Switch problems
- Thread starter ESPzach
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Re: Switch problems
Switchcraft makes several toggles, including shorties. Unless it's a matter of cavity width, I don't see how the switch cannot be replaced with a Switchcraft. They tend to be a little wider than the cheap, import switches, mainly because of the solder tabs. Even then, it would take a pretty significantly smaller switch cavity to negate being able to do the swap to a switchcraft. If that were the case, which I doubt, Switchcraft makes a toggle for Gretsch guitars that is set up like the import switches with the ground tab on one side and all the hots on the other. I haven't measured but those seem to be a bit more compact, width wise. I have a Gibson LP that came from the factory with a Swithcraft that is set up like that. Although, it is slightly different than the Gretch-Switchcraft.
Worst case, just replace it with another import switch. They definitely aren't built like Switchcrafts. But, they seem to hold up OK.
Switchcraft makes several toggles, including shorties. Unless it's a matter of cavity width, I don't see how the switch cannot be replaced with a Switchcraft. They tend to be a little wider than the cheap, import switches, mainly because of the solder tabs. Even then, it would take a pretty significantly smaller switch cavity to negate being able to do the swap to a switchcraft. If that were the case, which I doubt, Switchcraft makes a toggle for Gretsch guitars that is set up like the import switches with the ground tab on one side and all the hots on the other. I haven't measured but those seem to be a bit more compact, width wise. I have a Gibson LP that came from the factory with a Swithcraft that is set up like that. Although, it is slightly different than the Gretch-Switchcraft.
Worst case, just replace it with another import switch. They definitely aren't built like Switchcrafts. But, they seem to hold up OK.
DrNewcenstein
He Did the Monster Mash
Re: Switch problems
These cheap import 3-way toggles all have this problem, especially on Jacksons and Charvels.
I've seen two types of operational methods for these -
1: The switch bat pushes two contacts together, grounding out that side. In the middle, no contact plates touch, so nothing is grounded.
2: The switch bat pushes two contacts apart, breaking the hot connection on one side. In the middle, both sets of contact plates touch, which lets signal pass.
From what I have observed of this problem of intermittent functionality, it is due to the thinner metal used for these contact plates being easily bent outward so they don't make solid contact. You can bend them in towards the middle so they get better contact, but it's tricky: too much and they either break or slip under the switch bat, or too little and the problem returns quickly.
If it's the boxed type, I'm assuming it's a DPDT switch, in which case one or both of the "skis" (little metal sliders inside) have jumped track, or the switch bat can't hold them tight enough to make the connection every time. These are heavily influenced by the lateral angle at which the switch is pushed when actuating it. Push it a bit too far (read: at all) to the side while flipping it, and one of the "skis" slips loose.
Didn't someone make a 3-way Gibson-style toggle that had a wafer and a lever similar to a traditional Fender 3-way, only smaller so it fit in LPs? If not, that's something someone needs to get on.
These cheap import 3-way toggles all have this problem, especially on Jacksons and Charvels.
I've seen two types of operational methods for these -
1: The switch bat pushes two contacts together, grounding out that side. In the middle, no contact plates touch, so nothing is grounded.
2: The switch bat pushes two contacts apart, breaking the hot connection on one side. In the middle, both sets of contact plates touch, which lets signal pass.
From what I have observed of this problem of intermittent functionality, it is due to the thinner metal used for these contact plates being easily bent outward so they don't make solid contact. You can bend them in towards the middle so they get better contact, but it's tricky: too much and they either break or slip under the switch bat, or too little and the problem returns quickly.
If it's the boxed type, I'm assuming it's a DPDT switch, in which case one or both of the "skis" (little metal sliders inside) have jumped track, or the switch bat can't hold them tight enough to make the connection every time. These are heavily influenced by the lateral angle at which the switch is pushed when actuating it. Push it a bit too far (read: at all) to the side while flipping it, and one of the "skis" slips loose.
Didn't someone make a 3-way Gibson-style toggle that had a wafer and a lever similar to a traditional Fender 3-way, only smaller so it fit in LPs? If not, that's something someone needs to get on.