Tuning stability : nut, trees, saddles and nut files.

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On a regular non locking trem. I watched years ago a luthier teach that you bend all the strings for a return point.
Assuming the nut is cut correctly. You would strat by stretching in your strings real good. Then at each saddle just ahead of were the string exits push the string down good a couple tines to sharpen that bend. Then push down real good on both sides of the nut real good. Then were the strings exit the tuner capstan bend the string sideways to sharpen the exit bend were tge string comes off the capstan. Do all strings.
This creates a return point for each string to return to. After whammy diving etc if the guitar goes out a little just pull up the bar it goes right back in.
The luthier was doing shit with that bar that looked like one of Blackmores temper tantrums...then hed pull the bar up and nice in tune. Ive tried it for what little trem I use and it worked.

I know what you talking. Actually, I started doing this recently, having learned it from a luthier. The first time I did this was on my bass. It turned out that after putting new strings on, my action was higher. The new string was pushed up through the nut. I simply pressed it in that spot and it bent into the correct position.
And Blackmore also stayed in Strat tuning. Apparently, there are many subtleties worth paying attention to, and you can stay in tune. I've never liked the sound of Floyd Rose/Edge guitars. There are guys who think it sounds great, but I always preferred my hardtail or vintage tremolo.