Squier Mods

Lucius Paisley

Lucius Paisley

New member
Bought a pawn shop Squier Affinity to find, as usual, there was an issue that meant I'm forced to modify it. It would have been as simple as replacing a pot, but I found a loaded pickguard for it on Reverb from a Squier Standard and have decided to go with that - it's a left handed for left handed swap, necessity dictates, etc.

I'm not exactly sure what the results of this endeavour will be because I don't have a familiarity with how each guitar sounds, agathis vs alder, and all that. I have read that alder and alnico combine for a "brighter" sound - whatever the hell that means - can anybody tell me what I can expect?

Also, looking around at different upgrades, there are many different thoughts as to what should be done to make a Squier "play" better. But all I'm really interested in is decent tuning, so besides locking tuners, is there anything else I should do?
 
A good setup with a TUSQ or bone nut is an improvement over plastic, and pickup swaps are a whole world of 'better' on those guitars. Start with the inexpensive stuff like tuners, and maybe saddles, and upgrade it over time...I am sure it will be a fun instrument to play.
 
Drag a razor across the fretboard edge and it will take the wood down but not the fret. That will rough it out in a rounder shape. Then drag 600 sandpaper over it and that will make it smoothly round. If there's finish you'd have to tape things off, but a lot of squiers haver unfinished necks. There's not really a point to all that tho if ur gonna leave the fret ends all jagged.
 
Demanic said:
How exactly does one roll the fretboard edges?

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Click to expand...

Couple of ways

First as the name implies a piece of thick flat steel
Set it on its side , between the frets
Rock it back and forth compressing the wood
Rolling it

Some folks ain't that patient and use sand paper

A sponge sand paper block
Buff the fret ends as well as you rub it up and down both sides of the neck

Some people are super impatient
And use a file

I prefer to use an Emory board
And just buff up and back between the frets

It gives the fretboard those soft edges like vintage ones get from tons of play

If it's bound
Use a razor blade to scrape it
Hold the razor straight up don't try to cut into the binding. You'll garf it up
You are scraping like trying to remove paint or finish



I can't believe this is the part of the post you have questions about
 
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ehdwuld said:
Couple of ways

First as the name implies a piece of thick flat steel
Set it on its side , between the frets
Rock it back and forth compressing the wood
Rolling it

Some folks ain't that patient and use sand paper

A sponge sand paper block
Buff the fret ends as well as you rub it up and down both sides of the neck

Some people are super impatient
And use a file

I prefer to use an Emory board
And just buff up and back between the frets

It gives the fretboard those soft edges like vintage ones get from tons of play

If it's bound
Use a razor blade to scrape it
Hold the razor straight up don't try to cut into the binding. You'll garf it up
You are scraping like trying to remove paint or finish



I can't believe this is the part of the post you have questions about
Click to expand...
Why? I've never done it before. Some of the stuff seems familiar. I just wanted a hint before I started off on my own.

Sent from my SM-A115A using Tapatalk
 
ehdwuld said:
Couple of ways

First as the name implies a piece of thick flat steel
Set it on its side , between the frets
Rock it back and forth compressing the wood
Rolling it

Some folks ain't that patient and use sand paper

A sponge sand paper block
Buff the fret ends as well as you rub it up and down both sides of the neck

Some people are super impatient
And use a file

I prefer to use an Emory board
And just buff up and back between the frets

It gives the fretboard those soft edges like vintage ones get from tons of play

If it's bound
Use a razor blade to scrape it
Hold the razor straight up don't try to cut into the binding. You'll garf it up
You are scraping like trying to remove paint or finish



I can't believe this is the part of the post you have questions about
Click to expand...

This is something I've never done either, so I appreciate the description.
 
I have sponsored a guitar club at the schools I have worked at for decades. I have worked on hundreds of cheap budget guitars students have been using over those years. I would personally not waste time modifying an Affinity line Squier. I have seen too many develop serious problems after just a couple of years, and I have never seen one I thought was really worth it after the mods. If it were a Squier Standard, or Vintage Modified line, I would say invest some money to mod it. An Affinity line Squier, not unless it is the exception to the rule I have seen hold true WAY too many times over the years.
 
I think that mine might be that exception. But then, it was made in '96 as far as I can tell. And I'm only into it for 8 bucks and some change. It sounds great and the frets barely scratch my skin now

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The only issue I've had with the less expensive Squires
is the thinner body
Other than that it is exactly the same spec as its Fender brethren
Pocket
Neck heel
Scale

Practice mods on the cheap ones

Ignore the negativity

Make it special
 
Shielding and grounding the pickguard and cavities is also helpful to reduce noise. You can use copper tape, aluminum flashing tape, or even spray adhesive and aluminum foil.
 
Well, it's back. Affinity body, Squier Standard guts (body needed routing to make it fit), staggered poles, new output jack.

I had a fiddle with it once I got it home, chimey with the right settings, not overly bright, and just really comfortable to play.

I almost thought they'd wired it wrong, but no, it's volume, tone - neck, then tone - middle, and not tone - middle, THEN tone - neck.

I don't know why I thought that, it just seemed the logical way. Something to get used to.

I should've got one of these years ago.

f6finished.jpg
 
Bad picture
could you flip it right and retake it

Is that a 2 tone or three

Black guard would set it off


Tortoise
Mmmm yeah tortoise
 
g7.jpg

Looking a 2-tones, it's definitely a 3.

I've had issues with pg replacements before - right size, wrong screw placement - so stays for now.
 
I've used those sanding sponges on my necks. Three of my four necks are Roasted Maple and the other is Rosewood so no finish is on them which makes it easy.. I took a, 330 grit I believe' sponge and ran it up and down the neck edges and it does a great job on the fret ends at the same time. The frets look very nicely rounded on the ends, smooth , and the neck is lightly rolled..
10 minutes and its done.. Sure you need to pay attention to what you are doing but it is a relatively simple process.
Would work the same on your Rosewood board ...
Click image for larger version Name: IMG_0472.JPG Views: 0 Size: 79.4 KB ID: 6035065Frets pictured are actually Gold EVO 6105's
click to enlarge
 
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Get some contact paper from Walmart
cover it and trim the same one

You could try several looks until you settle
 
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