Wiring Question

gordon_39422

gordon_39422

New member
I have been scouring through the SD Schematics Pages, and havent found the one I need. My guitar should look like this when I am through:
L'il 59'er in the neck with Push/Pull Volume for splitting
Texas Hot Antiquity in middle
JB Jr in Bridge with Push/Pull Tone for splitting
5-way switch

Can anyone point me in the right direction, please? I may very well be overlooking the diagram, but I can't find it nonetheless. Also, with the single coil-sized humbuckers should I use 500k pots? If so, would I use both, or leave on 250k for the middle pup?

Thanks in advance for any feedback!

Have A Blessed Day!
Allen
 
Re: Wiring Question

You'll need to look at a couple different schematics to get this. But its pretty simple actually.

Use this one for the basic wiring, but don't connect anything on the right-hand side of the switch:

http://www.seymourduncan.com/website/support/schematics/hum_sing_hum_vol_tone_spl.html

That is, don't connect those red/white wires as shown. Instead, connect them like this:

http://www.seymourduncan.com/website/support/schematics/2hum_vol_3way-w-split.html

Just connect the red/white wires to the push/pull pot as shown. One other thing, you may want to move the ground on that switch to the top lug, so that you have the split function when the switch is pulled, rather than pushed.

If you're really not sure how to do all this, I can combine those diagrams into one for you. Just let me know. ;)

Artie
 
Re: Wiring Question

I appreciate the reply, Artie. I have already started the wiring with 2 separate diagrams, as you suggested. I have 250k pots right now, should I order 500k pots?

Truthfully, I may not even need push-pull pots at all, If I wire it so that 2 & 4 are split with the middle pup (top coil on neck and bridge coil in bridge), I doubt I will need to switch coils in the HB's? Any advice on that?

Also since you seem to have some experience, I have a problem with another guitar. It is an American Deluxe with a Hot rails in the bridge. I followed the diagram for installing the HB so that #4 is split with middle, but now position #1 is the same as #2, and #5 is the same as #4. #3 is okay.
I want #1 to be neck pup, #2 neck/mid, #3 mid, #4 mid/HR(split), and #5 HR.

I followed this diagram,

http://www.seymourduncan.com/website/support/schematics/3lil_hb_vol_2tones_5way.html

If you have any feedback on that, I would sincerely appreciate you input!

Thanks again, Artie.

Allen
 
Re: Wiring Question

This is sort of a tough call . . . based on how much you despise taking your guitar apart and rewiring it. Conventional wisdom would be to use 500k pots with the 'buckers, but if it was me, I'd wire it up the way it is, and see if you like it. (Of course, I don't mind rewiring - you might.) :)

Also, I'd go ahead and skip the push/pulls for now, if you have to order them, and see how you like it. That way, you can decide whether or not to order 500k push/pulls or not.

On the last problem, I'll have to "doodle up" a couple things to see if I can figure out what you might have done wrong. Shoudln't take too long.
Stay tuna-ed. ;)
 
Re: Wiring Question

I appreciate the attention you are devoting to this problem. I have been procrastinating and I have 2 gigs this weekend. It is Thursday, and BOTH guitars are not in the condition they need to be in for practice tonight.

I dont mind rewiring, in fact I enjoy learning about what makes my axe tick. I am thankful that I have you as a guide to help along the way....

Standing by.....

Allen
 
Re: Wiring Question

I have it wired exactly like that, except for the resistors on each tone pot, I have one that bridges both. Could that be the reason the #1 and #5 positions are not dropping the middle pup?
 
Re: Wiring Question

Yup . . . I think that would do it. With both tone controls on "10", you've shorted the two lugs of the 5-way together.

For a quick and dirty test, put both tone controls on zero. You should now hear a difference. (Maybe.) :laugh2:
 
Re: Wiring Question

I was sure that was it! However, the only thing that changed was the tone! For some reason the middle pup is ALWAYS on, reagardless of the position. I am still trying to follow the switching pattern to decipher this myself. It may involve a trip to Radio Shack for some resistors so that I can do it EXACTLY as shown.

Thanks again for your help, Artie.

Allen
 
Re: Wiring Question

Make extra sure that you don't have a small solder-bridge in the switch, or the other thing I've seen, one of the "bare" wires get across the switch when you shove all the wiring back into the cavity.

On the bright side . . . at least you know the tone controls work. :laugh2:
 
Re: Wiring Question

I spent the last several mintues scrutinizing the job. I clipped off all exposed wire at soldier points, and checked for cold joints. NOTHING! It has to be the fact that the pots are bridging the mid pup because they need separate CAPACITORS (don;t know why I said resistor). Anyway, I have to stop by Radio Shack AND Wal-Mart.... I just got off the phone with my wife, and inadvertantely set it down beside the soldering gun! Well, now the caller Id doesnt work, and it is real staticy!!! Man, I thought this would be a simple job!!!
 
Re: Wiring Question

gordon_39422 said:
. . . and inadvertantely set it down beside the soldering gun!
Click to expand...

Yow! Was that a typo, or did you actually mean "soldering gun"? Those are really meant for pipes and stuff. If you can avoid it, you should never use those for electronics. They have a huge electromagnetic field around them, (as you may have just discovered), and can possibly deguass your pup magnets. Not to mention meltdown a pot in a second. :yell:

If its all you have . . . be extra careful. But buy a pencil iron as soon as possible. ;)
 
Re: Wiring Question

Yes, I agree. I allow the gun to heat up AWAY from the guitar, and bring it to the solder point only when ready to solder. While I am at the Shack, I will get a pencil iron. Which wattage would you suggest? They have from 12 - 40 watts. I think there is a kit for the 40 watt that includes a carrying case. That would be ideal for transporting, as I ALWAYS keep electronic repair equipment available.
 
Re: Wiring Question

Okay, I was doing some thinking, and the capacitors shoulnt be the source of the problem. According to the diagram, they will share a common ground, anyway. I wired it EXACTLY as shown, with the exception of the second capacitor. It soldered that joint directly to the pot, which would affect the tone, not that activity of the switching. The middle pup is still active in ALL positions.

I am at a loss, but will continue to troubleshoot.

I have installed several pups over the years, but never had this problem. I hope that nothing is wrong with any of the components, such as the switch itself, etc....
 
Re: Wiring Question

Ok, look at this diagram using two caps. When the bottom pup isn't selected, its electrically isolated:

tone01.jpg


Now look at this one with a shared cap. Look at the green line that connects the unselected pup to the selected one's signal path:

tone02.jpg


I'm still betting that thats the problem. ;)
 
Re: Wiring Question

Granted, the two caps are connected to ground, but thats also two caps to attenuate the signal drastically.

Give me a sec, I'll modify that top diagram.
 
Re: Wiring Question

This diagram is electrically identical to the first. Just rearranged differently to make it easier to see the path of the green line.

tone03.jpg


Notice that the signal would have to pass through both caps, which have the bottom shunted to ground.
 
Re: Wiring Question

Well, I went back through and took my time to get each wire the exact length it needs to be and ran all wires in a uniform manner. Now, if there was a problem, troubleshooting can be done without even touching the guitar. Of course, in doing so, I fixed the problem. Everything works fine, except the tone for the bridge is kooky! I am going to the Shack in a short while and will get a few caps and a lower wattage pencil iron. I think I am going with the 40 watt package. I had a 25 watter once, and it took forever to get the pots warm enough to draw a bead of solder.

Thanks again for all your assistance, Artie. I truly appreciate the time you sacrificed to help an SD brethern.

Have A BLessed Evening!
Allen

P.S. Here is a pic of the finished project, less bridge capacitor.

http://photobucket.com/albums/v292/gordon_39422/Guitar Pics/th_Wiring.jpg
 
Re: Wiring Question

Your' welcome Allen - but it wasn't a "sacrifice". Its how I relax. ;)

Sorry, I forgot about the soldering iron question. 40 watt is definitely what you want. 45, if they have it. Let us know how it comes out.
 
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