Strat Nut issue

blakejcan

Well-known member
Tried to install my own nut on my strat build and after getting it all together I'm realizing that on the high E side my nut looks higher than on the low E. Not the nut slots......the whole nut.

I went back and looked at all of my other guitars and they seem to be doing the opposite.

I only care because this thing is not staying in tune through normal play and gets super out of tune when I use the tremolo at all.

I'd guess I need to make the nut slots a touch wider to allow the strings to slide through better and I would also benefit from shaving down the overall nut height on the high E side. That sound right? Anything I'm missing?
 
The nut should just be tall enough overall that half the wound string sits in the slot, and the trebles should just sit in the slot below the top surface. Of course, you want the string slots low enough to make playing easy, and having them low at the nut helps with intonation because you aren't sharping the strings at both ends. Wider slots are not always the answer. For instance, I use an Exacto razor saw .012 wide to cut a slot for the .010 string. Extra material above the string could cause binding during tuning or using the wangulator. Making a good nut is an art.
 
Yes, you have to reshape the nut. If you can't do a good job, you have to take it to a good luthe. It takes practice to get it right, it's not likely to happen on the 1st try.

There are several issues that all have to come together with the final shape:

the shape of the nut
how much the strings protrude
the depth of the slots
the width of the slots
the angle of the slots

The nut is generally shaped to where the strings can protrude like goober explained, fits correctly, and has a nice contour to it. The depth of the slots are where they're high enough to not buzz and to give a good feel but low enough to not push sharp. A good measurement I always recommend for medium low is .016" - .020" e to E. The width of the slots is only slightly wider than the string, not a lot like goober explained. The angle is slightly downward going towards the tuners.

Again, this takes precision and practice. You can practice on a few different nuts until you get it right. Or you can take it to a craftsman.
 
The important things are what Clint said...depth, width, and (especially) angle of the slots. Only the edge of the slot toward the fretboard should touch the string. If you cut the slot wider than the string you could get buzzing or rattle. Too narrow and you can get string "sticking" in the nut. The slots, essentially, have to be EXACT to function properly. That's why so many people say that it's best done by a "good" luthier and that if you do it yourself you will probably mess it up your first try. But don't be discouraged, it is a skill that you CAN learn to do well if you want.

As far as the height of the nut above the string is concerned, that is purely an esthetic thing and for comfort while playing. It has no affect on the function since it has no contact with the string at all. Whether the nut height is half the diameter of the wound strings or 6 inches high it will not have any affect on function/ease of tuning/tuning stability/etc. since any part of the nut above 1/2 the diameter does not contact the string at all at any time.
 
it was a pre-shaped & pre-slotted nut from stewmac. I basically did not shave down the bottom to the right height. Might have been uneven also when I did it. Now it's glued in and I need to either take it out and shave it down or reshape the top. Neither sound particularly easy. Hm.
 
You can take pliers, grab the nut, rock it a bit, and pull directly up. Shaving the bottom will probably be easier. After that you can leave the top if it's in the ballpark or make small adjustments.
 
Thanks all.

I left the nut in, sanded it down on the high end, recut the fret slots a bit and it all seems to be staying in tune quite a bit better now. Need to go back through and fix a couple other things now but appreciate it!
 
Back
Top