What type/size of pots for 335?

12guitdown

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Trying to get everything ready for a complete overhaul on my stock Tokai es130(a faithful replica of a '59 335). Going for a c5/jazz b combo. But still need a little more info on a couple things.

For the pots, will I need regular length shafts or long shafts?

Will the regular sized pots fit through the F-hole? Or will I need mini?
note; I'll be using dpdt on the tones for serial splits too.

3-way toggle switchcraft. Is the standard lp style ok? Or do I need a shorter one for clearance?

I want a modern sound. does it make any difference in caps? Sprague, Hovland or ceramics?

The neck will have 500k pots with a .022. And for the bridge I'm gonna start with a 250k tone/500k vol. with a .022. Is the .022 for the bridge OK? Or do I need a different value?

Thanks, G
 
Re: What type/size of pots for 335?

Trying to get everything ready for a complete overhaul on my stock Tokai es130(a faithful replica of a '59 335). Going for a c5/jazz b combo. But still need a little more info on a couple things.

For the pots, will I need regular length shafts or long shafts?

Will the regular sized pots fit through the F-hole? Or will I need mini?
note; I'll be using dpdt on the tones for serial splits too.

3-way toggle switchcraft. Is the standard lp style ok? Or do I need a shorter one for clearance?

I want a modern sound. does it make any difference in caps? Sprague, Hovland or ceramics?

The neck will have 500k pots with a .022. And for the bridge I'm gonna start with a 250k tone/500k vol. with a .022. Is the .022 for the bridge OK? Or do I need a different value?

Thanks, G
I don't know the answer to all of your questions but for the caps I'd go with .022 mylar 100 volts.
 
Re: What type/size of pots for 335?

The things I learned from recently refitting my Ibanez AS83.

Trying to get everything ready for a complete overhaul on my stock Tokai es130(a faithful replica of a '59 335). Going for a c5/jazz b combo. But still need a little more info on a couple things.

I want a modern sound. does it make any difference in caps? Sprague, Hovland or ceramics?
No. The caps will give you varying amounts of treble roll-off, mostly.
From what I've read, the quality of cap(i.e., the more expensive ones) will give you a better pot taper but there is no real discernible(YMMV) differences.

Not sure what "modern sound" means, but I'm thinking that has more to do with the pickups and the amp/settings you use than anything as mundane as pots and caps.

For the pots, will I need regular length shafts or long shafts?
Regular length.
Long shaft pots are designed for carved top bodies.

Will the regular sized pots fit through the F-hole? Or will I need mini?
note; I'll be using dpdt on the tones for serial splits too.
AFAIK, the only dpdt pots out there are mini pots.
That being said, there are at least 2 different *diameter* dpdt pots.
Check that the pots you buy are the same diameter as the holes in your guitar.
And yes, you should be able to fit them thru the f-hole no problem.
Just go slowly and be careful.
That said, from what I understand, there are some 335 models that allow access thru the pickup routes.


3-way toggle switchcraft. Is the standard lp style ok? Or do I need a shorter one for clearance?
Short or right-angled... SG style, I think.
But in a pinch, you could *probably* fit a standard in there... depends on body depth.

The neck will have 500k pots with a .022. And for the bridge I'm gonna start with a 250k tone/500k vol. with a .022. Is the .022 for the bridge OK? Or do I need a different value?
Thanks, G
I say experiment until you get what you like.
Could get a bit pricey, but that's the only way to know for sure.
Typical cap values are .01 and .022 and .047.
Typically, Les Pauls(humbuckers) use .022's and Strats(single coils) .047's.
You could wire up one of the dpdt's to switch between cap values if you like.

If you're looking for DPDT fun, try a variation of the Jimmy Paige mod floating around out there. Essentially, it is wired for the volume dpdt's to switch your humbuckers between series and parallel, which gives you a thinner, more single coil sound and wires the tone dpdt's to put the humbuckers in and out of phase and in series and parallel with each other.
Without getting too esoteric, it's probably the most versatile mod out there for a 2HB 2v2t setup.

Couple of things in general:
Make yourself a cardboard template to mount the pots, jack and switch into. This will make the wiring much easier and you can test things as you go.
Don't forget to wire up the bridge ground wire.
It can be easier to use surgical tubing(at your local big box in the aquarium supply section) to pull and position the pots and jack thru the body to their respective holes.
If you have to drill out holes for your pots I recommend a step drill bit.
Harbor Freight has them cheap.

But mostly, take your time, don't drink while you're doing it(ha) and don't let it get your frustrated.
Good luck.
:)

MM
 
Re: What type/size of pots for 335?

I have a ES 130 too. I changed the pickups to Ants (bridge with a full charged A2) and put in a new output jack - its crappy. By the way: on the tokaiforum.com there are a lot of guys who know their ES 130 well.
 
Re: What type/size of pots for 335?

The neck will have 500k pots with a .022. And for the bridge I'm gonna start with a 250k tone/500k vol. with a .022. Is the .022 for the bridge OK? Or do I need a different value?


So for the bridge would you recommend a .022 or .01? And what's the sonic difference as the pot is being rolled back?
 
Re: What type/size of pots for 335?

I have a ES 130 too. I changed the pickups to Ants (bridge with a full charged A2) and put in a new output jack - its crappy. By the way: on the tokaiforum.com there are a lot of guys who know their ES 130 well.

Thanks. I am a Tokai forum member already. Good stuff.
 
Re: What type/size of pots for 335?

I rewired dozens of 335's, and done everything you're going through many times, so here's the scoop:

1) Regular pots are perfect. Long shafts are made for LP's. In a 335, your knobs will stick out way too high, as the wood top is thin.

2) I always use full size 1" pots, they fit through F holes just fine. I usually use a push-pull or two, & they fit in easily, just don't solder much on the sides (for grounds). I've put the 4 push-pull Jimmy Page system in a number of 335's. The key to hollow bodies is leave extra slack in the wires so you don't pull anything tight & pull it loose. I use a plastic-coated wire to pull the pots through.

3) I use 500K pots & .022 caps on the neck PU, both add brightness. I use 250K pots & .100 caps on the bridge, to add warmth. I hate thin, trebley bridge PU's; much rather have them full & rich sounding. For some players a 250K & 500K would be ideal on the bridge (mine could be too dark for some). Pick what brand caps you want.

4) 335's take standard 3-way toggles, which also fit through the F hole. I don't replace them unless they are shorting out (extra work for no benefit). In most 3-ways, you can push the prong conenctions to make them tighter if they don't switch right.

5) For a "modern sound" here's what I've done on my best-sounding guitar, an Epi Sheraton 355. The bridge is warm, rich, & powerful, and the neck is bright, well-defined, & good for chords and solos.

Neck - '59N with 500K pots & a .022 cap. (a JazzN, JazzB, or '59B would work well too).
Bridge - Custom 5 with 250K pots & a .100 cap.

You're on the right track. Let me know if you have more questions.
 
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