Wiring question

[Flint Stone]

I've got a '59/JB combo in a Squire Jagmaster with single volume and tone control. I would like to run different value caps on the neck and bridge, but the only way I know it can be done is to run concentric pots. I don't want to do this because I don't want to change out the knobs altering the appearance of the guitar.

I like the .047uf cap on the JB, but in some instances (mostly lower volume) it seems to be siphoning off a little more top end and dipping too far into the midrange on the '59 than I would like.

If there is an elegant wiring solution for this I would sure like to know!!!

 

[jumble jumble]

Re: Wiring question

What do you want to happen when both pickups are active?

 

[Artie]

Re: Wiring question

This is simple with a regular Fender style 3-way, but I'm not sure about Jagmaster wiring. Fender has the Jaguar and Jazzmaster. Is it wired like either of those?

Edit: Ok, it appears as though a Jagmaster uses an LP-style 3-way. That will be a bit more difficult. Let me think . . . :scratchch

 

[jumble jumble]

Re: Wiring question

It uses a Gibson-style 3-way toggle.

 

[Artie]

Re: Wiring question

We posted at the same time.

There's a way to do this, but it isn't ideal. Gimme a sec . . .

 

[Artie]

Re: Wiring question

File this under "experimental". In other words, it works on paper.

Some tone controls are connected directly to the volume pot with the cap going from the tone pot to ground. For this to work, you must connect the cap between the vol and tone pots, then connect the other end of the tone pot to ground. If your Jag isn't already wired that way, then its a fairly simple change. And, be sure to use a .022uf cap.

Then, simply add one more .022uf cap between the JB's hot wire, (the lug of the 3-way is a good spot), and the tone pot at the same place where the other cap is connected. For soldering ease, use both "top" terminals of the tone pot, and jumper those two together. The lead of the cap itself works perfectly for this.

So, what happens is, when the JB, or both, pups are selected, you have both caps in parallel for an effective .044 cap. When you disconnect the JB, you revert back to the .022 for the '59.

The only possible glitch is, even when the JB is disconnected, the extra cap can backfeed through the resistance, (and inductance), of the JB to ground. Kinda like a Bill Lawrence Q-filter. Might sound cool . . . might sound ef'ed up.

There's other ways we might be able to do this, but this is a simple way to start. If this doesn't work out, you can simply clip the extra cap out of the circuit and everything returns to normal Jag operation.

Artie

 

[Flint Stone]

Re: Wiring question

Artie - That sure looks like an elegant solution to me!!! I can't believe I couldn't figure this out by myself. :doh:

It has the 3way style LP switch just like the schematic you posted. I was thinking I'd have to run the pickups to the tone pot first, then to the switch, volume pot, and finally output jack. On my scribbled out schematic, the wiring looked like a noisy mess.

The only possible glitch is, even when the JB is disconnected, the extra cap can backfeed through the resistance, (and inductance), of the JB to ground. Kinda like a Bill Lawrence Q-filter. Might sound cool . . . might sound ef'ed up.

I've given some thought to this potential problem, and I'm thinking a SPST switch between the JB side of the 3way switch and the tone pot would prevent this if it occurs. If the resultant sound is similar to the Bill Lawrence Q-filter (I'm not familiar with this) it would act like an on/off switch. I think I could live with a small toggle between the volume and tone pots - I just don't want to get rid of the Fender style knobs.

When I replaced the original DD HB103's I realized that my work was far from done. It is in need of additional sheilding, and the and the stock three way keeps falling into the middle position so that will have to be replaced as well.

After I use up the strings that I just installed, I'll do some experimenting and see what happens when using the circuit as you posted it. I'd rather avoid the SPST switch, so I'll see how it sounds.

Thanks for the help!!!

 

[Artie]

Re: Wiring question

The more I look at that, the more I think it probably won't work. The JB will also be able to feed through both caps. You'll get some JB high-end when in the neck position. Again, that might be cool to tame some neck-position-mud, but it probably isn't the solution you're looking for.

Now, there is one other thing you can do, if your a "tinkerer" so to speak. In other words, if you're the kind of person who owns a Dremel Moto tool, with all the attachments . . . just piggy-back a micro-switch to one side of the 3-way to get your cap-auto-switch. I've done this before with a Tele 3-way to add a new function.

 

[jumble jumble]

Re: Wiring question

I also wondered about finding a 4PDT switch in approximately the same size as the existing toggle switch.

Alternatively, looking at the body rout, you would be able to put a blade switch in there. If you're worried about resale, you could do that by getting a new pickguard with the correct holes. If you're worried about the guitar looking any different at all, then that system would be no good for you. But it would be a way to get it working perfectly; you could have a separate cap value per position on the switch.