Good morning, i have a Dangelico guitar which a 335 style and im going ton install a Seymour Duncan pickups; i removed the ground wire for accident when i removed the old electronics and i wanted to solve the ground wire from the volume pot to the wire of the bridge pickup but now i realise i can't because the plastic shield so my question is if i can solder the group wire to metallic part of the cover of the brigde pickup, in order to not remove the bridge ? hope some can help me
Where to ground the wire on a 335 style guitar
- Thread starter jazzyguy
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ThreeChordWonder
New member
Please tell us which d'Angelico and which pickup or pickups you will be using.
beaubrummels
Well-known member
I don't understand specifically what the 'plastic shield' is or why that would be a problem to grounding, nor what the 'group wire' refers to, or 'metallic part of the bridge pickup' (when the baseplate and cover are typically all metallic.)
Can you diagram out what the problem is, or provide photos of what you are referring to?
Can you diagram out what the problem is, or provide photos of what you are referring to?
i going to install a pearly gates set in a Dangelico Excell guitar
i mean the plastic shield of the pickup wire; i understand that the ground wire goes from the volume pot to the bridge or where the strap lock is located or the other option is to the wire of the bridge pickup; the thing is if i do the last one i will burn the plastic of the wire of the pickup.
i dont hace a picture with me right now and im at work
beaubrummels
Well-known member
Sounds like you have the pickups installed but need to wire the ground of the bridge (the bridge of the strings on the body, not the bridge pickup), correct?
Assuming all the rest of the wiring harness was done correctly, the string bridge ground could be soldered to the back of the volume pot if it reaches or one of the other tone pots if they are closer, or to the output jack directly. I would not attempt to wire the string bridge ground to the bridge pickup wires.
Theoretically, if the string bridge ground wire was removed completely or was cut so short it won't reach the wiring harness, you could solder a jumper wire to the back plate or cover of the bridge (if it has a cover), which should be grounded. But that's not a great solution IMO. I wouldn't want to heat up the back of the pickup just to solder a wire on there.
If the string bridge ground wire was removed completely, I believe you're going to have to take the bridge off to install a new one. If the bridge is a ABR type bridge, usually the string bridge ground wire is wedged between the studs and the body wood, if I am not mistaken. (Someone can correct me on that. I've never been in the situation where I had to replace the string bridge ground wire.)
I've never heard of grounding to a strap lock - that would never work unless you ran a ground wire from the strap lock to the output jack..
Assuming all the rest of the wiring harness was done correctly, the string bridge ground could be soldered to the back of the volume pot if it reaches or one of the other tone pots if they are closer, or to the output jack directly. I would not attempt to wire the string bridge ground to the bridge pickup wires.
Theoretically, if the string bridge ground wire was removed completely or was cut so short it won't reach the wiring harness, you could solder a jumper wire to the back plate or cover of the bridge (if it has a cover), which should be grounded. But that's not a great solution IMO. I wouldn't want to heat up the back of the pickup just to solder a wire on there.
If the string bridge ground wire was removed completely, I believe you're going to have to take the bridge off to install a new one. If the bridge is a ABR type bridge, usually the string bridge ground wire is wedged between the studs and the body wood, if I am not mistaken. (Someone can correct me on that. I've never been in the situation where I had to replace the string bridge ground wire.)
I've never heard of grounding to a strap lock - that would never work unless you ran a ground wire from the strap lock to the output jack..
ThreeChordWonder
New member
Peel back the plastic outer cover to expose five internal wires. Four will have colored plastic insulation, one will be bare.
Standard Seymour Duncan wiring is as follows:
Standard Seymour Duncan wiring is as follows:
- Green and bare get grounded to the back of a volume or tone pot.
- Red and white get joined together and the ends insulated, UNLESS you're doing a coil split with a push-pull.
- Black is hot and goes to your selector switch or volume pot input connection.
oh yeah, so i can solder the ground wire to the bare or to the red an white cables?
thanks for your explanation, how can i remove the stud from the tailpiece or the bridge ? i don't know what tool i have to use
beaubrummels
Well-known member
On a hollowbody/semi-hollow, I'd have to defer to someone like ICT Goober or someone else who does repairs for a living. I've never done it personally, as I mentioned before.
Also, your prior comment - you would never solder a ground wire to the red/white of a humbucker pickup. That would turn it into a single coil permanently.
Also, your prior comment - you would never solder a ground wire to the red/white of a humbucker pickup. That would turn it into a single coil permanently.
eclecticsynergy
Well-known member
Yah, definitely not to the red & white. But you can ground it to the bare wire.
ThreeChordWonder
New member
The bare wire is the base plate / shield ground. It does not carry the pickup signal. That is what the green wire does. The wires are separate and different, because in some wiring schemes the pickup ground has to go to a switch. For example, series /parallel switching or phase shifting. The bare wire ALWAYS goes to ground, however.
The red and white wires join the two coils inside the humbucker to each other. Unless you're doing coil splitting, they always get soldered to each other, AND NOTHING ELSE, and the joined ends should be insulated with tape, or better, heat shrink.
The red and white wires join the two coils inside the humbucker to each other. Unless you're doing coil splitting, they always get soldered to each other, AND NOTHING ELSE, and the joined ends should be insulated with tape, or better, heat shrink.
