Soldering 101 Pictures

[GuitarDoc]

So, in response to those of you who wanted to see pictures of good solder joints vs cold solder joints...

I see a lot of solder joints like the one at the pointer, but occasionally some like the other joints too. These are cold joints. Don't do it.
When you combine several thick wires onto the back of a pot, all of that metal (including the massive amount of solder) has to be heated. It's too much for an iron less than 40 watts When you do this you have a tendency to add more solder to make sure that it is strong. Unfortunately that extra solder acts as an additional heat sink pulling the heat away from the actual joint/connection. The more solder you add, the worse the joint looks, and the greater the tendency to add even more solder to "fix" the poor joint. It's a domino effect. This is just compounding the problem, not making it better. Time to get out the solder wick or solder sucker. Also note that there is about 10 times the solder needed on that lug. Any more solder and it will be flowing inside the pot and you will be needing to replace it.





The arrow shows how thin solder can get...like "water". It's twice the diameter as the blob inside it. It is created by heating the pot and letting the pot heat/melt the solder onto it.





You don't ever need any more solder than this to make a good physical as well as electrical connection.




But all of these joints are good.




Soldering is where you have the opportunity to prove the old adage..."less is more".

 

[Mincer]

Re: Soldering 101 Pictures

Great tutorial! Thanks!

 

[BlakeC27]

Re: Soldering 101 Pictures

Pots can be tricky to solder if your soldering iron isn't up to the task as stated. A little flux also helps matters.

 

[GuitarDoc]

Re: Soldering 101 Pictures

I always use flux when I anticipate a problem with the solder sticking (old parts, oxidation present). Just be sure NOT to use acid flux. ONLY use rosin flux. But most of the time I have no problems if I don't use any flux.

 

[B2D]

Re: Soldering 101 Pictures

I always have trouble getting solder to stick to the back of a brand new pot. I've heard a little sandpaper can help but no such luck for me. Any tips on making that part of the job easier?

Excellent thread btw. great pics.

 

[BlakeC27]

Re: Soldering 101 Pictures

I always have trouble getting solder to stick to the back of a brand new pot. I've heard a little sandpaper can help but no such luck for me. Any tips on making that part of the job easier?

Excellent thread btw. great pics.

What wattage is your soldering iron? In his post, Guitar Doc recommends at least a 40 watt soldering iron. The back of the pot will act as a heatsink sucking up all of the heat a lower wattage can dish out before the melting point of the solder can be reached.

 

[BlakeC27]

Re: Soldering 101 Pictures

I always use flux when I anticipate a problem with the solder sticking (old parts, oxidation present). Just be sure NOT to use acid flux. ONLY use rosin flux. But most of the time I have no problems if I don't use any flux.

Excellent tips.

 

[Dave Locher]

Re: Soldering 101 Pictures

Why no acid flux? I have no idea if mine is acid or rosin.

 

[formula73]

Re: Soldering 101 Pictures

For heavier ground connections, like old school braided shielded wire, I use a 250w gun. Less than a second later, no matter if it’s outside in a blizzard, I have a great solder without even getting the rest of the casing warm.





NOT good, however, for terminals.

 

[Cdwillis]

Re: Soldering 101 Pictures

I have got to invest in a decent soldering iron. My iron is only 30 watts, so it feels impossible to use on the back of pots. On my SG that I put new electronics in, I knew it was kind of rough, but I didn't realize how bad until I saw those nice pools of solder on the back of GuitarDoc's pots.

 

[formula73]

Re: Soldering 101 Pictures

I have got to invest in a decent soldering iron. My iron is only 30 watts, so it feels impossible to use on the back of pots. On my SG that I put new electronics in, I knew it was kind of rough, but I didn't realize how bad until I saw those nice pools of solder on the back of GuitarDoc's pots.

Stupid question: do you keep the tip clean and tinned? Wipe on a wet sponge during use often?

 

[GuitarDoc]

Re: Soldering 101 Pictures

Why no acid flux? I have no idea if mine is acid or rosin.

Acid flux is corrosive and will "eat away" at thin wires, etc. You don't want that with electronics.

I use a paste flux of zinc chloride which works great. It is a 3 ounce tube which I have been using for 20 years and it still looks full. By my calculations, it should last another 300 years. Obviously you don't need much.

Read the ingredients label. It should say if it is an acid flux.

 

[GuitarDoc]

Re: Soldering 101 Pictures

For $3.00, this should last you about 10 lifetimes.

https://www.amazon.com/22101-Regula...keywords=soldering+flux&qid=1570371082&sr=8-5

You should never run out of flux in your lifetime even with this 1 ounce jar:

https://www.amazon.com/Delcast-Rosi...ds=soldering+flux&qid=1570371082&sr=8-34&th=1

The damp sponge is effective at cleaning your iron tip, but it cools down the tip a lot. I much prefer to use this type of tip cleaner:

https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Ir...eywords=soldering+flux&qid=1570371082&sr=8-36

 

[Cdwillis]

Re: Soldering 101 Pictures

Stupid question: do you keep the tip clean and tinned? Wipe on a wet sponge during use often?

I keep the tip tinned, but usually only clean it afterwards. The iron has a pointy tips and they don't seem transfer heat as well as a fatter chisel tip.

 

[B2D]

Re: Soldering 101 Pictures

What wattage is your soldering iron? In his post, Guitar Doc recommends at least a 40 watt soldering iron. The back of the pot will act as a heatsink sucking up all of the heat a lower wattage can dish out before the melting point of the solder can be reached.

I used to use a 25W iron. I just picked up a new 40W iron.

 

[formula73]

Re: Soldering 101 Pictures

I keep the tip tinned, but usually only clean it afterwards. The iron has a pointy tips and they don't seem transfer heat as well as a fatter chisel tip.

I wipe the tip after, then again just before, every joint I make. That’s why ‘solder stations’ like Weller have trays for a wet sponge. It doesn’t take long for the tip to oxidize when it’s hot. The end of the tip should always be shiny and clean before every joint.