I'm trying to figure out which, if any Triple Shots would fit a Guild Starfire IV. The top is not carved like an LP but it is slightly rounded. I'd go with the flat Trembucker rings, but the Guild does use a tall mounting ring for the bridge PU. I think the flat ring would work for the neck PU, but looks like the only tall one is the curved LP ring. So would the bridge PU be able to be adjusted high enough with the thin flat ring, or would the cuved LP ring fit OK? Has anybody tried any of these options?
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Which Triple shot mounting rings for Guilt Starefire IV
- Thread starter Zentipede
- Start date
F
Funkfingers
Guest
Re: Which Triple shot mounting rings for Guilt Starefire IV
Welcome to the forum.
For the pressed top Guild, use the "LP" Triple Shots for both positions. These have a better chance of being persuaded to take up the required curvature by the fastening screws than the completely flat versions. The additional height of the bridge/Treble position TS will compensate for the neck pitch angle whereas a flat TS would leave the pickup sticking up, unprotected, like some Gibson SGs.
Welcome to the forum.
For the pressed top Guild, use the "LP" Triple Shots for both positions. These have a better chance of being persuaded to take up the required curvature by the fastening screws than the completely flat versions. The additional height of the bridge/Treble position TS will compensate for the neck pitch angle whereas a flat TS would leave the pickup sticking up, unprotected, like some Gibson SGs.
Re: Which Triple shot mounting rings for Guilt Starefire IV
Thanks FunkFingers.
Welcome to the forum.
For the pressed top Guild, use the "LP" Triple Shots for both positions. These have a better chance of being persuaded to take up the required curvature by the fastening screws than the completely flat versions. The additional height of the bridge/Treble position TS will compensate for the neck pitch angle whereas a flat TS would leave the pickup sticking up, unprotected, like some Gibson SGs.
Thanks FunkFingers.
Re: Which Triple shot mounting rings for Guilt Starefire IV
So I ordered a set of triple shots and push-pull pots for my Guild Starfire IV and went to work. The Starfire presents a couple of problems that some readers may want to be made aware of. For one the ring mounting screw holes don't quite line up, so I could only get two screws in to each mounting ring. Second, the Guild PUPs have three machine screw adjustment holes- one below which lines up with the triple shot ring, and two above that do not line up. So, drill a couple new holes on the ring, right? No, you can't because the triple shot circuit board this in the way! There is room to drill new holes on the bottom of the ring, So, I drilled them there and flipped the PUP 180 degrees. All looked good, but when I went to install in the guitar the routed holes in the guitar won't accept the filped PUPs because of the wider tab on the PUP for the two hole config. Ahhhh, now it's 1am and I'm getting frustrated! My solution was to keep the PUPs in the original orientation and flip the mounting rings 180 degrees, so the switches are on the bottom instead of the top as they were designed. Turns out I like the switches on the bottom- feels more natural, as I'm used to all my knobs and switches on the bottom. The only issue is that the bridge PUP rings are angled away from the strings instead of with them, but I think that's a minor issue. However, I do have an other unrelated issue-I think I wired something wrong because when I pull the Neck Volume pot up when I have the Bridge PUP selected I have no sound at all! doesn't matter what other knobs and switches I push or pull as long as I select for the Bridge PUP only and pull up the Neck Volume pot to engage Parallel mode (or is up series), I get silence. Anyone have ideas, I hate to pull all the electronics out of that guitar again, but something is wrong.Thanks FunkFingers.
F
Funkfingers
Guest
Re: Which Triple shot mounting rings for Guilt Starefire IV
How old is your Gulid? I would be tempted to solve the three mounting screw issue by drilling and threading the necessary central hole in the wide lug.
The remainder of this task will require the undoing of numerous screws and the reversal of both pickups all over again.
Regarding the push-pull switching issue, the up position of the switch under the NV pot must be engaging series interconnection of both pickups. I'm guessing that you have elected to link the output conductor of the bridge position Triple Shot to the "ground" end of the neck position Triple Shot.
Under these circumstances, the combined signal will emerge via the Neck PU volume and tone controls and the Neck side of the pickup selector.
In series mode, all that you will obtain from the bridge position pickup side of the control circuit is noise and interference.
How old is your Gulid? I would be tempted to solve the three mounting screw issue by drilling and threading the necessary central hole in the wide lug.
The remainder of this task will require the undoing of numerous screws and the reversal of both pickups all over again.
Regarding the push-pull switching issue, the up position of the switch under the NV pot must be engaging series interconnection of both pickups. I'm guessing that you have elected to link the output conductor of the bridge position Triple Shot to the "ground" end of the neck position Triple Shot.
Under these circumstances, the combined signal will emerge via the Neck PU volume and tone controls and the Neck side of the pickup selector.
In series mode, all that you will obtain from the bridge position pickup side of the control circuit is noise and interference.
Re: Which Triple shot mounting rings for Guilt Starefire IV
It's a 1997 and has the PUPs that were made by Seymour Duncan when Fender First acquired the Guild name. My first thought was to drill a center hole in the bracket, but the original holes were punched and threaded. Drilling would not really leave anything to thread, but maybe it would work. However, I'm also reluctant to make irreversible alterations to a nice stock guitar like the Guild, although it would be a minor one. Re. the electronics-sorry I wasn't clear on my wiring scheme. I followed the schematic on the SD Website for 2 Triple shots, 2 humbuckers, 2 vol., 2 Tone with Phase Switch and Series/Parallel Switch. So the bridge TS output conductor (Black) goes to one of the middle tabs on the Bridge Volume and the white conductor goes to the other middle tab. The only differences from the schematic was that I have a few more ground wires between the 3-way switch and some of the Pots, and my bridge ground wire is attached to the Neck Volume Pot instead of the Bridge Tone Pot. I was assuming the ground was common and extra ground wires wouldn't make a difference, but maybe I'm wrong, because I did have to add a two more ground wires (between the Neck volume and Bridge Tone Pots and another one between two other Pots, but I can't remember which) to get rid of excessive hum. Also, I kept the existing capacitors which were marked "203M" instead of using the 0.047 called for in the schematic. I have not found out yet if these are actually .047, but thought if they were in there they probably were. So, at this point I'm wondering if the extra ground wires are causing my problem. I probably should have followed the schematic exactly, but some of the extra ground wires were already there, so I just left them, but then, why would I have to add more?
It's a 1997 and has the PUPs that were made by Seymour Duncan when Fender First acquired the Guild name. My first thought was to drill a center hole in the bracket, but the original holes were punched and threaded. Drilling would not really leave anything to thread, but maybe it would work. However, I'm also reluctant to make irreversible alterations to a nice stock guitar like the Guild, although it would be a minor one. Re. the electronics-sorry I wasn't clear on my wiring scheme. I followed the schematic on the SD Website for 2 Triple shots, 2 humbuckers, 2 vol., 2 Tone with Phase Switch and Series/Parallel Switch. So the bridge TS output conductor (Black) goes to one of the middle tabs on the Bridge Volume and the white conductor goes to the other middle tab. The only differences from the schematic was that I have a few more ground wires between the 3-way switch and some of the Pots, and my bridge ground wire is attached to the Neck Volume Pot instead of the Bridge Tone Pot. I was assuming the ground was common and extra ground wires wouldn't make a difference, but maybe I'm wrong, because I did have to add a two more ground wires (between the Neck volume and Bridge Tone Pots and another one between two other Pots, but I can't remember which) to get rid of excessive hum. Also, I kept the existing capacitors which were marked "203M" instead of using the 0.047 called for in the schematic. I have not found out yet if these are actually .047, but thought if they were in there they probably were. So, at this point I'm wondering if the extra ground wires are causing my problem. I probably should have followed the schematic exactly, but some of the extra ground wires were already there, so I just left them, but then, why would I have to add more?
Re: Which Triple shot mounting rings for Guilt Starefire IV
It's a 1997 and has the PUPs that were made by Seymour Duncan when Fender First acquired the Guild name. My first thought was to drill a center hole in the bracket, but the original holes were punched and threaded. Drilling would not really leave anything to thread, but maybe it would work. However, I'm also reluctant to make irreversible alterations to a nice stock guitar like the Guild, although it would be a minor one. Re. the electronics-sorry I wasn't clear on my wiring scheme. I followed the schematic on the SD Website for 2 Triple shots, 2 humbuckers, 2 vol., 2 Tone with Phase Switch and Series/Parallel Switch. So the bridge TS output conductor (Black) goes to one of the middle tabs on the Bridge Volume and the white conductor goes to the other middle tab. The only differences from the schematic was that I have a few more ground wires between the 3-way switch and some of the Pots, and my bridge ground wire is attached to the Neck Volume Pot instead of the Bridge Tone Pot. I was assuming the ground was common and extra ground wires wouldn't make a difference, but maybe I'm wrong, because I did have to add a two more ground wires (between the Neck volume and Bridge Tone Pots and another one between two other Pots, but I can't remember which) to get rid of excessive hum. Also, I kept the existing capacitors which were marked "203M" instead of using the 0.047 called for in the schematic. I have not found out yet if these are actually .047, but thought if they were in there they probably were. So, at this point I'm wondering if the extra ground wires are causing my problem. I probably should have followed the schematic exactly, but some of the extra ground wires were already there, so I just left them, but then, why would I have to add more? Oh yeah, one more thing-I first wired the Triple Shots the standard way, matching all the colors, so you push the switches toward the coil you want to disengage, or in my case with the mounting rings upside down the switches would be pushed toward the coil you want to engage. However, oddly the neck TS was acting like it was wired using the reverse wiring option. So I rewired it using the reverse wiring option and now it operates like the Bridge TS which is wired standard. This is what I want, but what is causing this? Either the PUPs themselves are wired differently, or something else in my wiring is causing this (most likely). Why did I pick a semi-hollow body for my first attempt at this wiring scheme? It's a major PITA to pull the guts out of this thing!
It's a 1997 and has the PUPs that were made by Seymour Duncan when Fender First acquired the Guild name. My first thought was to drill a center hole in the bracket, but the original holes were punched and threaded. Drilling would not really leave anything to thread, but maybe it would work. However, I'm also reluctant to make irreversible alterations to a nice stock guitar like the Guild, although it would be a minor one. Re. the electronics-sorry I wasn't clear on my wiring scheme. I followed the schematic on the SD Website for 2 Triple shots, 2 humbuckers, 2 vol., 2 Tone with Phase Switch and Series/Parallel Switch. So the bridge TS output conductor (Black) goes to one of the middle tabs on the Bridge Volume and the white conductor goes to the other middle tab. The only differences from the schematic was that I have a few more ground wires between the 3-way switch and some of the Pots, and my bridge ground wire is attached to the Neck Volume Pot instead of the Bridge Tone Pot. I was assuming the ground was common and extra ground wires wouldn't make a difference, but maybe I'm wrong, because I did have to add a two more ground wires (between the Neck volume and Bridge Tone Pots and another one between two other Pots, but I can't remember which) to get rid of excessive hum. Also, I kept the existing capacitors which were marked "203M" instead of using the 0.047 called for in the schematic. I have not found out yet if these are actually .047, but thought if they were in there they probably were. So, at this point I'm wondering if the extra ground wires are causing my problem. I probably should have followed the schematic exactly, but some of the extra ground wires were already there, so I just left them, but then, why would I have to add more? Oh yeah, one more thing-I first wired the Triple Shots the standard way, matching all the colors, so you push the switches toward the coil you want to disengage, or in my case with the mounting rings upside down the switches would be pushed toward the coil you want to engage. However, oddly the neck TS was acting like it was wired using the reverse wiring option. So I rewired it using the reverse wiring option and now it operates like the Bridge TS which is wired standard. This is what I want, but what is causing this? Either the PUPs themselves are wired differently, or something else in my wiring is causing this (most likely). Why did I pick a semi-hollow body for my first attempt at this wiring scheme? It's a major PITA to pull the guts out of this thing!
Re: Which Triple shot mounting rings for Guilt Starefire IV
FunkFingers-I realize in the previous post I was confused about which conductor was the hot. I know now that it is the white wire. After staring at the schematic and reading your last reply, I think when the NV is pulled up the Bridge hot is connected to the Neck ground and thus the signal only goes through the NV output. So when the 3-way is selected to only receive a signal from only the BV output there will be no sound. Is this the intent of the design? If so, seems if you forget you have the series engaged and you flip to only the neck PUP you risk turning yourself off in the middle of a performance.
FunkFingers-I realize in the previous post I was confused about which conductor was the hot. I know now that it is the white wire. After staring at the schematic and reading your last reply, I think when the NV is pulled up the Bridge hot is connected to the Neck ground and thus the signal only goes through the NV output. So when the 3-way is selected to only receive a signal from only the BV output there will be no sound. Is this the intent of the design? If so, seems if you forget you have the series engaged and you flip to only the neck PUP you risk turning yourself off in the middle of a performance.
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