What is your next pedal going to be?

I haven't plugged them in yet. I've been busy with my Epi LP Custom. I tuned it to E-flat, set the intonation, and now I'm working on getting Appetite tones out of it. So the MXR Custom Badass '78 Distortion is doing a good job with it.

The Morpher (fish pedal) is supposed to be a Suhr Riot clone. I don't remember what a Suhr Riot sounds like, but it looked like a cool pedal for $22.99.

Suhr Riot is a MIAB, one of the early ones that was actually good. Excellent pedals, IMO.
 
Well, of course there is a range depending on the settings but it always sounded like a Plexi to me.

I'm not sure if they set out to design it as MIAB, but it nails the cranked Plexi distortion characteristics.

One of the guys I play with sometimes has one. He usually plays PRS guitars with Peavey Classic 30 and Classic 50 amps. If you were to put on a blindfold, you might think that you were hearing a Marshall half stack.
 
I'd like to see a really high-quality and sonically faithful Melter clone, so that I could leave my valuable original at home and not have to answer for having bought the thing. Maybe Boss could do a Waza Craft.

A Waza-Melter lol! They already have the dc-2w and the dm-2w, so would they do another pink-shade model?
 
Xotic SL Drive. Wasn't expecting to buy a pedal but after check out some of the MIAB pedals in Mincer's thread, I had narrowed it down to a few and it was between the SL and the Ramble FX Marvel 3.
 
I fall victim to this mindset every week it seems and end up finding something...lol.

It happened to me again. Picked up a Dirty Haggard Audio "Tone Benzer".

Dirty Haggard Audio makes some seriously cool pedals! Handmade in the US and a number of them cost between $70.00 and $90.00. New!

I've bought the Tone Benzer, 797 OD and 3904 Fuzz in the last few weeks.

Good stuff and worth checking out.
 
Just in....Sweetwater special:

SD1 & TO800 for $60

Just to have a Behringer to play with, and getting an older SD1 modded.
 
Turning it into a Tube Screamer.

Curious what info you have on that. I've done this conversion myself. If you need some notes, I can share them with you. It took comparing both schematics and making note if each part and then singling out the differences. There's control pot value differences between the two as well but I left mine alone. It still sounded great as the stock Boss value.
 
Curious what info you have on that. I've done this conversion myself. If you need some notes, I can share them with you. It took comparing both schematics and making note if each part and then singling out the differences. There's control pot value differences between the two as well but I left mine alone. It still sounded great as the stock Boss value.

Cool. I have "My Guy" on it. That will leave me with:

Joyo TO800
TS5
TS7
TS9 (90's)
Bad Monkey
SD1 New Stock
SD1 Monster Mods
SD1 - TS9 Conversion; Just for fun.

Totally appreciate the notes for my guy to see....


 
Cool. I have "My Guy" on it. That will leave me with:

Joyo TO800
TS5
TS7
TS9 (90's)
Bad Monkey
SD1 New Stock
SD1 Monster Mods
SD1 - TS9 Conversion; Just for fun.

Totally appreciate the notes for my guy to see....



Cool. I have to say I've never seen that video by Brian but I did exactly what he did with comparing the schematics so my list is gonna match his. I just didn't change the pots and left the diodes as they were. I pulled this right from my notes.
  • C1 change from 0.047uf to 0.02uf.
  • C2 change from 0.018uf to 1uf NP (non-polarity).
  • C4 change from 0.018uf to 0.22uf.
  • C6 remove.
  • C7 change from 1uf electrolytic to 1uf NP (non-polarity).
  • C8 change from 0.047uf to 0.1uf.
  • C10 change from 1uf to 10uf.
  • D6 remove and jumper.
  • R1 change from 10k to 1k.
  • R2 change from 470k to 510k.
  • R4 change from 100k to 10k.
  • R5 change from 33k to 51k.
  • R7 change from 10k to 1k.
  • R10 change from 4.7k to 1k.
  • R16 change from 1k to 100 ohms.
  • R17 change from 100k to 10k.
 
Back
Top