italic zero
New member
Re: Strings Hitting Tonepros Bridge
My schecter does that as well...
My schecter does that as well...
Strings Hitting Tonepros Bridge
- Thread starter Infinite Dreams
- Start date
mnbaseball91
New member
Re: Strings Hitting Tonepros Bridge
^If it's not string through, just raise the tail piece.
^If it's not string through, just raise the tail piece.
Frantic_Rock
FragleRockologist
Re: Strings Hitting Tonepros Bridge
I think, if you can use a file to just put a little groove in the back of the bridge, where it's touching - that would be pretty good. I don't imagine it would be very difficult.
Good luck,
FR
I think, if you can use a file to just put a little groove in the back of the bridge, where it's touching - that would be pretty good. I don't imagine it would be very difficult.
Good luck,
FR
Re: Strings Hitting Tonepros Bridge
I just got a guitar with string through style and it came with a Tonepro's bridge.
I took the Tone Pros off of it as 5 of the 6 strings were resting on the end of the bridge with extreme pressure. I could not even force a metal feeler gauge of a micro thickness of 0.0015" to pass under the string between the bridge where the string contacts it the pressure was so great when the guitar is tuned to normal pitch.
Is this a problem? It sure is.
This changes the tension/feel of the strings, just as adjusting the height of a stop tail would.
It also kills the volume and sustain of the guitar if it is excessive pressure.
The guitar I just got is a B.C. Rich Bich PRO X hard tail. With the Tonepros bridge on it was dead, lifeless and had VERY stiff action.
I put on a no name import bridge as this is what this guitar was designed for, they are not as wide and have slightly taller saddles than the Tone Pros bridge. Now I can easily put a 0.003" feeler gauge under the strings at the edge of the bridge.
After re-tuning and setting the action to exactly as it was with the Tonepros bridge the change was night and day.
The tension/feel is now much better, it's way easier to bend strings now, and the sustain was vastly improved. Now the guitar feels alive, you can feel it resonate on your chest when unplugged. Before you couldn't.
Mind you this issue is not limited to Tonepros bridges, Gibson has this issue across the board on many of their guitars as well as other manufactures. It's bad design/excessive build tolerances.
On my 1977 Gibson Explorer I had to find taller saddles which was no easy feat as the bulk of them out there are similar in height. I could've raised the stop tail, but it had to be put so high up that there was very little pressure on the saddles to make the strings clear the end of the bridge.
Looking at a Tonepros roller bridge I have on my Gibson ES 135, it looks, due to the different saddle style and the roller on each saddle, that the total saddle height is much higher than a non roller bridge. Unfortunately I don't think Tonepros makes an import size roller bridge. I'll have to search the net some more. But this roller saddle bridge will fit US guitars with the big Gibson style bridge.
I just got a guitar with string through style and it came with a Tonepro's bridge.
I took the Tone Pros off of it as 5 of the 6 strings were resting on the end of the bridge with extreme pressure. I could not even force a metal feeler gauge of a micro thickness of 0.0015" to pass under the string between the bridge where the string contacts it the pressure was so great when the guitar is tuned to normal pitch.
Is this a problem? It sure is.
This changes the tension/feel of the strings, just as adjusting the height of a stop tail would.
It also kills the volume and sustain of the guitar if it is excessive pressure.
The guitar I just got is a B.C. Rich Bich PRO X hard tail. With the Tonepros bridge on it was dead, lifeless and had VERY stiff action.
I put on a no name import bridge as this is what this guitar was designed for, they are not as wide and have slightly taller saddles than the Tone Pros bridge. Now I can easily put a 0.003" feeler gauge under the strings at the edge of the bridge.
After re-tuning and setting the action to exactly as it was with the Tonepros bridge the change was night and day.
The tension/feel is now much better, it's way easier to bend strings now, and the sustain was vastly improved. Now the guitar feels alive, you can feel it resonate on your chest when unplugged. Before you couldn't.
Mind you this issue is not limited to Tonepros bridges, Gibson has this issue across the board on many of their guitars as well as other manufactures. It's bad design/excessive build tolerances.
On my 1977 Gibson Explorer I had to find taller saddles which was no easy feat as the bulk of them out there are similar in height. I could've raised the stop tail, but it had to be put so high up that there was very little pressure on the saddles to make the strings clear the end of the bridge.
Looking at a Tonepros roller bridge I have on my Gibson ES 135, it looks, due to the different saddle style and the roller on each saddle, that the total saddle height is much higher than a non roller bridge. Unfortunately I don't think Tonepros makes an import size roller bridge. I'll have to search the net some more. But this roller saddle bridge will fit US guitars with the big Gibson style bridge.
Re: Strings Hitting Tonepros Bridge
Sometimes just flipping the bridge around will work too, as long as the saddle notches are not cut specific for each string size.
I've ran into bridges where you can't even get the screw and saddle out to reverse them.
As a follow up to my prior post, there is a Tonepros Roller import bridge available.
Measuring my US Tonepros roller bridge it looks like you can get more than a 16th of an inch extra height with the roller saddle versus the notched wedge style. That may or may not be enough to alleviate the problem and the bridge is about $60.
Sometimes this works and sometimes it does not. It's certainly worth a try.
Sometimes just flipping the bridge around will work too, as long as the saddle notches are not cut specific for each string size.
I've ran into bridges where you can't even get the screw and saddle out to reverse them.
As a follow up to my prior post, there is a Tonepros Roller import bridge available.
Measuring my US Tonepros roller bridge it looks like you can get more than a 16th of an inch extra height with the roller saddle versus the notched wedge style. That may or may not be enough to alleviate the problem and the bridge is about $60.
Leon Of Late
New member
Re: Strings Hitting Tonepros Bridge
On some guitars with a stoptail you can also simply top wrap the strings over the stoptail and then run them to the bridge. This has worked on both Gibson and Epi Les Pauls that I've owned, but that is the limit of my experience. Some guitars may require more adjustment than this provides.
On some guitars with a stoptail you can also simply top wrap the strings over the stoptail and then run them to the bridge. This has worked on both Gibson and Epi Les Pauls that I've owned, but that is the limit of my experience. Some guitars may require more adjustment than this provides.
Re: Strings Hitting Tonepros Bridge
This works many times, and even when the problem of the strings hitting the bridge does not exist some folks still like to have the stop tail down tight and then top wrap the strings over the stop tail.
On many guitars I've tried this on though the results are too extreme, there ends up being very little pressure on the strings at the bridge saddles resulting in a dead tone and very loose action feel.
This works many times, and even when the problem of the strings hitting the bridge does not exist some folks still like to have the stop tail down tight and then top wrap the strings over the stop tail.
On many guitars I've tried this on though the results are too extreme, there ends up being very little pressure on the strings at the bridge saddles resulting in a dead tone and very loose action feel.
Re: Strings Hitting Tonepros Bridge
There is a roller bridge that fits imports and their large bushing size (6mm). Several places sell them, GFS is one, I think. The ones I've seen are made by Sung-IL. I have tried them on a few guitars. They give you more travel for intonation adjustment and, they can solve string clearance issues at the back of the bridge because, as mentioned, the rollers seem to sit higher than regular saddles. Some people say they kill sustain. Noticed it on a couple guitars, not on a couple others, so it probably depends. The rollers sit on small diameter "axles" so I really think that over time, they will probably sink. The ones I've had/seen all are made for a 14" radius, which probably wont pose a problem, but could, on a 12" radius board. I bought them to replace import ABR style bridges with retaining wires that developed rattles. For inexpensive import bridges, I prefer the no-wire ABR style bridges, or the wider Nashville style (more intonation travel). Gotoh offers both but sometimes hard to find the wireless ABR with notched saddles. Sung IL does offer those (WD Music has them). From owning both, I don't think that the inexpensive Gotoh's are any better that the Sung-Il's, but maybe that's just me. The higher priced Gotoh stuff is a different story.
There is a roller bridge that fits imports and their large bushing size (6mm). Several places sell them, GFS is one, I think. The ones I've seen are made by Sung-IL. I have tried them on a few guitars. They give you more travel for intonation adjustment and, they can solve string clearance issues at the back of the bridge because, as mentioned, the rollers seem to sit higher than regular saddles. Some people say they kill sustain. Noticed it on a couple guitars, not on a couple others, so it probably depends. The rollers sit on small diameter "axles" so I really think that over time, they will probably sink. The ones I've had/seen all are made for a 14" radius, which probably wont pose a problem, but could, on a 12" radius board. I bought them to replace import ABR style bridges with retaining wires that developed rattles. For inexpensive import bridges, I prefer the no-wire ABR style bridges, or the wider Nashville style (more intonation travel). Gotoh offers both but sometimes hard to find the wireless ABR with notched saddles. Sung IL does offer those (WD Music has them). From owning both, I don't think that the inexpensive Gotoh's are any better that the Sung-Il's, but maybe that's just me. The higher priced Gotoh stuff is a different story.
JeffB
Let it B
Re: Strings Hitting Tonepros Bridge
If the strings are lightly touching, and the tension is OK for the individual, I think its fine. I have adjusted everyway possible and on my Trad this is what offeres the best feel and tone. Less tension, via top wrapping OR raising the stop even more to keep the strings from clipping the back of the bridge, kills the sound and/or feel of this guitar. I also find it a non issue on my classic tone-wise but the classic feels better topwrapped as its harder for me to bend with the super skinny neck.
I personally think the locking mechanism on the tonepros bridge anddigging into the posts changes the tone noticably. Ive had two guitars with them, including a near $4k guitar and a $600 guitar and they both benefitted from removing the screws.This was years ago before I heard plenty of people online at the various "snob" forums started saying the same thing about them.
The better solution today is a nashville to abr conversion system. Abrs sound different to begin with, but the converion eliminates any problems with touching.
If the strings are lightly touching, and the tension is OK for the individual, I think its fine. I have adjusted everyway possible and on my Trad this is what offeres the best feel and tone. Less tension, via top wrapping OR raising the stop even more to keep the strings from clipping the back of the bridge, kills the sound and/or feel of this guitar. I also find it a non issue on my classic tone-wise but the classic feels better topwrapped as its harder for me to bend with the super skinny neck.
I personally think the locking mechanism on the tonepros bridge anddigging into the posts changes the tone noticably. Ive had two guitars with them, including a near $4k guitar and a $600 guitar and they both benefitted from removing the screws.This was years ago before I heard plenty of people online at the various "snob" forums started saying the same thing about them.
The better solution today is a nashville to abr conversion system. Abrs sound different to begin with, but the converion eliminates any problems with touching.
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Re: Strings Hitting Tonepros Bridge
Ideally, the strings don't touch, but for most guitars I think this conversation is much ado about nothing. Granted, I wouldn't want a sharp bend in the strings over the back of the bridge, but in most cases I've seen, the strings are still pretty much straight. And in that situation, I just can't see how it really matters. As far as sustain, I sometimes stuff foam between the bridge and tailpiece (or ferrules) to stop sympathetic vibrations anyway.
Ideally, the strings don't touch, but for most guitars I think this conversation is much ado about nothing. Granted, I wouldn't want a sharp bend in the strings over the back of the bridge, but in most cases I've seen, the strings are still pretty much straight. And in that situation, I just can't see how it really matters. As far as sustain, I sometimes stuff foam between the bridge and tailpiece (or ferrules) to stop sympathetic vibrations anyway.
Demanic
PenultimateTone Member
Re: Strings Hitting Tonepros Bridge
I have a Shecter Blackjack that is string through body over a Tone pro bridge. After reading this thread I decided to check if the strings hit the bridge anywhere other than the saddles. Indeed they touch the end of the bridge as they go into the body. Doesn't seem to have any negative effect on tone, tension or string longevity.
Sent from my MotoE2(4G-LTE) using Tapatalk
I have a Shecter Blackjack that is string through body over a Tone pro bridge. After reading this thread I decided to check if the strings hit the bridge anywhere other than the saddles. Indeed they touch the end of the bridge as they go into the body. Doesn't seem to have any negative effect on tone, tension or string longevity.
Sent from my MotoE2(4G-LTE) using Tapatalk
Re: Strings Hitting Tonepros Bridge
Same situation here with at least two guitars I own. No adverse affects that I am aware of. Still nice guitars.
Same situation here with at least two guitars I own. No adverse affects that I am aware of. Still nice guitars.
Re: Strings Hitting Tonepros Bridge
But how would you know it's not adversely affecting anything if you have never fixed the situation?
Re: Strings Hitting Tonepros Bridge
Can somebody explain the science of why string length outside of the speaking length of a string touching an object adversely affects sustain, tone, etc.
String trees, string retainers, foam to stop sympathetic vibrations, etc. all touch the string outside of its scale length. Strat strings touch in multiple places between the crest of the saddle and where the ball rests in the trem block. Why is touching the back of a tune-o-matic bridge such a horrible thing in comparison?
Can somebody explain the science of why string length outside of the speaking length of a string touching an object adversely affects sustain, tone, etc.
String trees, string retainers, foam to stop sympathetic vibrations, etc. all touch the string outside of its scale length. Strat strings touch in multiple places between the crest of the saddle and where the ball rests in the trem block. Why is touching the back of a tune-o-matic bridge such a horrible thing in comparison?
DeadandBuried
New member
Re: Strings Hitting Tonepros Bridge
I was breaking strings all the time due to the angle against the tailepiece. I think the sharp angle was causing the ball end to rub against the edge and wear it down. Since then I've raised the tailpiece and though one string broke once in a 6 month span I haven't had any breakages since. Haven't noticed a difference with sustain.
I was breaking strings all the time due to the angle against the tailepiece. I think the sharp angle was causing the ball end to rub against the edge and wear it down. Since then I've raised the tailpiece and though one string broke once in a 6 month span I haven't had any breakages since. Haven't noticed a difference with sustain.