Falloffthebonetone
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Re: Trouble with 70s precision bass
Totally ash
Totally ash
Trouble with 70s precision bass
- Thread starter astrozombie
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astrozombie
KatyPerryologist
Re: Trouble with 70s precision bass
thanks!
thanks!
CTN
The Drama Dude
Re: Trouble with 70s precision bass
Next time lay down some protective stuff under the screws and use a rust lubricant like this: http://www.wd40specialist.com/products/penetrating-oil
Probably does no favours for any kind of finish, so make sure you use a protective something under where you're going to be spraying it. Either that or just remove the whole bridge, lube it up away from the guitar, clean it up using naphtha or some other kind of solvent, and then give the screws a quick rinse in a screw lubricant. Then set them aside on a paper towel to dry off the excess, and wipe em up a bit before reassembling and remounting the bridge.
Old rods/nuts will often require lubrication of the threads. You can use a spray lubricant like WD-40, but be careful about the finish, obviously. It will eat through lacquer, but it just sits on top of polyurethane (still is a b!tch to clean up though). You only need a little to lubricate the threads, don't flood the whole truss rod channel.
String tension bowing a neck that is straight when unstrung is completely normal. PHYSICS man. It's just probably a bit more noticeable on a bass because the string tension from bass strings is so much more than on a guitar.
Too much forward bow will do that. You could leave out the shim and get a direct neck/body connection by adjusting the truss rod so that there's a bit of back bow when unstrung, so that it's straighter when strung.
Alternatively, you could just leave it strung, downtune/loosen the strings, then adjust the neck for less forward bow. Tune up, check the string heights. Go back and forth until you achieve the neck straightness/string heights you're looking for.
Adjusting it at full string tension (totally tuned up) could put unnecessary stress on the rod/nut threads and make it difficult to adjust at best, or strip the threads or break the rod at worst.
No, you're not expecting too much. But you do need to learn more about the physics of a guitar, and learn how to figure out the physics of equipment you're less familiar with (the Badass bridge for example) and the nitty gritty of working on fenders and in particular, older instruments. Just a learning curve, not an impossible feat of mystical sorcery.
Next time lay down some protective stuff under the screws and use a rust lubricant like this: http://www.wd40specialist.com/products/penetrating-oil
Probably does no favours for any kind of finish, so make sure you use a protective something under where you're going to be spraying it. Either that or just remove the whole bridge, lube it up away from the guitar, clean it up using naphtha or some other kind of solvent, and then give the screws a quick rinse in a screw lubricant. Then set them aside on a paper towel to dry off the excess, and wipe em up a bit before reassembling and remounting the bridge.
Old rods/nuts will often require lubrication of the threads. You can use a spray lubricant like WD-40, but be careful about the finish, obviously. It will eat through lacquer, but it just sits on top of polyurethane (still is a b!tch to clean up though). You only need a little to lubricate the threads, don't flood the whole truss rod channel.
String tension bowing a neck that is straight when unstrung is completely normal. PHYSICS man. It's just probably a bit more noticeable on a bass because the string tension from bass strings is so much more than on a guitar.
Too much forward bow will do that. You could leave out the shim and get a direct neck/body connection by adjusting the truss rod so that there's a bit of back bow when unstrung, so that it's straighter when strung.
Alternatively, you could just leave it strung, downtune/loosen the strings, then adjust the neck for less forward bow. Tune up, check the string heights. Go back and forth until you achieve the neck straightness/string heights you're looking for.
Adjusting it at full string tension (totally tuned up) could put unnecessary stress on the rod/nut threads and make it difficult to adjust at best, or strip the threads or break the rod at worst.
No, you're not expecting too much. But you do need to learn more about the physics of a guitar, and learn how to figure out the physics of equipment you're less familiar with (the Badass bridge for example) and the nitty gritty of working on fenders and in particular, older instruments. Just a learning curve, not an impossible feat of mystical sorcery.
astrozombie
KatyPerryologist
Re: Trouble with 70s precision bass
It's really about the 7.25 radius. Haven't owned an instrument like that before. Everything else I understand.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It's really about the 7.25 radius. Haven't owned an instrument like that before. Everything else I understand.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
