String Gauges & Nut Slots

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jay 77
  • Start date Start date
J

Jay 77

Guest
What's the largest gauge I might be able to go with on my 50's Classic Strat without having to get a new nut? Right now I've got 10-46 on it but I'd like to go a little heavier if possible, as it's going to be my dedicated surf guitar. Any suggestions?
 
Re: String Gauges & Nut Slots

I had 11's on mine when i used it for slide. No problems, but they were stiff as hell when you want to bend.
 
Re: String Gauges & Nut Slots

Probably kinda difficult to do if you don't have a pair of calipers, but if you measure the width of the nut slots, you can get an idea of the max width that will go in.

You could always widen the slots yourself with sandpaper or files, but you might have tuning or intonation problems if you go back to drastically thinner gauges.
 
Last edited:
Re: String Gauges & Nut Slots

I use 11's on all my electrics. I can't recall opening the nut slots except in my 359. That guitar still needs a minor tweak in the nut slots width. Other then that I just put heavier strings on each of my guitars and the y play fine. You may not be able to get by without a tweak but give. It a shot and see what happens
 
Re: String Gauges & Nut Slots

I just learned to stay away from the nut, because I don't have any of the proper files for the job. But if you do have the tools/a way of improvising, great. I think the max you can fit in a fender nut (low e) without modifications is .052, so somewhere around 11-48 and see how you like that gauge. Really I think you only start getting problems when you go into 12s.
 
Re: String Gauges & Nut Slots

From my experience, the 49-11 was binding my G and D strings. With 52 I had a binding problem with all of them expect he thinnest two. 10-46 are just perfect.
 
Re: String Gauges & Nut Slots

I forgot to add and I mentioned that in my every other post, probably. If you don't have nut files, take automotive valve lapping compound and use an apropriate gauge string for each slot and grind away. And take it easy, don't rush it :)
 
Re: String Gauges & Nut Slots

I just learned to stay away from the nut, because I don't have any of the proper files for the job. But if you do have the tools/a way of improvising, great. I think the max you can fit in a fender nut (low e) without modifications is .052, so somewhere around 11-48 and see how you like that gauge. Really I think you only start getting problems when you go into 12s.

I don't have the right tools, or the know-how to do it, so I'll have to be careful. I'm thinking of trying a set of 10-52 to see how they are (I remember using them on another strat a long long time ago with no issues) and if they work, that should do it for now. I like the feel of the plain strings but would like a little more resistance out of the wound ones so I think the 10-52's might do the trick. If not, it's back to 10-46.
 
Re: String Gauges & Nut Slots

oh oh, just remembered a substitute for nut files... go to Canadian tire and pick up a set of automotive feeler gauges.

The set I have, it goes from 0.010" to 0.035"

You can fold a small bit of sandpaper around the gauges and use it to widen the slots. It'll take a lot more effort than a file made of metal, but it'll get the job done. But be careful about the bottom of the slot, you don't want it to go further down, but you do want to widen the walls of the slot.
 
Re: String Gauges & Nut Slots

oh oh, just remembered a substitute for nut files... go to Canadian tire and pick up a set of automotive feeler gauges.

The set I have, it goes from 0.010" to 0.035"

You can fold a small bit of sandpaper around the gauges and use it to widen the slots. It'll take a lot more effort than a file made of metal, but it'll get the job done. But be careful about the bottom of the slot, you don't want it to go further down, but you do want to widen the walls of the slot.

So basically if I can't touch bottom I may as well bang the hell out of the sides? :)

Good to know... I'll try the strings as is and if they don't quite work I'll head over to CT.
 
Re: String Gauges & Nut Slots

You need to "widen" the nut slot and be very careful not to "deepen" it.

Let me tell you that widening nut slots without deepening them with files, sandpaper or whatever you are using is VERY difficult.

You NEED to get feeler gauges at an automotive store and lay those down on the fretboard to the exact depth of the nut slots... THEN you can start widening without deepening.

Taking any file or abrasive material to your nut slot without putting down some kind of depth stopper is usually a recipe for a ruined nut.
 
Re: String Gauges & Nut Slots

So basically if I can't touch bottom I may as well bang the hell out of the sides? :)

Good to know... I'll try the strings as is and if they don't quite work I'll head over to CT.

not exactly...if you lower the lowest point of the slot, the string will start fretting out. Nuts are usually cut so the lowest point is roughly the same height above the fingerboard as a fret. If you start going lower than that, then it's like having a low fret, right at the nut end. Also, zenmind's suggestion of using a depth stop is a really good idea and makes working on the nut much easier.
 
Re: String Gauges & Nut Slots

not exactly...if you lower the lowest point of the slot, the string will start fretting out. Nuts are usually cut so the lowest point is roughly the same height above the fingerboard as a fret. If you start going lower than that, then it's like having a low fret, right at the nut end. Also, zenmind's suggestion of using a depth stop is a really good idea and makes working on the nut much easier.

There's an excellent chance I'd mess it all up royally... might be better off just trying a few different brands/types in the same gauge instead. Thanks for all the help!
 
Re: String Gauges & Nut Slots

That, or get a nut that already accepts larger strings. An example would be the Fender LSR Roller nut, which can accept anything up to a .056 for the low e.
 
Re: String Gauges & Nut Slots

Don't wanna be rude, but how many of you have actually used nut files? I don't mean you borrowed it from a friend to kiss a single slot.
You're giving the guy a hard time, you're making a nuclear physics out of it. The whole concept of having a right tool is to yield best results, not ease up a process.
Nut files, especially those regular U-shape that are sold at Stew-Mac are flimsy to work with, they bend and wiggle. The best files I have used are Hosco tapered (StewMac has its own version of double-sided tapered files), they are used by Ibanez and Warmoth. They leave a slightly V-shaped slot with a round bottom and the taper helps to file down the sides too. The U-profile files cut only on the bottom. For a flawless work you need to combine both.

So what if he screws up? He can just shim that up and take care of the problem. The great Frank Ford shims his nuts with a stack of waterproof polyester label stickers, it's that easy. Or you can make an aluminium or brass shim.
Let him have an experience, not that everyone should commence at modifying their guitar, but you have to have some basic geometry understanding if you can change a string and tune up by yourself, right? We are (well mostly) men afer all, aren't we?
 
Back
Top