treyhaislip
Well-known member
Re: To warmoth or not to warmoth...
I've never bonded with PRS, just a personal thing. My vote is for the Warmoth!
I've never bonded with PRS, just a personal thing. My vote is for the Warmoth!
To warmoth or not to warmoth...
- Thread starter iamthesuck
- Start date
Snake Aces
Singlecut Slut
Re: To warmoth or not to warmoth...
Right on, I was just giving a timetable on custom orders because it sounds like you won't have much time after August. You should get your stuff a lot sooner if you choose showcase items though. The bottom line is Warmoth makes great parts no matter how long you have to wait. The parts come together and really have given me some very special guitars and basses over the years. IMO it is well worth the wait.
For tuners I like the Gotoh SG38's Warmoth sells. I use them on all my Warmoth guitars. Do some research and see what you can find.
Right on, I was just giving a timetable on custom orders because it sounds like you won't have much time after August. You should get your stuff a lot sooner if you choose showcase items though. The bottom line is Warmoth makes great parts no matter how long you have to wait. The parts come together and really have given me some very special guitars and basses over the years. IMO it is well worth the wait.
For tuners I like the Gotoh SG38's Warmoth sells. I use them on all my Warmoth guitars. Do some research and see what you can find.
iamthesuck
New member
Re: To warmoth or not to warmoth...
Is there any advantage to any kind? I think i have the other pieces picked out. Gotta choose a neck pickup is all
Is there any advantage to any kind? I think i have the other pieces picked out. Gotta choose a neck pickup is all
Snake Aces
Singlecut Slut
Re: To warmoth or not to warmoth...
Are you asking if there are any differences or advantages between different tuning pegs?
Are you asking if there are any differences or advantages between different tuning pegs?
iamthesuck
New member
Re: To warmoth or not to warmoth...
Yes and then an aside. I'm still kind of torn. I saw a really pretty semi hollow on sweet water. I'll think about it a bit more, and really see what setup is required. So torn lol
Yes and then an aside. I'm still kind of torn. I saw a really pretty semi hollow on sweet water. I'll think about it a bit more, and really see what setup is required. So torn lol
DrNewcenstein
He Did the Monster Mash
Re: To warmoth or not to warmoth...
Am I missing something here? Unless you're going for a quadruple major, I can't see how you would not have time to bolt a neck onto a body and mount a couple of pickups and hardware. Do you have time to watch Walking Deaf? You can do all the work during one episode. If you're talking about dressing the frets and painting/finishing, then yeah I can see where time is an issue.
Am I missing something here? Unless you're going for a quadruple major, I can't see how you would not have time to bolt a neck onto a body and mount a couple of pickups and hardware. Do you have time to watch Walking Deaf? You can do all the work during one episode. If you're talking about dressing the frets and painting/finishing, then yeah I can see where time is an issue.
iamthesuck
New member
Re: To warmoth or not to warmoth...
Well don't the frets need leveled, neck adjusted, etc?
Well don't the frets need leveled, neck adjusted, etc?
Snake Aces
Singlecut Slut
Re: To warmoth or not to warmoth...
Warmoth neck pockets fit perfectly with their necks. No neck adjustments will be needed. As far as frets being leveled, well, for the most part no, it will not need it. Listen, even the PRS you are considering or any other guitar off the shelf at a guitar store will not have perfect frets (not even close to perfect frets for that matter). If you spend $4000-$5000 on a Gibson Custom shop guitar, then you might not need to level the frets. However, on almost any guitar $1500 or under it could benefit from or will need a fret level. Warmoth necks come pretty good and none of the necks I've bought absolutely need a fret level.
Warmoth neck pockets fit perfectly with their necks. No neck adjustments will be needed. As far as frets being leveled, well, for the most part no, it will not need it. Listen, even the PRS you are considering or any other guitar off the shelf at a guitar store will not have perfect frets (not even close to perfect frets for that matter). If you spend $4000-$5000 on a Gibson Custom shop guitar, then you might not need to level the frets. However, on almost any guitar $1500 or under it could benefit from or will need a fret level. Warmoth necks come pretty good and none of the necks I've bought absolutely need a fret level.
DKSEARS
New member
To warmoth or not to warmoth...
I love both of my Warmoths.
The only thing that gets played as much than my mahogany "soloist" body is my Ace Frehley Les Paul.
Here's a little blog about these two builds www.crucibleguitarworks.blogspot.com
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I love both of my Warmoths.
The only thing that gets played as much than my mahogany "soloist" body is my Ace Frehley Les Paul.
Here's a little blog about these two builds www.crucibleguitarworks.blogspot.com
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Juanhanglo
Active member
Re: To warmoth or not to warmoth...
The two i "built" (i would post pics, but my devices wont let me dragnand drop them) cost me about $1200 each.
My tele neck needed no leveling or fretwork, and hasn't needed any since '99 when i got it. Plays great, despite the 6130 frets that i dont care for.
My chambered strat hardtail came out amazing. It is seriously the best strat i have played. There is nothing i would change on it. However, the stainless frets were unseated. I had to set them with a block of wood and hammer. They were good after that, though i did get them pro leveled and it plays perfect now.
I assembled both of them myself. The actual build and setup took about 2-3 hours a piece. Wiring them took about another hour.
They are both keepers and totally worth it to me.
The two i "built" (i would post pics, but my devices wont let me dragnand drop them) cost me about $1200 each.
My tele neck needed no leveling or fretwork, and hasn't needed any since '99 when i got it. Plays great, despite the 6130 frets that i dont care for.
My chambered strat hardtail came out amazing. It is seriously the best strat i have played. There is nothing i would change on it. However, the stainless frets were unseated. I had to set them with a block of wood and hammer. They were good after that, though i did get them pro leveled and it plays perfect now.
I assembled both of them myself. The actual build and setup took about 2-3 hours a piece. Wiring them took about another hour.
They are both keepers and totally worth it to me.
DrNewcenstein
He Did the Monster Mash
Re: To warmoth or not to warmoth...
Frets coming unseated during travel would be an extreme example of atmospheric adjustments. The board expands and the neck flexes, and frets slip out of their slot. Same thing can happen if one applies too much oil to the board and the neck flexes and expands.
Given Warmoth's decades of experience and reputation for quality, the chances of something needing work are somewhere around 1 in 100. However, that means that "1" could very well be you.
As for neck adjustments, that doesn't take a week of daily/hourly attention. When the parts arrive, you mount the hardware to the body and the tuners and nut to the neck, wire up the electronics, then let the neck sit for a day or 2 to acclimate before mounting it or adjusting it.
After that time has passed, adjust the truss rod so the neck has a slight back bow that is barely visible when sighting along the edge of the board, holding the neck like a rifle (side markers pointing at the ceiling). Mount the neck and string it up, and when you're all tuned up the neck should either be flat or have a slight amount of relief. You don't want the neck to be flat when you bolt it on, unless you like a lot of relief or are tuning 2 steps down with 9-42s.
Keep it tuned to one tuning for at least a week to let the neck settle, then check it again. Adjust as needed.
If the guitar has a Floyd, and a heel-adjusting rod, and no access notch for the adjuster, you can remove the neck without removing the strings (just pop the springs off and lift the bridge out, fully tuned), make your adjustments, and then put it all back together. Takes maybe 5 minutes total. If the neck has the side-mounted adjuster, Warmoth recommends you release string tension before adjusting. Again, this is where double-locking bridges save the day as you can just pop off the springs and not touch the tuners or nut, saving time and hassle.
If it's a non-locking setup, then make sure you have a crank-style string-winder or electric drill attachment.
Frets coming unseated during travel would be an extreme example of atmospheric adjustments. The board expands and the neck flexes, and frets slip out of their slot. Same thing can happen if one applies too much oil to the board and the neck flexes and expands.
Given Warmoth's decades of experience and reputation for quality, the chances of something needing work are somewhere around 1 in 100. However, that means that "1" could very well be you.
As for neck adjustments, that doesn't take a week of daily/hourly attention. When the parts arrive, you mount the hardware to the body and the tuners and nut to the neck, wire up the electronics, then let the neck sit for a day or 2 to acclimate before mounting it or adjusting it.
After that time has passed, adjust the truss rod so the neck has a slight back bow that is barely visible when sighting along the edge of the board, holding the neck like a rifle (side markers pointing at the ceiling). Mount the neck and string it up, and when you're all tuned up the neck should either be flat or have a slight amount of relief. You don't want the neck to be flat when you bolt it on, unless you like a lot of relief or are tuning 2 steps down with 9-42s.
Keep it tuned to one tuning for at least a week to let the neck settle, then check it again. Adjust as needed.
If the guitar has a Floyd, and a heel-adjusting rod, and no access notch for the adjuster, you can remove the neck without removing the strings (just pop the springs off and lift the bridge out, fully tuned), make your adjustments, and then put it all back together. Takes maybe 5 minutes total. If the neck has the side-mounted adjuster, Warmoth recommends you release string tension before adjusting. Again, this is where double-locking bridges save the day as you can just pop off the springs and not touch the tuners or nut, saving time and hassle.
If it's a non-locking setup, then make sure you have a crank-style string-winder or electric drill attachment.
rgand
New member
Re: To warmoth or not to warmoth...
How much coffee do you drink and what would it look like when you're done?
HALENisking
New member
Re: To warmoth or not to warmoth...
haha right? But in all seriousness, around a few hours is needed, not too long. It's just assembly and set up.
haha right? But in all seriousness, around a few hours is needed, not too long. It's just assembly and set up.
rgand
New member
Re: To warmoth or not to warmoth...
For a first time, it might take a bit longer than that, too.
Snake Aces
Singlecut Slut
Re: To warmoth or not to warmoth...
Yeah, you wanna take it slow and easy when you pop the cherry.
Yeah, you wanna take it slow and easy when you pop the cherry.
iamthesuck
New member
Re: To warmoth or not to warmoth...
Update:
I went with a warmoth WGD - mahogany body, bubinga top, TOM bridge, HxH route and strat controls. Neck is Warmoth style straight pull w/ angle, Mahogany with ebony fretboard, gibson conversion length, 6105 frets, Mother Of Pearl dot inlays. Pickups are Alternative 8 Bridge, Black Winter Neck with push/pull controls for series/parallel on the neck. Not much else special other than white plastic covers for the pickups that I may decorate at a later time, but to me it's perfect
Update:
I went with a warmoth WGD - mahogany body, bubinga top, TOM bridge, HxH route and strat controls. Neck is Warmoth style straight pull w/ angle, Mahogany with ebony fretboard, gibson conversion length, 6105 frets, Mother Of Pearl dot inlays. Pickups are Alternative 8 Bridge, Black Winter Neck with push/pull controls for series/parallel on the neck. Not much else special other than white plastic covers for the pickups that I may decorate at a later time, but to me it's perfect
rgand
New member
Re: To warmoth or not to warmoth...
Sounds like a winner. Looking forward to seeing pics of it completed.
iamthesuck
New member
Re: To warmoth or not to warmoth...
Pics there shall be. Estimated time of completion is mid August. I went with showcase body & neck because I got everything I wanted within my budget. Even if there were other mods that would have been nice, the cost would have ballooned out of control. I'm super excited for this first build!
Pics there shall be. Estimated time of completion is mid August. I went with showcase body & neck because I got everything I wanted within my budget. Even if there were other mods that would have been nice, the cost would have ballooned out of control. I'm super excited for this first build!
rgand
New member
Re: To warmoth or not to warmoth...
Yeah, the showcase sure does pay off. It saves you enough to pick up a lot of the other stuff you'll need.
MetalManiac
Li'l Junior Member
Re: To warmoth or not to warmoth...
Warmoths can be a good investment, or at least hold their value, if you aren't in a hurry to sell. Leave them on the market for a few months, and part them out, and chances are they will hold their value in seperate parts as well as a name brand bolt on instrument.
Don't throw them up on ebay for a low buy it now or even a low starting bid w/o a reserve price, of course , that's a truism for a lot of stuff. OTOH, I've made a career off of cherry picking underpriced Warmoth parts off the bay.
IMO you are better off with a mid level Fender or Gibson unless you want some really good good premium parts, which I think the OP did well in that regard.
Warmoths can be a good investment, or at least hold their value, if you aren't in a hurry to sell. Leave them on the market for a few months, and part them out, and chances are they will hold their value in seperate parts as well as a name brand bolt on instrument.
Don't throw them up on ebay for a low buy it now or even a low starting bid w/o a reserve price, of course , that's a truism for a lot of stuff. OTOH, I've made a career off of cherry picking underpriced Warmoth parts off the bay.
IMO you are better off with a mid level Fender or Gibson unless you want some really good good premium parts, which I think the OP did well in that regard.
Last edited:
