Re: Tips for taming a Black Winter bridge
After a little while longer tinkering with the pole and pickup height I've got a tone that I really like, but with the shared tone knob I'm gonna be rolling it between dimed out on the neck and rolled to my "sweet spot" for the bridge. So I'm thinking that the 2 tone 1 volume setup will suit me better as I mess with the volume much less. The pots are alpha, but perhaps the cap could use an upgrade. I'll probably just wire up the new config. (2 tone, 1 vol) and try out both the 22 and 47 caps on the bridge. Itll probably be a while to get the parts delivered and some time set aside for guitar surgery, but I'll update back after it's all said and done. ��������
Late to the party but...
1-a sober way to do what you want would be to do what Clint 55 said: put a resistor in parallel with the bridge pickup. It will act exactly like the tone pot when you lower it (since an average tone pot doesn"t involve the tone cap before to reach 3/10... Between 10/10 and 3.5 /10, its action is essentially resistive).
To know what is the proper value, measure your current tone pot when it's lowered to suit your taste: put the probes of your meter between the lug receiving the signal and the one going to the cap...
If you find that your "sweet spot" is with the tone pot @ 175k (arbitrary value out of my head), all you have to do is to put a 270k in parallel with the bridge pickup (between its hot and ground).
Useful tool:
https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/tools/parallel-resistance-calculator/
2-If ever you dislike how the added resistor interacts with your volume pot, you may try a LOW value capacitor between the hot and ground of your bridge pickup. it will mimic how a longer guitar cable shifts down the high mids and sweetens the high range with passive pickups (
https://www.google.com/search?clien...hUKEwidydjrx7HlAhVJzYUKHRCRCzMQ4dUDCAo&uact=5
BTW, the first Google answer talking about 30 picofarad per foot is a bit low... A cable
with its two jack plugs is generally a bit more capacitive than this; 147pF per meter / 44.81 pF per foot according to my archives, based on measurements with dozens of standard coax cables).
If you like how 6m of added cable shift down the high mids and sweetens the high range, try a +/- 900pF cap between the hot and ground of your pickup. If the equivalent of 4m of cable is enough, try a value close to 600pF. An so on...
Some other solutions, for the record...
3-If you wanted less power, you might try a LR filter : an inductor (like a coil coming from a dead pickup) in series with a resistor and the whole network in parallel with the pickup to tame... it would lower its inductance and make it less loud / brighter. This trick can be combined with the "low value parallel cap trick" explained above.
4-If you wanted to tame the bass range, you would put the pickup in series with a cap, as mentioned by one of our fellow members above... but you'd have to wire the tone pot BEFORE any series cap, because the other way (series cap then tone pot) would make the tone pot react like a volume control...
Yada yada and YMMV. !-))
Anyway and IOW, there's many ways to use cheap passive components to "tune" the tone, roundness and output level of passive pickups (by modifying their resonant frequency and Q factor).
So, you don't have to put a second tone pot unless you really want it.
FWIW - I'm just trying to help and not to knock out anybody with my rambling. LOL.
Last useful tool:
http://guitarnuts2.proboards.com/thread/3627/guitarfreak-guitar-frequency-response-calculator
This excel file is a work of genius for those who want to tinker virtually with passive pickups electronics.
