Strap-locks..
- Thread starter CoryXC
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benji657
Guest
midnite_man
New member
Re: Strap-locks..
"Loctite Blue" ?? With all due respect, you may want to just tighten 'em as much as you can if you go with Schallers. Guitar straps do wear out eventually, and you wouldn't want the threads on the strap-locks all goobered up with loctite, IMHO. If you do a lot of giggin' the hole/slots in your strap that you run your locks through will eventually wear out no matter what.
You may want to consider Dunlop Strap-Locks which use a "C" snap-ring with a big washer that comes with 'em to secure the lock in lieu of a threaded fastener-type like the Schaller. I use 'em both on my guitars.
Just my $.02 worth.
....Bob
Wattage said:
"Loctite Blue" ?? With all due respect, you may want to just tighten 'em as much as you can if you go with Schallers. Guitar straps do wear out eventually, and you wouldn't want the threads on the strap-locks all goobered up with loctite, IMHO. If you do a lot of giggin' the hole/slots in your strap that you run your locks through will eventually wear out no matter what.
You may want to consider Dunlop Strap-Locks which use a "C" snap-ring with a big washer that comes with 'em to secure the lock in lieu of a threaded fastener-type like the Schaller. I use 'em both on my guitars.
Just my $.02 worth.
....Bob
rspst14
Tone Cat
Re: Strap-locks..
In my experience, the main cause of failing strap locks is that the screw hole for the strap button gets stripped, causing it to pull out of the body. I've always filled the screw hole with super glue before screwing the strap button to the body. I use both the Dunlop and Schaller straplocks...maybe I'm just less than smart, but I've never understood what to do with all the other parts that come with the Dunlop system. I've always just attached the top part to the strap button, same as I do with the Schallers.
There's a chance that you may only be able to use one or the other. On my Hamer, the Schallers wouldn't fit because of the screw hole size, so I had to go with Dunlops.
Ryan
In my experience, the main cause of failing strap locks is that the screw hole for the strap button gets stripped, causing it to pull out of the body. I've always filled the screw hole with super glue before screwing the strap button to the body. I use both the Dunlop and Schaller straplocks...maybe I'm just less than smart, but I've never understood what to do with all the other parts that come with the Dunlop system. I've always just attached the top part to the strap button, same as I do with the Schallers.
There's a chance that you may only be able to use one or the other. On my Hamer, the Schallers wouldn't fit because of the screw hole size, so I had to go with Dunlops.
Ryan
Hellion
New member
Re: Strap-locks..
I've used Schallers for the last 20 years with no problems or complaints (About $15 at any store). If the guitar is really heavy (think 70's Fender bass or Les Paul), sometimes the button will come loose from the guitar, but it will usually give you some warning. The first thing I do to any guitar I get is to fit it with Schaller straplocks.
I've used Schallers for the last 20 years with no problems or complaints (About $15 at any store). If the guitar is really heavy (think 70's Fender bass or Les Paul), sometimes the button will come loose from the guitar, but it will usually give you some warning. The first thing I do to any guitar I get is to fit it with Schaller straplocks.
texasguitarslinger
Mo Cow Bellologist
Re: Strap-locks..
If you are going to fill the screw hole with anything it should be wood putty. Stuff's about $2 at any Lowes or Home Depot.
If you are going to fill the screw hole with anything it should be wood putty. Stuff's about $2 at any Lowes or Home Depot.
midnite_man
New member
Re: Strap-locks..
If you ever have problems with your strap-button hole stripping out you may want to try stuffing a couple of toothpicks in there and re-inserting the screw. You could dabble a little bit of Elmer's Carpenter Glue in there and let it dry before putting the screw back in. I know the toothpick trick w/o the glue works real well with stripped out pickguard holes on my Strats. Like the fella that mentioned loc-tite above, I'm also not sure that super-glue would be the best thing to use if you ever had to replace the strap-button for any reason. I wouldn't use it, but that's just my opinion. You'd be looking at a permanent situation there and if you ever had to remove the screw you might end up damaging the wood down there.
As far as the screw fitting the hole of the strap-lock button you get with your set of either Schallers or Dunlops (and I've found that a lot of the time the screws that come with the strap locks are too small for the existing hole in the guitar's body, thus having to use the stock screw that was already in the guitar), if you have a small bench grinder or Dremel you can grind the edges of the screw-head down until they completely fit through the button. With Dunlops make sure the screw goes all the way through the button or the spring loaded locking stem on the part that attaches to your strap might not lock in all the way.
It would be best to use the same screw that was in there anyways to avoid any sloppiness after installation.
Hope any of this helps
....Bob
If you ever have problems with your strap-button hole stripping out you may want to try stuffing a couple of toothpicks in there and re-inserting the screw. You could dabble a little bit of Elmer's Carpenter Glue in there and let it dry before putting the screw back in. I know the toothpick trick w/o the glue works real well with stripped out pickguard holes on my Strats. Like the fella that mentioned loc-tite above, I'm also not sure that super-glue would be the best thing to use if you ever had to replace the strap-button for any reason. I wouldn't use it, but that's just my opinion. You'd be looking at a permanent situation there and if you ever had to remove the screw you might end up damaging the wood down there.
As far as the screw fitting the hole of the strap-lock button you get with your set of either Schallers or Dunlops (and I've found that a lot of the time the screws that come with the strap locks are too small for the existing hole in the guitar's body, thus having to use the stock screw that was already in the guitar), if you have a small bench grinder or Dremel you can grind the edges of the screw-head down until they completely fit through the button. With Dunlops make sure the screw goes all the way through the button or the spring loaded locking stem on the part that attaches to your strap might not lock in all the way.
It would be best to use the same screw that was in there anyways to avoid any sloppiness after installation.
Hope any of this helps
....Bob
midnite_man
New member
Re: Strap-locks..
That sounds like a good idea also!
....Bob
texasguitarslinger said:
That sounds like a good idea also!
....Bob
S
Skarekrough
Guest
Re: Strap-locks..
By nature the screw will loosen with use. While regular preventitive maintenance will cure that it isn't something folks regularly think of.
I used Loctite on my first set of Schallers in about 1986. It's a cheapo Ernie Ball nylon strap. The strap is still in fine condition and the strap is still totally secure. I can see it lasting me another solid 20 years; it can't be anywhere near half its lifespan. Buy a good strap, Loctite it and you'll only ever have to do it once.
Wear and tear on the hole will be dramatically reduced if there is never any movement on that area...like if you used Loctite on them.
midnite_man said:
By nature the screw will loosen with use. While regular preventitive maintenance will cure that it isn't something folks regularly think of.
I used Loctite on my first set of Schallers in about 1986. It's a cheapo Ernie Ball nylon strap. The strap is still in fine condition and the strap is still totally secure. I can see it lasting me another solid 20 years; it can't be anywhere near half its lifespan. Buy a good strap, Loctite it and you'll only ever have to do it once.
Wear and tear on the hole will be dramatically reduced if there is never any movement on that area...like if you used Loctite on them.
Indie P Bass
New member
Re: Strap-locks..
schallers
schallers
midnite_man
New member
Re: Strap-locks..
I guess maybe the issue of the strap-lock getting loose might be a result of moving around alot while playing? Straps can and do wear out, depending on the material. I would imagine if the user doesn't gig much (or not at all) and is secure with the strap they choose as a life-long keeper for a particular guitar(s), then applying loc-tite or tack-welding the lock in place ( :laugh2: ) really isn't an issue.
If you care enough to buy strap-locks to protect your guitar, surely you would do regular checks on all your equipment including any looseness of anything on your guitar or strap....wouldn't you? That's only using common sense.
All that I wrote above is only my opinion and advice. Take what you will from it and leave the rest.
Cheers!
....Bob
I guess maybe the issue of the strap-lock getting loose might be a result of moving around alot while playing? Straps can and do wear out, depending on the material. I would imagine if the user doesn't gig much (or not at all) and is secure with the strap they choose as a life-long keeper for a particular guitar(s), then applying loc-tite or tack-welding the lock in place ( :laugh2: ) really isn't an issue.
If you care enough to buy strap-locks to protect your guitar, surely you would do regular checks on all your equipment including any looseness of anything on your guitar or strap....wouldn't you? That's only using common sense.
All that I wrote above is only my opinion and advice. Take what you will from it and leave the rest.
Cheers!
....Bob
kramer
New member
Re: Strap-locks..
Matt
The strap button hole recently became stripped on my main axe, and on the advice of a fellow forum member that's exactly what I did. I've been playing it daily and gigging once or twice a week with it for more than two months since with no problems whatsoever.midnite_man said:
Matt
Re: Strap-locks..
I stand by the Schallers, never had a problem. My original set I've had for just about twent years, heck the crome is still holding up half descent ... :laugh2:
Tighten the strap part down with a vice grip, and make sure the body screw isn't over torqued. A stripped hole should really be left to cure for a couple of days with some good carpenters glue ala broken toothpicks, then the hole redrilled. The Schaller require the replacement of the existing strap button with theirs, and using their screw. Never used the Dunlops as they looked ugly, cheap, and well the Schaller's worked perfectly. I've seen 'em up to $20 a set, but you can find them cheaper. Also the Red locktite does help the body screw, but stay away from epoxies and superglues, etc. As they tend to become very brittle, the locktite stuff is made for what you are using it for. Remeber it's the strength of the wood holding the screw in there, not any glue, always use good quality wood glue, and let cure well, then redrill and tap the new screw in. You can of course fit a longer, case hardened (maybe even a bit larger diameter if you can get away with it) screw in there for an even better grip as well. Anyway ...SCHALLER's. :cool3:
I stand by the Schallers, never had a problem. My original set I've had for just about twent years, heck the crome is still holding up half descent ... :laugh2:
Tighten the strap part down with a vice grip, and make sure the body screw isn't over torqued. A stripped hole should really be left to cure for a couple of days with some good carpenters glue ala broken toothpicks, then the hole redrilled. The Schaller require the replacement of the existing strap button with theirs, and using their screw. Never used the Dunlops as they looked ugly, cheap, and well the Schaller's worked perfectly. I've seen 'em up to $20 a set, but you can find them cheaper. Also the Red locktite does help the body screw, but stay away from epoxies and superglues, etc. As they tend to become very brittle, the locktite stuff is made for what you are using it for. Remeber it's the strength of the wood holding the screw in there, not any glue, always use good quality wood glue, and let cure well, then redrill and tap the new screw in. You can of course fit a longer, case hardened (maybe even a bit larger diameter if you can get away with it) screw in there for an even better grip as well. Anyway ...SCHALLER's. :cool3:
jmh151
Active member
Re: Strap-locks..
Only go with Schallers. I heard the bearings on the dunlops are unreliable. As everyone said, be sure to use loc-tite in the srtap, that's the only weakness I've found.
If you want to go cheap you can always use a washer- I did it on my Les Paul for years, but you can never take the strap off
Only go with Schallers. I heard the bearings on the dunlops are unreliable. As everyone said, be sure to use loc-tite in the srtap, that's the only weakness I've found.
If you want to go cheap you can always use a washer- I did it on my Les Paul for years, but you can never take the strap off
S
Skarekrough
Guest
Re: Strap-locks..
I witnessed a Dunlop Lock bearing failure during a gig with my old band. Mid-song he just totally lost the neck of the strap and had to finish the song without it. It took some duct tape to get it so he could finish the show.
The danger of the washer solution is, indeed, not being able to take the strap off. Rarely do I see cases that can provide a decent place for the straps to be housed when they're attached that way. A strap packed away attached can cause damage to the guitars finish.
Sure....you always go over your gear to check it. However, it's the general nature of the metal used with Schallers to loosen pretty easily, especially over time. Torking them down so they're secure does alot to help. But the problem is that once they start moving the wear on the threads makes them much more prone to loosening up.
Loctite doesn't marry you to a straplock, it just makes it secure. Removal of the Loctite gunk is easy enough to do. Loctite is meant to keep nuts secure on bolts, that's what it does. And the almost 20 year success on a strap that I've done hundreds of shows with is a testimony to that. I'm not sure why you fear the stuff so much; it does exactly what you want a straplock to do; keep things in place through a decent amount of vibration and outside force.
I witnessed a Dunlop Lock bearing failure during a gig with my old band. Mid-song he just totally lost the neck of the strap and had to finish the song without it. It took some duct tape to get it so he could finish the show.
The danger of the washer solution is, indeed, not being able to take the strap off. Rarely do I see cases that can provide a decent place for the straps to be housed when they're attached that way. A strap packed away attached can cause damage to the guitars finish.
midnite_man said:
Sure....you always go over your gear to check it. However, it's the general nature of the metal used with Schallers to loosen pretty easily, especially over time. Torking them down so they're secure does alot to help. But the problem is that once they start moving the wear on the threads makes them much more prone to loosening up.
Loctite doesn't marry you to a straplock, it just makes it secure. Removal of the Loctite gunk is easy enough to do. Loctite is meant to keep nuts secure on bolts, that's what it does. And the almost 20 year success on a strap that I've done hundreds of shows with is a testimony to that. I'm not sure why you fear the stuff so much; it does exactly what you want a straplock to do; keep things in place through a decent amount of vibration and outside force.
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