Re: The Original Fender Nocaster
There is some commonly accepted misinformation about Fender's early fretboard radii, like the "non-fact" that the 9.5 inch radius was as rare as hen's teeth. That's just not true at all. Throughout 1950 (pre-"nocaster"), the 9.5 inch radius was used almost exclusively (on pretty much all guitars but the prototypes and non-truss NAMM models, which had 7.25 inch radii).
Fretboard radius was 9.5 inches on a large percentage of "Nocasters" (and almost all Broadcasters). "Nocasters" were pretty much split between that and the 7.25 inch radius. The earlier in 1951 you go, the more 9.5 inch radius necks there are. As 1951 went on, 7.25 inch transitioned in and finally took over (though there are probably some '52's that have the 9.5 inch radius, as at least one has been documented.). The majority of neck profiles in 1951 were soft Vs (tamed down from the earlier hard Vs), but there were U/D profiles transitioning in as well. The U/D shape gradually replaced the V shape as the year went on. (Though it is rare, there are also some soft Vs on '52's). "Nocaster" 12th fret thickness was rarely thinner than 1 inch, and if so, it was by just a few thousandths of an inch, due to variances in hand sanding neck to neck. 1st fret thickness was almost always 0.85 to 0.90 inches.
The only color offered (short of a custom order) was blonde, which in its original, factory fresh form was either a pure translucent white or a "just slightly creamy" white (nobody knows for sure, as the lacquer pigment was mixed in manually without a formula, and likely varied batch to batch). But the pure lacquer used back then yellowed very quickly, so that whitish color quickly turned into honey blonde. By the '60's, most had turned quite yellow/orangey, a color that came to be unofficially referred to as butterscotch blonde. This rapid yellowing happened so quickly, that by mid-1954, Fender could see it, and didn't like it, so they switched to a different type of clear coat that didn't yellow as much. So you usually don't see mid-1954 or later models get nearly as yellow as earlier models. This change in clear coat pretty much coincides with the switch to white pickguards. (By this point, we are no longer talking about "nocasters," of course. I'm just mentioning it for the sake of your general information.)
Also with this switch to the non-yellowing lacquer, you can more easily see the "blonde burst." It was there from the beginning on most guitars, though less visibly with the honey/butterscotch ones. Its purpose was to hide the wood joints on the sides. I put the word "burst" in quotes, because that's just a shortcut name I use for it. It wasn't intended to be a "burst" by Fender – just a technique to hide the joints. But
every blonde '50's Fender I've ever seen has had at least some semblance of this "burst," ranging anywhere from slightly more opaque sides to a full on "burst" wrapping around to the top. So IMO, an "accurate replica" should always have it.
All "nocasters" but the very, very early ones have the hot dog rout in the body.
In short, if you're building a replica that you want to look factory fresh, it should probably have either: 1) 9.5 inch radius and a thick soft V neck profile, and the hot dog rout should be there unless you are trying to recreate a very early example. 2) 7.25 inch radius and a thick U/D neck profile, with a hot dog rout.
It should also have a translucent white finish with a mild "blonde burst." If you want it to yellow over time somewhat like the originals, use the most UV-reactive nitrocellulose lacquer you can get. That basically means you want something as pure as you can get, without catalyzers or other additives if possible. Sherwin Williams still have some pretty pure lacquers. Then leave it out in the light and play it all the time, and take up smoking indoors if you don't already.
If you really aren't after an incredibly accurate replica, you can obviously do whatever you want. No one but you will give a rat's ass either way. Chasing these minute details is all for the sake of fun and personal satisfaction, not because you are going to be graded or judged on it.
If you want to learn about this stuff, you must get The Blackguard Book!
