UV Curable Guitar Finish

Re: UV Curable Guitar Finish

That depends to a large extent on how aou store /care for the instruments. Nitro finishes that are not stored in a relatively controlled environment (no sudden shifts in humidity or temperature, a case is a huge help here) will very slowly but consistently shrink, until the point where the surface cant srink any more and the lacquer then develops the fabled "checking", and it will continue to grow more yellow over time (most noticable on a white guitar obviously). The checking speeds up considerably when the temperature and humidity are uncontrolled and can shift dramatically (opening windows in the winter, for example).

Well cared for and in a controlled environment, your instruments will show minimal if any variation in cosmetics in 15 years. But if you leave them all out all year on stands and open and close windows "randomly", even the poly finishes will eventually develop cracks;)
True. My concern lies with the aging of any non nitro finish. Some poly colors start to go gray rather than getting darker like nitro.
 
Re: UV Curable Guitar Finish

It's funny this came up. I have gallons of Seagrave yet I finished my last four guitars with shellac (French Polish, hand rubbed, yea the rottenstone bit) with Tru Oil on the necks. I must be getting old or the corks smell better this way.
Peace and Music,
PC
 
Re: UV Curable Guitar Finish

It's funny this came up. I have gallons of Seagrave yet I finished my last four guitars with shellac (French Polish, hand rubbed, yea the rottenstone bit) with Tru Oil on the necks. I must be getting old or the corks smell better this way.
Peace and Music,
PC

OOH, I haven´t done a French in years..... I think I need to start a project before I lose my touch, thanks for reminding me :)
 
Re: UV Curable Guitar Finish

How much would the equipment be Evan? VERY interested. Just show them that video I posted (with the owner's permission of course) and they would at least have interest.

But the whole "does it effect sound" thing, a finish is a finish. It is meant to protect the guitar, and a proper finish (preferably thin), of any kind will not inhibit sound quality. I'm with Zerb, it is about thickness, but oil would have the least dampening effect.

Personally, I really like Tung oil, gunstock wax, and thin polyurethane finishes for their qualities. I'm a very small minority that hates nitro; as I hate the dull or glossy feel and LOVE satin and finishes that you can't even feel. Sure, you could use 400 grit sandpaper or 000 to 0000 steel wool to smooth it out, but you have to re-sand it every week (for me).
 
Re: UV Curable Guitar Finish

Why do I get the feeling "Myaccount876" is wise beyond the reality of a 15yr old...LOL
 
Re: UV Curable Guitar Finish

Bludave- I lived on LI for many years. CHRISTIAN is WOW par excell in the Monteleone class of the best.I dig!! I lived in Long Beach for many years. PM
 
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Re: UV Curable Guitar Finish

How much would the equipment be Evan? VERY interested.

From the company I'm repping, the basic 110-volt handheld UV light unit is under $3K, the 240-volt version is under $6K, and the programmable guitar cabinet (the one PRS uses) is under $30K. If you click on the link in my signature, you can see it.

Thanks for asking!
 
Re: UV Curable Guitar Finish

True. My concern lies with the aging of any non nitro finish. Some poly colors start to go gray rather than getting darker like nitro.

Nitro doesn't always get darker. I guess it has to do with how the guitar is finished. Lake Placid Blue tends to turn green, I've seen versions that look almost Seafoam but it also vary's depending on the base color. Gold tends to get darker due to the leaf turning green over time.
 
Re: UV Curable Guitar Finish

From the company I'm repping, the basic 110-volt handheld UV light unit is under $3K, the 240-volt version is under $6K, and the programmable guitar cabinet (the one PRS uses) is under $30K. If you click on the link in my signature, you can see it.

Thanks for asking!

Hmmm, the pricing on the 240V strikes me as a bit "inflated", Evan... with all due respect I think any european in his right mind would buy the 110 and a big step-up tranny for 100 bucks and save 2,9k, because that´s a total savings of well over 3k when one factors in import duties, and the difference in use would be effectively zero. Unless these things are sucking so much power they need to be on 3-phase anyway, but there are trannies for that, too IIRC... :boggled:

Nitro doesn't always get darker. I guess it has to do with how the guitar is finished. Lake Placid Blue tends to turn green, I've seen versions that look almost Seafoam but it also vary's depending on the base color. Gold tends to get darker due to the leaf turning green over time.

+1, as a rule, nitro yellows, but doesn´t directly darken per se.
 
Re: UV Curable Guitar Finish

Hmmm, the pricing on the 240V strikes me as a bit "inflated", Evan... with all due respect I think any european in his right mind would buy the 110 and a big step-up tranny for 100 bucks and save 2,9k, because that´s a total savings of well over 3k when one factors in import duties, and the difference in use would be effectively zero. Unless these things are sucking so much power they need to be on 3-phase anyway, but there are trannies for that, too IIRC... :boggled:

The 240V isn't European specific. We Americans have 110V ( ~120V) in our houses and 220V (~ 240V) in our garages. I'm betting it's a heavier duty unit, not just a power issue.
 
Re: UV Curable Guitar Finish

The 240V isn't European specific. We Americans have 110V ( ~120V) in our houses and 220V (~ 240V) in our garages. I'm betting it's a heavier duty unit, not just a power issue.

Good point. I was using this as a reference: http://www.spdiuv.com/curing_uv_power-shot.htm

According to that, thit´s auto ranging to begin with, which I understand as "dual voltage capable with automatic switching", which now that I think about it confuses me even more..... because that would mean ther is no difference at all and the units are physically identical.. :boggled:

Though just for my information, 240 in garages is a more recent development, right? IIRC all the outlets in Mattoon, IL were 110 when I was visiiting in '96. But I could be mistaken...
 
Re: UV Curable Guitar Finish

Nitro doesn't always get darker. I guess it has to do with how the guitar is finished. Lake Placid Blue tends to turn green, I've seen versions that look almost Seafoam but it also vary's depending on the base color. Gold tends to get darker due to the leaf turning green over time.

Nitro clear coats do get darker, because they get yellow. But some pigments fade.
 
Re: UV Curable Guitar Finish

Good point. I was using this as a reference: http://www.spdiuv.com/curing_uv_power-shot.htm

According to that, thit´s auto ranging to begin with, which I understand as "dual voltage capable with automatic switching", which now that I think about it confuses me even more..... because that would mean ther is no difference at all and the units are physically identical.. :boggled:

Though just for my information, 240 in garages is a more recent development, right? IIRC all the outlets in Mattoon, IL were 110 when I was visiiting in '96. But I could be mistaken...

Depends on the garage, and what you plan on doing with it. My dad always made sure his garages had 220V to run welders and whatnot. It's basically two 110V lines. My last house just had 110V in the garage, but I have 220V here.


If you go here:

http://www.cureuv.com/total-cure-power-shot-1100-uv-curing-system.html

add it to the cart, the 110V and 220V versions are the same price.

It puts out 1100 watts.

This one:

http://www.cureuv.com/total-cure-power-shot-2400-tabletop-uv-curing-system.html

puts out 2400 watts and runs on 220V.
 
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Re: UV Curable Guitar Finish

Taylor Guitars has been using UV cure finishes for many years. As far as 220V in houses in the USA, all clothes dryers are 208/220V, achieved by combining two 110V line that are of opposite phase with one of them being used in place of the neutral in a standard 110V circuit.
 
Re: UV Curable Guitar Finish

Depends on the garage, and what you plan on doing with it. My dad always made sure his garages had 220V to run welders and whatnot. It's basically two 110V lines. My last house just had 110V in the garage, but I have 220V here.


If you go here:

http://www.cureuv.com/total-cure-power-shot-1100-uv-curing-system.html

add it to the cart, the 110V and 220V versions are the same price.

It puts out 1100 watts.

This one:

http://www.cureuv.com/total-cure-power-shot-2400-tabletop-uv-curing-system.html

puts out 2400 watts and runs on 220V.

AAH, thanks. So it appears I shoud simply attribute my confusion to
Evan Skopp said:
This is a new area for me and I'm trying to gather as much information as possible to educate myself to be a better salesman and offer better customer service.
:D

It´s all good, Evan :beerchug:
 
Re: UV Curable Guitar Finish

A little bit off-topic but ESET Internet Security blocks the site. Here's what I get:

ESET Smart Security
Access denied

Details:
Web page: http://www.spdiuv.com
Comment: Access to the web page was blocked by ESET Smart Security. The web page is on the list of websites with potentially dangerous content.

On the matter of finishes, I have a lot less experience than professionals but I have had owned guitars with pretty much all types of finishes and my personal experience seems to agree with most here.
The finish I love the most under my hands is Tru Oil (or Tung Oil, can't tell the difference to the touch or looks) with Poly feeling the most like a toy (plasticky) the way it's applied in mid/low-end mass produced guitars and nitro sitting somewhere in the middle, it feels more real and looks better but I don't really like how it gets a tad rubbery after some time. Now high-end guitars finished with poly still look like the cheaper poly-finished guitars but don't have that cheap plasticky feel to them. Sorry I can't really put it into words exactly.

IMO/IME the one that is best compromise from the "hard finishes" looks and feel-wise is prolly a thinly applied coat of a hard (poly) finish but if feel is paramount then an oil-based finish can't be beat (but can't be dyed/colored either).
 
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