Trying to understand speakers

Re: Trying to understand speakers

My Mesa manuals say the opposite. “Safe mismatch” is when speaker load is greater than the output tap - so, you’d run a 16ohm cab off an 8ohm tap, or an 8ohm cab off a 4ohm tap.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Whoops, yeah
 
Re: Trying to understand speakers

To add: speakers are a hugely important part of your rig... YUUUUUGE.

They are the final "EQ filter" when playing "live" (not mic'd up or DI'ing, etc).

Speakers apply a hi and lo pass to your amp's signal; along with their own individual (per model) speaker "EQ".

Change a speaker and your tone can drastically change even if you're using the exact same gear for the rest of your rig.

Amen to that! I swapped my speakers a year or two ago and quickly went through 4 different models from two different companies before I came up with "better" (to my ears) than what I started with. Each change totally altered my sound even though they were all supposedly similar speakers.
 
Re: Trying to understand speakers

Rather than start a new thread, Imma resurrect this one:

How much of a difference in tone could one expect between playing with a matching cab vs a "safe mismatch" (cab impedance = 2x amp output impedance)?
 
Last edited:
Re: Trying to understand speakers

My Belair has a 4-8-16 switch
It was on 4 and I mistakenly thought my 8 ohm speakers were 16 ohms each

I moved the switch to 8 for the 4 ohm load

The tone didn't change

The amp wasn't hurt

I did experiment a bit after I realized my mistake

Single speaker at 8 ohm
Both speakers in series 16 ohm
Both speakers in parallel 4 ohm

No change in tone
Modest change in volume ( single speaker vs dual speakers )

My Bugera G5 wants at least a 8 ohm load
With a 16 ohm speaker
And with an 8 ohm speaker
There wasn't the anticipated volume drop
But the difference in speakers was noticeable
 
Re: Trying to understand speakers

Rather than start a new thread, Imma resurrect this one:

How much of a difference in tone could one expect between playing with a matching cab vs a "safe mismatch" (cab impedance = 2x amp output impedance)?
I just want to point out that the so called “safe mismatch” only applies to Mesa and any other manufacturer that explicitly states this.

Almost all the posts I read about this treat an amplifier like an ideal voltage source amplifier, where voltage stays constant and current is proportional to load impedance. This is true for solid state amplifiers, what we all learned in school, etc.

Tube amps are closer to ideal current sources that will vary voltage with load. There are multiple taps on the output transformer to match the speaker load with the load that the tubes require. Also, if you are thinking it through, a transformer “reflects” the load impedance to the tubes. So as speaker impedance increases, the transformer reflects this as a smaller impedance to the output tubes. Either way, they are expecting a certain impedance, hence the various taps.

As a final “gut check”, ask your self these two questions.
1. On a solid state amp, what theoretical load is fatal? SHORT
-For a solid state amp as you use smaller and smaller loads you are approaching a short, which is a failure condition.
2. On a tube amp, what “load” is fatal? OPEN (we all are taught not to run a tube amp without a load)
-For a tube amp, as you use larger and larger loads you are approaching theoretical Open.

Depending on the output stage design and output transformer design/robustness, some level of mismatch may be ok, or it may not. That’s why I say check with the manufacturer. A doubling of impedance may be ok on a Mesa but not on a Bugera. At some mismatch it will cause damage, so verify what that “safe mismatch” is with the manufacturer.
 
Last edited:
Re: Trying to understand speakers

I'm an idiot (again). After reading the manual for the amp in question, turns there is in fact the option of connecting a 16 ohm cab to it.

Noticeable difference, would in this case be the answer to my question [emoji28]
 
Re: Trying to understand speakers

You also have to remember that amp output ratings are usually overstated---100 watts from a quartet of EL34 in Class AB is at max dissipation, which nobody designs into an amp.
 
Re: Trying to understand speakers

You also have to remember that amp output ratings are usually overstated---100 watts from a quartet of EL34 in Class AB is at max dissipation, which nobody designs into an amp.

This isn’t entirely true. My old 1973 Traynor YBA 45-watt 2x 6CA7 and my buddies 1968 Park 50-watt 2x EL34 actually put out closer to 90 watts when dimed. My Traynor is louder than my HiWatt DR-103 100-watt. Newer 100-watt Marshalls that have an effects loop often put out no more than 80 watts.

The 15-ohm vs 16-ohm discrepancy is due to the legacy 15-ohm rating used before speaker companies standardized on 16-ohm. Speaker impedance is really just a loose average because impedance actually varies by frequency of program material it’s reproducing.
 
Re: Trying to understand speakers

right, those numbers are "clean" power, when the amp is folding back on itself and roaring, at least the old ones are putting out a lot of power. ive blown 50w speakers with a 20w amp
 
Back
Top