Silence Kid
New member
So mine is tilted right now for up-bend and works fine; wondering if anyone thinks there's a specified "right" way to do this or what might be different in my life if I set it parallel/floating instead.
Two Point Strat: Parallel or Tilt?
- Thread starter Silence Kid
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BriGuy1968
New member
Two Point Strat: Parallel or Tilt?
Mine’s parallel (non-recessed) and works fine. Of course it’s a partscaster instead of a real Strat, but the rout’s the same.
It stays in tune fine in either direction (I have locking tuners as well) but I’ve noticed that there’s not a lot of travel available. Not a big deal to me since I barely use it and even then only for the occasional slight “wobble.”
I have no idea if there’s a specific “right” way to do it, but the OCD part of me likes to look down at a trem and see PARALLEL! [emoji848]
Mine’s parallel (non-recessed) and works fine. Of course it’s a partscaster instead of a real Strat, but the rout’s the same.
It stays in tune fine in either direction (I have locking tuners as well) but I’ve noticed that there’s not a lot of travel available. Not a big deal to me since I barely use it and even then only for the occasional slight “wobble.”
I have no idea if there’s a specific “right” way to do it, but the OCD part of me likes to look down at a trem and see PARALLEL! [emoji848]
Last edited:
metalchurch79
New member
Re: Two Point Strat: Parallel or Tilt?
I like mine parallel and floating (2pt trem), well maybe a slight more than parallel is fine, but never the other way and never flush and most certainly never blocked.
I like mine parallel and floating (2pt trem), well maybe a slight more than parallel is fine, but never the other way and never flush and most certainly never blocked.
Silence Kid
New member
Re: Two Point Strat: Parallel or Tilt?
Long ago I set up a friend's 90s Strat Plus with a parallel/float. No issues there; you can just back the post screws off and go. I don't remember specifics on how much travel was available vs. tilting but it makes sense that parallel would give reduced range vs. a typical tilt (unless you got crazy with neck angle.)
Part of me feels like experimenting but there's part of me that says "if it's not broke..." (Then I usually buy a new freaking guitar to experiment on.)
Long ago I set up a friend's 90s Strat Plus with a parallel/float. No issues there; you can just back the post screws off and go. I don't remember specifics on how much travel was available vs. tilting but it makes sense that parallel would give reduced range vs. a typical tilt (unless you got crazy with neck angle.)
Part of me feels like experimenting but there's part of me that says "if it's not broke..." (Then I usually buy a new freaking guitar to experiment on.)
VinceT
New member
Re: Two Point Strat: Parallel or Tilt?
Yup, Wilkinson’s are designed to be parallel, with the posts raising them off the face of the guitar.
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Yup, Wilkinson’s are designed to be parallel, with the posts raising them off the face of the guitar.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
PFDarkside
of the Forum
Re: Two Point Strat: Parallel or Tilt?
Tilt for float on three of mine, if decked then they are parallel. That way I can go between decked and floating pretty easily during a setup.
Tilt for float on three of mine, if decked then they are parallel. That way I can go between decked and floating pretty easily during a setup.
ItsaBass
New member
Re: Two Point Strat: Parallel or Tilt?
I prefer the bridge plate to be floating as close to the neck angle as possible (which is often flat, but not necessarily, depending on shims used and how truly the neck pocket is routed), and to also be high enough to pull up (which is mostly how I use my vibratos).
To start, the angle of the bridge plate is set using the springs. Then, the lowest string saddle should be as close to decked as you can get it without any interference from the adjustable bridge posts. Then pre-set the rest of the saddle heights based on fretboard radius. Then bridge height is set with the two bridge posts (two posts always kept at equal heights) to the string height that's good for that lowest saddle. Then the other saddles are individually adjusted as needed.
I prefer the bridge plate to be floating as close to the neck angle as possible (which is often flat, but not necessarily, depending on shims used and how truly the neck pocket is routed), and to also be high enough to pull up (which is mostly how I use my vibratos).
To start, the angle of the bridge plate is set using the springs. Then, the lowest string saddle should be as close to decked as you can get it without any interference from the adjustable bridge posts. Then pre-set the rest of the saddle heights based on fretboard radius. Then bridge height is set with the two bridge posts (two posts always kept at equal heights) to the string height that's good for that lowest saddle. Then the other saddles are individually adjusted as needed.
JB_From_Hell
Jomo's Nimions
Re: Two Point Strat: Parallel or Tilt?
Mine is an ‘87 Standard, with the bridge tilted forward quite a bit, ala Jeff Beck. I used to fight keeping Fender bridges in tune, because I had them decked for down only. After utilizing Carl Verheyen’s method of setup, I can go nuts with it and no issues. My guitar plays better, sounds better, and stays in tune better floating forward.
Mine is an ‘87 Standard, with the bridge tilted forward quite a bit, ala Jeff Beck. I used to fight keeping Fender bridges in tune, because I had them decked for down only. After utilizing Carl Verheyen’s method of setup, I can go nuts with it and no issues. My guitar plays better, sounds better, and stays in tune better floating forward.
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