay, say, 4 grand for something that most probably doesn't cost a cent over 1000 USD for these huge companies.
You mean the Pro Series?
Or do you really mean the Soloist? Joking aside, the Soloist I have is an X series, got it second hand to try my hand at some light modding. But I have a Pro Series King V too. No sharp edges on either one, but - as you'd expect by the pricetag - the levelling is better on the Pro Series. Neither one was picture perfect right out of the box. I believe there was one high spot on the Pro, but on the X series there were some complete frets that were high. So little work needed on the X series, minimal issue with the Pro. The Pro might've gone unnoticed for someone who prefers a bit higher action than I do. I was able to get it into the range of the USA factory spec range (1,5 mm on low E, around 1mm high E @12th fret with =<0,20 mm relief). The X series is slightly out of that range. I love the Pro and even the X series grew on me after some modding and work. I guess I'll love that too when my Black Winter set arrives! Structurally and material-wise, I'd say the 1000+ USD Indos are easily on par with the USA stuff. It's the attention to - mostly minor and/or cosmetic - details that sets them apart. But in my book those are not worth the 2 to 6 grand upcharge. Even if the fretjob was complete utter shyte, for 2-300 USD you get a complete refret with stainless steel frets and you are still below 2 grand in total. One day it would be cool to have a "Made in USA" logo on the headstock but they're asking stupid money for it. I simply refuse to pay, say, 4 grand for something that most probably doesn't cost a cent over 1000 USD for these huge companies.
vel0c1ty
New member
Re: So how decent is the Floyd Rose 1000??? Really.
Wow, thanks for the in-depth response! I currently have a SLX with some dead spots high up the fretboard, even with 3mm - 4mm action and 0.5mm relief. Oh well, it's still easy to play so I'm happy.
On the topic of the Floyd Special, has yours had the issue of strings slipping out? I own two, one from Amazon and one that came with the SLX, and both have grooves worn into the string blocks that results in the e and B strings just falling out no matter how hard I screw them in.
I've replaced both with the Gotoh Floyd and have had no problems since.
Should I expect to do the same with the Pro Soloist?
You mean the Pro Series?
Structurally and material-wise, I'd say the 1000+ USD Indos are easily on par with the USA stuff. It's the attention to - mostly minor and/or cosmetic - details that sets them apart. But in my book those are not worth the 2 to 6 grand upcharge. Even if the fretjob was complete utter shyte, for 2-300 USD you get a complete refret with stainless steel frets and you are still below 2 grand in total. One day it would be cool to have a "Made in USA" logo on the headstock but they're asking stupid money for it. I simply refuse to pay, say, 4 grand for something that most probably doesn't cost a cent over 1000 USD for these huge companies.
Wow, thanks for the in-depth response! I currently have a SLX with some dead spots high up the fretboard, even with 3mm - 4mm action and 0.5mm relief. Oh well, it's still easy to play so I'm happy.
On the topic of the Floyd Special, has yours had the issue of strings slipping out? I own two, one from Amazon and one that came with the SLX, and both have grooves worn into the string blocks that results in the e and B strings just falling out no matter how hard I screw them in.
I've replaced both with the Gotoh Floyd and have had no problems since.
Should I expect to do the same with the Pro Soloist?
nexion218
New member
Re: So how decent is the Floyd Rose 1000??? Really.
Sure thing, I came here to have discussions!
First thing I did to the SLX was to buy a set of German saddles. They were in atrocious state.
The previous owner kept clamping down the strings with all his might resulting in deeper grooves each and every time. In fact the small blocks themselves were quite intact, since the smallest resistance was presented by the zinc alloy saddles. Thus far I had absolutely no problem with the FR-1000 on the Pro Series guitar. That said, I try to do everything to keep it in good condition: when I restring, after cutting the ballends, I use a few strokes of sandpaper on the cutting surface to remove any burrs resulting from the cutting in order to prevent them from denting in the saddles or the block. From time and again I wipe the inside of the saddle - especially where the strings ride - with some PTFE/teflon based lubricant to reduce friction. Same goes for the knife edges/pivot points. I also wipe down gunk and sweat from the bridge with a silicone based lubricant to prevent moisture getting into the crevices of the thing. Not soaking it, just a light dab with a piece of papertowel.
But even if the saddles should fail, a new set of German-made is around 90 USD, not the end of the world. A set of blocks is well under 10 USD, so... And I believe even the German ones will fail, that is just the nature of things and a question of time. Also, I once got an advice from one of the most well respected luthiers in my country regarding the clamping process when stringing the Floyd: never clamp down on the string in one go. Do it fingertight, wait a little (I usually thred the string through the nut and wind it on the post) and then tighten a bit again. The reason is that this way with the first go, you let the string flatten a bit under pressure and then clamp it down for good in the second go. If you do not let the strings flatten under pressure, then you're pushing it into the block and saddles with their full round profile, the force is spread on a smaller surface blabla.. you get my drift. Quite simple physics actually but I never thought of it before this guy told me. This method makes even the FR Specials usable for way longer time. You most probably killed yours with the excess force - I didthe same with my first Floyd.
So in short, no, you shouldn't expect it. Just take good care of it and don't overtighten.
Sure thing, I came here to have discussions!
First thing I did to the SLX was to buy a set of German saddles. They were in atrocious state.
The previous owner kept clamping down the strings with all his might resulting in deeper grooves each and every time. In fact the small blocks themselves were quite intact, since the smallest resistance was presented by the zinc alloy saddles. Thus far I had absolutely no problem with the FR-1000 on the Pro Series guitar. That said, I try to do everything to keep it in good condition: when I restring, after cutting the ballends, I use a few strokes of sandpaper on the cutting surface to remove any burrs resulting from the cutting in order to prevent them from denting in the saddles or the block. From time and again I wipe the inside of the saddle - especially where the strings ride - with some PTFE/teflon based lubricant to reduce friction. Same goes for the knife edges/pivot points. I also wipe down gunk and sweat from the bridge with a silicone based lubricant to prevent moisture getting into the crevices of the thing. Not soaking it, just a light dab with a piece of papertowel. But even if the saddles should fail, a new set of German-made is around 90 USD, not the end of the world. A set of blocks is well under 10 USD, so... And I believe even the German ones will fail, that is just the nature of things and a question of time. Also, I once got an advice from one of the most well respected luthiers in my country regarding the clamping process when stringing the Floyd: never clamp down on the string in one go. Do it fingertight, wait a little (I usually thred the string through the nut and wind it on the post) and then tighten a bit again. The reason is that this way with the first go, you let the string flatten a bit under pressure and then clamp it down for good in the second go. If you do not let the strings flatten under pressure, then you're pushing it into the block and saddles with their full round profile, the force is spread on a smaller surface blabla.. you get my drift. Quite simple physics actually but I never thought of it before this guy told me.
This method makes even the FR Specials usable for way longer time. You most probably killed yours with the excess force - I didthe same with my first Floyd. So in short, no, you shouldn't expect it. Just take good care of it and don't overtighten.
vel0c1ty
New member
Re: So how decent is the Floyd Rose 1000??? Really.
Thanks for the information!
Sure thing, I came here to have discussions!
First thing I did to the SLX was to buy a set of German saddles. They were in atrocious state.
But even if the saddles should fail, a new set of German-made is around 90 USD, not the end of the world. A set of blocks is well under 10 USD, so... And I believe even the German ones will fail, that is just the nature of things and a question of time. Also, I once got an advice from one of the most well respected luthiers in my country regarding the clamping process when stringing the Floyd: never clamp down on the string in one go. Do it fingertight, wait a little (I usually thred the string through the nut and wind it on the post) and then tighten a bit again. The reason is that this way with the first go, you let the string flatten a bit under pressure and then clamp it down for good in the second go. If you do not let the strings flatten under pressure, then you're pushing it into the block and saddles with their full round profile, the force is spread on a smaller surface blabla.. you get my drift. Quite simple physics actually but I never thought of it before this guy told me.
So in short, no, you shouldn't expect it. Just take good care of it and don't overtighten.
Thanks for the information!
Re: So how decent is the Floyd Rose 1000??? Really.
I know this is a 11 day old thread, but I had the opportunity to compare one of my German FR Originals with the FRT 1000 and an EVH branded model last night. The differences I could see were minor. The screws for the saddles and the clamping blocks on the German made had grade quality marks on them and the other two do not. The fine tuner screw threads seem to be a little smoother throughout the course of travel on the German version. The FRT 1000 was out of a Charvel San Dimas, the EVH was out of one of my USA signature models. Both of those share the same hardware and have the same tool marks where visible. I've not had an issue with any of them. My opinion is they are of the same quality.
As a side note, I have another guitar with a FR Special (marked special) on it. There is a notable difference in quality in the hardware and saddles. It is obviously lower quality and I had some string slippage issues with it brand new out of the box. I believe it was due to soft metal in the clamping blocks. Also, the spring block on the bottom of the special is some kind of cast alloy.
I know this is a 11 day old thread, but I had the opportunity to compare one of my German FR Originals with the FRT 1000 and an EVH branded model last night. The differences I could see were minor. The screws for the saddles and the clamping blocks on the German made had grade quality marks on them and the other two do not. The fine tuner screw threads seem to be a little smoother throughout the course of travel on the German version. The FRT 1000 was out of a Charvel San Dimas, the EVH was out of one of my USA signature models. Both of those share the same hardware and have the same tool marks where visible. I've not had an issue with any of them. My opinion is they are of the same quality.
As a side note, I have another guitar with a FR Special (marked special) on it. There is a notable difference in quality in the hardware and saddles. It is obviously lower quality and I had some string slippage issues with it brand new out of the box. I believe it was due to soft metal in the clamping blocks. Also, the spring block on the bottom of the special is some kind of cast alloy.
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