WANTED - Tele parts
- Thread starter The Dali
- Start date
ItsaBass
New member
Re: WANTED - Tele parts
Here is the text from an ad I have up:
I also have a used (with scratches) w/b/w 8-hole standard Tele pickguard for sale for $10.
There are very slight differences between the G&L control plate and the Fender control plate, which can be easily remedied and/or dealt with:
1. It is wider than the Fender part by about 1/16 inch. As such you need to trim about 1/32 inch off of each side of the half-moon pickguard cutout in order to fit it. That, of course dedicates that guard to that guitar (if you are anal). If you want the plate and the guard, I can trim the guard to fit for you.
2. The mounting screw holes are about 1/16 of an inch farther apart on the G&L plate. That's fine if you are starting a build from scratch, but they won't line up perfectly with pre-existing Fender holes.
3. The knobs on G&Ls are placed slightly farther back on the plate than they are on a Fender. This is actually an improvement IMO, as you can get to the switch more easily.
4. The holes for the switch screws are countersunk. Flat-bottomed screw heads still work, however. That's what I used when I had this plate loaded.
5. The plate is slightly thicker than a Fender plate. Again, an improvement over the Fender part.
I also have an awesome Fender licensed, custom made, '50's style one-piece maple, deep U neck (just shy of 1 inch thick) with a 9.5 radius, clear nitro lacquer, and skinny frets. It's never been installed, and not really for sale. I'd have to get $300 plus shipping to make me want to part with it.
Here is the text from an ad I have up:
I also have a used (with scratches) w/b/w 8-hole standard Tele pickguard for sale for $10.
There are very slight differences between the G&L control plate and the Fender control plate, which can be easily remedied and/or dealt with:
1. It is wider than the Fender part by about 1/16 inch. As such you need to trim about 1/32 inch off of each side of the half-moon pickguard cutout in order to fit it. That, of course dedicates that guard to that guitar (if you are anal). If you want the plate and the guard, I can trim the guard to fit for you.
2. The mounting screw holes are about 1/16 of an inch farther apart on the G&L plate. That's fine if you are starting a build from scratch, but they won't line up perfectly with pre-existing Fender holes.
3. The knobs on G&Ls are placed slightly farther back on the plate than they are on a Fender. This is actually an improvement IMO, as you can get to the switch more easily.
4. The holes for the switch screws are countersunk. Flat-bottomed screw heads still work, however. That's what I used when I had this plate loaded.
5. The plate is slightly thicker than a Fender plate. Again, an improvement over the Fender part.
I also have an awesome Fender licensed, custom made, '50's style one-piece maple, deep U neck (just shy of 1 inch thick) with a 9.5 radius, clear nitro lacquer, and skinny frets. It's never been installed, and not really for sale. I'd have to get $300 plus shipping to make me want to part with it.
Last edited:
