stratocaster setups

Left_Hand_Strat

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how do you do yours?

do you use any guides? if so, which ones and where are they located?

lastly, it is possible to get a floating trem with great tuning stability right? cause I swear theres some videos....
 
Re: stratocaster setups

i keep the action as low as i can while having a strong clear ringing note

the neck very straight with just a touch of relief

what type of trem? traditional fender six screw?
 
Re: stratocaster setups

I don't use any guides or measurements other than my eyeballs - and I can absolutely have a v-trem setup to pull and dive and return in tune.
 
Re: stratocaster setups

I like the keep the neck much like Jeremy does, strait with a bit of relief. I keep my action probably just a touch higher though, don't like it waaaay low.

As for the trem, I've always just had it flush against the body. Works better for my style of music. It's possible to keep it floating and stable though, but it takes practice to get it right.
 
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I've found - for good tremolo results - you've got to pay attention to the nut. Nut Sauce or other lubricants is only an assist - you've got to make certain the nut slots are cut correctly, angled properly and smooth.
 
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my action is higher than ya think. i play very hard so the action needs to be high enough so the string has plenty of room to wobble around.
 
Re: stratocaster setups

"Tuning stability". Depends on how you play. If you're Jeff Beck, you need a slick or roller nut and locking tuners to keep keep it in tune. But if you just occasionally warble the trem, a normal nut and pegs are fine. A little lube goes a long way though (that's what SHE said!). Normal Fender Trems akin to the vintage ones have pretty sketchy screw holes that tend to bind up and can give you fits even with a slick nut and lockers. I've used a Wilkinson 6-hole that elongates the holes on the underside of the knife-edge to prevent the inconsistent return-to-zero point issue.
 
Re: stratocaster setups

Getting tuning stability on a 6 screw trem can be hard depending on the quality of the hardware and nut. Make sure the nut doesn't bind (this is most of the battle IMO) and then you can use graphite lube on the string tree and a little in the notches on the saddle.
I use 3 springs going from the 3 middle hooks on the trem claw to the two outer holes and the middle hole on the block. 3 springs seems to work great for 9s and 10s. 2 springs can work for 9s but it's been forever since I tried that combo.

The trem, when set up to fender's guide, pivots on the 2 outer screws. Slack the strings and push down on the bridge until the trem sits flat on the body. Raise all 6 screws until they're about 1/16" above the bridge plate (or high enough that when the bridge gets to it's final angle, the plate doesn't hit the screw heads). Lower the 2 outside screws until the screw head just barely sits flush with the top of the bridge plate. Tune to pitch and then adjust the trem claw to give 1/8" of clearance between the back of the bridge plate and the body. Work the trem claw in small increments, tuning to pitch each time. Your trem should float nice and free.
Still, it's pretty hard to get a vintage trem to do dive bombs, I dunno if it was meant for that.
Then I set my relief to nearly none, action to fender specs, and then intonation, and then lastly pickup height. My pickups are a lot lower than fender spec, I like a clear, airy sound without too much midrange.
 
Re: stratocaster setups

One of the boutique makers who uses the Fender bridge (so I hear) removes paint from the block and opens up the mounting holes slightly then re-bevels.

I've actually laid the guitar down. no strings or springs and lower the 2 outside screws until the bridge just barely starts to lift up, then back off maybe an eighth of a turn. Same for the middle except a quarter turn.

I've been doing 1/16" @ the 21st fret on the E, B, and G srtings, maybe a little more for 7 1/4 radius. 5/64" for the lower 3.
 
Re: stratocaster setups

I replaced my trem with a Wilkinson VS100 and haven't had any tuning issues when using the bar. I don't EVH either though, chord vibrato and a Neal Schon approach to single note stuff (just dipping into and out of notes) and a harmonic dive here and there. I constantly change from a floating set-up to a decked set-up. If you don't need to pull up I would recommend just putting the bridge flush against the body. Carl Verheyan has a video on youtube about he likes his set-up but I think you'd be better off just messing around until you find a comfortable set-up
 
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Here's a thought that occurred to me this morning - on every vintage trem I've seen, they always use the regular round head screws. These have the bottom of the head perpendicular to the shaft of the screw. This means you have to precisely back the screw out to clear the baseplate when diving.

Has anyone used a phillips head screw where the bottom of the screw head was beveled up from the shaft? This would allow for increased clearance for the baseplate.
 
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