Soldering 101

mule

New member
****** I need to learn how to solder finally. And also how to wire pickups to pots, switch and jack. So all you experts out there, I would appreciate your advice.

What do I need to buy?
How much should I expect to spend?
Where should I buy everything?
What are all the tips, tricks, secrets and techniques I should know?

Thanx!
 
Re: Soldering 101

Guitar soldering is all pretty simple soldering.

Just get a Radio Shack 15/30w iron kit. It will come with a stand and a sponge and everything you will need. Get a few nice pointy tips.

Soldering is really complex to get into, but the basics:

Always keep the solder tip well tinned
Don't heat things too long
Use the heat to lead the solder where you want it to go
Heat always moves to the area with less energy potential

Good luck.
 
Re: Soldering 101

One of my big questions is: What is too long? How do you know when it's time to apply the solder?
 
Re: Soldering 101

You could probably walk into a radioshack and walk out with all you need for about 15 bucks.

Guitar electronics are finer detail work so a lower wattage iron is in order. Probably 25 watts or under. I use a thin tip. Most sets will come with multiple tips and solder. I usually end up buying a thiner solder than what the kits come with. I also use a tip tinner and dip my iron tip in it from time to time to keep it clean.
 
Re: Soldering 101

http://store.curiousinventor.com/guides/How_to_Solder

^^This video is a good basic intro there are also some on instructables.com....but watching soldering videos definitely turns you into a nerd:22:

so a lower wattage iron is in order. Probably 25 watts or under.
^True you can make those work but, actually a higher wattage iron is more in order since it heats the area and allows you to make the connection quicker ....Alot of people who "fry pots" are using a lower wattage iron and holding it there to long to get the the connection heated up and damaging the pot in the process......

The $15 route route might be better to learn with but either way buy some cheap pots on ebay and practice.....

If you do decide to spend a little more on an iron, ebay has some "knockoff" Adjustable 50-60w Soldering Stations for around $35....
 
Re: Soldering 101

I do agree that soldering guitars is pretty basic, but I would recommend buying a good soldering iron Something like a Weller soldering station. Being able to adjust the temperature of the iron will be helpfull if you are going to solder PC boards and very soft items. These are the type of items that you really don't want to over heat with the iron. That could ruin the board.

http://www.google.com/products/cata...og_result&ct=result&resnum=3&ved=0CEEQ8wIwAg#
 
Re: Soldering 101

Here is my step by step on how to solder a wire to post. This will give you an idea of what to do from a soldering iron sitting cold to having the wire firmly soldered on the post (of whatever electronic piece it may be; a pot, a switch, etc)

- plug in your iron and let it warm up.
- while the iron is warming up, take your solder sponge and go and get it wet. It doesn't have to be dripping wet, but wet enough so that it will stay damp for some time)
- to test your iron to see if it is hot enough to start soldering: first put it to the sponge to see if it makes a hiss, then put it to your solder and the solder should liquify within 3 seconds. If the solder does not liquify, let the iron warm up for a while longer.

--Side Note: To tin your iron for the first time; put the iron to your solder and melt a very large amount of solder onto the tip of the iron. Let the glob of solder melt around the tip while you turn the iron a full rotation. Then put the iron to the sponge to smooth out the tip and clean off any jagged or sharp piece of slag on the end. You may have to do this 2-3 times before the tip is really tinned all the way around. A well tinned tip will REALLY help you direct and flow the solder.

- strip a very small section of wire with a nice sharp set of strippers.
- twist the end of the bare wire until it is nice and tightly wound.
- once your iron is nice and hot you can proceed to tin the wire. You will use put the bare wire, solder, and iron all together so they are all toughing one point. The wire should start sucking in solder then. When the solder begins to flow into the wire, use the iron to move to the other side of the wire and guide the solder throughout the wire. Make sure the whole section of bare wire is covered in solder for the best results.
- now bend the section of tinned wire into a "C" shape so that it can hook around the post you will be soldering it to.
- hook the tinned wired around the post and hold it there. With your other hand take the iron and get a moderate amount of solder on the tip.
- touch the solder (on the tip of the iron) to the joint where the tinned wire meets the post. It will suck into that intersection, and once it does, remove your soldering iron from the intersection. Hold the wire there for a bit to let it cool somewhat. After about 5 seconds, check your solder point to make sure it is firm and secure.

There is an extremely brief step by step on how I do my solder jobs. I hope that helps a bit. I probably missed some things, but I hope it doesn't leave you too confused. Good soldering takes a lot of practice and learning to get good at it.
 
Re: Soldering 101

+1 to everything thats been said

use rosin core solder, usually the thinner is easier to work with.
ventilate your working area to avoid the solder fumes.
 
Re: Soldering 101

Rosin core 60/40. (or is it 40/60???)

You really don't need to keep the iron on things for too long. too long would be like say, 5-7 seconds. You don't want it to melt, you just want the solder to.

It's easy after you get some practice.
 
Re: Soldering 101

Tips from Stew Mac http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/Electronics/Pickup_building/w101-soldering.html

Soldering
Do's and don'ts for successful wiring

This photo illustrates the wrong way to wire a guitar! Thanks to Les Schatten for forwarding this amazing wiring disaster that came into his shop in Kitchener, Ontario, Canada.

w101_soldering01.gif


Before you start soldering, you need to get a feel for it. It's 85% technique; 15% materials and equipment.


You don't have to spend a bunch of money on soldering equipment for a successful job. High-priced soldering irons are designed for professionals who use them daily. An inexpensive 40-watt soldering pencil will do just fine. The more experienced you are with your soldering pencil, the better your wiring project will turn out.

Don't blow on a solder joint to make it harden faster. This can cause air pockets within the joint that can corrode or loosen it over time—a “cold solder joint.”

Don't strip too much insulation from a wire, unless you want a potential troubleshooting nightmare. Just expose enough wire for soldering, usually 1/16" to 1/8". Too much exposed wire can contact ground wires, shielded pickup wires, or “hot” wires.

Do use rosin-core solder! Standard 60/40 rosin-core is best, and we prefer smaller .032"-.062" diameters for guitar wiring.

Do “tin” the wire and the soldering points before soldering the joint. This doesn't mean applying a huge glob of solder; just a very thin pre-coating will do.

Do apply heat to the connection first, then apply the solder and let it flow over the joint. This also helps prevent cold solder joints.

Do "tin" a new tip. When breaking in a new soldering iron or tip, tin the tip as soon as it gets hot enough to melt the solder for the first time. Flow the solder over the contact surfaces of the tip, and let it set for about ten seconds or so. Wipe the excess onto a damp sponge and apply more solder. Repeat this process several times during the first few minutes of its life, and your soldering tip will last longer and conduct heat better.

Do use a soldering stand to hold your soldering iron, so you won't burn yourself or your guitar. A soldering stand usually has a sponge holder for cleaning the tip.

Do plan the wiring ahead of time, to avoid soldering under an existing wire. Be sure the wires are long enough to allow removal of the pickguard or control plate for inspection without desoldering.

If you have more questions, read Donald Brosnac's Guitar Electronics For Musicians. It's a great source for learning the basics, with information about pickups, how volume and tone circuits work, and more advanced topics
 
Re: Soldering 101

There's no better teacher than experience. A good way to practice is to grab a chunk of wood, hammer in a few finishing nails part of the way through (so they're sticking up half an inch or so) and soldering some wires between them. That way you will get your soldering technique down without ruining any electronics.
 
Re: Soldering 101

Lots of good tips here.

I would also like to recommend getting a good soldering iron with easy to find and easy to replace tips. As a novice, I seemed to go thru a tip about every 3 to 4 projects. I'm probably doing something wrong, but thats part of the learning curve for me. Luckily, I was able to find replacement tips at my local Sears.
 
Re: Soldering 101

I definitely agree that soldering is 85% technique and 15% equipment. I would disagree with the suggestions for the wattage of the iron, however. The more wattage the better, 40+ watts. If you are trying to heat a large piece of metal (back of a pot, or especially a pickup base plate and nickel cover) you need a lot of heat for a short period of time. A smaller amount of heat over a longer period of time will fry a pot and destroy a pup.
 
Re: Soldering 101

Lots of good tips here.

I would also like to recommend getting a good soldering iron with easy to find and easy to replace tips. As a novice, I seemed to go thru a tip about every 3 to 4 projects. I'm probably doing something wrong, but thats part of the learning curve for me. Luckily, I was able to find replacement tips at my local Sears.

I usually go through one tip every project, but then again my projects seem to involve building a dozen pedals at once - somewhere close to 2,000 solder joints. :)
 
Re: Soldering 101

The single best helper for soldering is liquid flux. Dip the wire in it or a drop on the pot case makes the heat transfer from the iron lightning quick. No more holding the iron on the pot baking the internals trying to get enough heat into the surface so the solder flows. No more cold joints or roasted pots.

I've had good luck with flux paste or jelly as well.


2nd would be a clean & tinned tip.
 
Re: Soldering 101

You could probably walk into a radioshack and walk out with all you need for about 15 bucks.

Guitar electronics are finer detail work so a lower wattage iron is in order. Probably 25 watts or under. I use a thin tip. Most sets will come with multiple tips and solder. I usually end up buying a thiner solder than what the kits come with. I also use a tip tinner and dip my iron tip in it from time to time to keep it clean.

O_o..... you need a higher wattage iron to do guitar work. as has been said in this thread, if you use a lower wattage iron you have to keep in contact with the parts longer to heat the solder, which means more contact heat and fried pots and pickups. higher wattage means more concentrated heat for just the spot the solder is going on, and faster melting time.

i've actually got two 40w weller irons with two different tips($18 each @lowes), a stand($8 @radioshack), an extra fine and a fine roll of 60/40 solder($4 each @RS), three 50ft rolls of wire($~6@RS), wire cutters that we had laying around, and a pair of clippers. sandpaper helps too if you've got a pot that's being difficult with laying some solder on the back, but not necessary.

learning to do it is mostly a trial and error type of thing, so you definitely don't want to go tearing apart your #1 and put jimmy page wiring in it or anything crazy like that the first time you try soldering. after a few times though it becomes second nature.
 
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