Staggered Versus Non-Staggered Tuners

'59

Active member
I've got a Strat and I think that there are some tuning issues arising from the b and e strings rubbing on the string tree. Would staggered tuners improve this as well as my tuning in general with prolonged whammy use? My tuning isn't bad as is, but it's always nice to get better.


And what brands could you point me to? I've got a MIM Fender Standard. Edit: Are there any models that have all the posts the same length but the holes in different spots?
 
Re: Staggered Versus Non-Staggered Tuners

Gotoh makes some nice staggered-post tuners. Whether or not you'll be able to entirely ditch the string tree(s) it's difficult to say.

Before going too far in that direction, make sure that the nut is properly cut and lubricated. A well cut TUSQ-XL nut will probably be more helpful in resolving tuning issues than staggered-post tuners.
 
Re: Staggered Versus Non-Staggered Tuners

Also, if you get staggered tuners, they aren't there to replace the string trees, they are there to supplement it. You might also look into a roller tree to reduce friction.
 
Re: Staggered Versus Non-Staggered Tuners

Or since your looking to replace tuners, you could just get lockers and ditch the string tree.
 
Re: Staggered Versus Non-Staggered Tuners

Or since your looking to replace tuners, you could just get lockers and ditch the string tree.

The purpose of the string tree is to provide a down angle behind the nut to keep the strings from buzzing in their nut slots. You'd still need it, even if you had locking tuners.

My suggestion to OP, raise your string tree a bit - you want just enough angle to keep the string from buzzing, not enough to cause friction when the string moves.
 
Re: Staggered Versus Non-Staggered Tuners

On most strats
Even staggered tuners need a tree on the high E and B
A tusq tree works
 
Re: Staggered Versus Non-Staggered Tuners

Some Chapstick on the underside of that tree will help.
 
Re: Staggered Versus Non-Staggered Tuners

^ Like these guys said, lubricate all the moving parts, including where the strings are rubbing. I use graphite courtesy of a #2 pencil.

Be sure to hit all the friction points on the bridge while you're at it.
 
Re: Staggered Versus Non-Staggered Tuners

The purpose of the string tree is to provide a down angle behind the nut to keep the strings from buzzing in their nut slots. You'd still need it, even if you had locking tuners.

My suggestion to OP, raise your string tree a bit - you want just enough angle to keep the string from buzzing, not enough to cause friction when the string moves.

Works for me. No buzzing or any other trouble. Except that it is now possible to drop the high e outside the fretboard if digging too hard. I have light touch though, so it's no problem at all.

Ditching the string trees improved tone quite significantly: Plain strings got much airier and smoother tone and little more sustain. Not to mention that I can now do almost anything with standard strat trem without going out-of-tune.
 
Re: Staggered Versus Non-Staggered Tuners

I've got a Strat with two string trees and I can most do anything with the two point tremolo I have on it. A good string tree should cause no tuning issues. The only reason they are there is so that your guitar won't sound like a gosh darn sitar when unplugged.
 
Re: Staggered Versus Non-Staggered Tuners

How would you get significantly "airier" tone by removing a string tree? You still have string contact at the nut on open strings and the fret on fretted notes. Not trying to be argumentative but I see these comments all the time regarding the nut (nut materials) and, sometimes, the string tree and I just don't get it. Physics is all but lost on me so I guess I'm just missing something.
 
Re: Staggered Versus Non-Staggered Tuners

I've replaced string trees with Graph Tech ones made from graphite. Now they function properly, I don't have to change tuners, and problem solved.
 
Re: Staggered Versus Non-Staggered Tuners

I have a Strat Deluxe with staggered lockers/LSR. No string trees from the factory, no issues. I have one guitar I run without a tree and non-staggered tuners (it used to have staggered lockers.) No issue with the staggered tuners before, but now the high E pops out if I bend in an aggressive way. Really don't want to drill for a tree so I'll probably grab some staggered lockers again.
 
Re: Staggered Versus Non-Staggered Tuners

How would you get significantly "airier" tone by removing a string tree? You still have string contact at the nut on open strings and the fret on fretted notes. Not trying to be argumentative but I see these comments all the time regarding the nut (nut materials) and, sometimes, the string tree and I just don't get it. Physics is all but lost on me so I guess I'm just missing something.

Well, I'm not particularly learned in physics either.

Considering the lack of string tree: String behind the nut is the most vibrating part of the guitar outside the actual string lenght. Dividing the lenght in half string tree moves the resonance of that part of strings higher.

Without string tree I think it's feedbacking more of the vibration back to strings at lower frequency.
 
Re: Staggered Versus Non-Staggered Tuners

What the tree does is prevent the little bit past the nut from becoming overly sympathetic with the rest of the string.
 
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