Wiring superheros I need your help

[RockinProf]

Hey all,

I have a semi crazy, okay completely out to lunch idea that I just can't figure out and I need help. I'm trying to wire a DPDT on/on/on switch in a series/split/parallel configuration, but also adding 470K resistors so that on the split and parallel configurations there is the resistor and in the series configuration the resistor is not in the circuit. Below is a wiring diagram I'm considering using, can anyone let me know which lug(s) I should attach the resistors that lead to ground?

Thanks

 

[beaubrummels]

I think you are out of lugs to use. Any way I can see of putting a resistor in there would bridge the resistor in so it was on all the time. But someone else might find a tricky way to do it.

 

[Artie]

I've doodled up several things, and I can't come up with anything. You really do need an extra set of lugs. They do make a 4PDT version of that switch, although it's a little pricey.

 

[RockinProf]

I've doodled up several things, and I can't come up with anything. You really do need an extra set of lugs. They do make a 4PDT version of that switch, although it's a little pricey.

Well nuts, it was a cool idea.... I actually have the 4PDT Switch and I was going to use it as a master for both humbuckers..... Neat thought though Thanks for trying to work it through

 

[Ewizard]

I'm guessing that the 470K resistor is to drop the pot loading value in half for the split and parallel positions?

For me, I like to break down what connections exist and need to connect in each scenario. So first we have 4 wires. Green, White, Red, and Black. The Black wire is the Hot wire and the Green is the ground wire typically. If you want the pickup to work in series you simply attach the Red and White wires together with the green to the ground and black to hot. I'm going to use G, B, W, R from here on out... For parallel, you connect the G, W together connected to ground or hot as desired, and the R, B wires to hot or ground as desired, so long as one pair goes to ground and hot. For split, you typically just use the G and R wires or just the W, B wires. The switch you have is actually a DPTT ( double-pole triple throw ). It has a weird switching layout that is not intuitive if you don't probe it out.

The connections look like this:


You have a type 2 switch most likely. So disregard the upper Type 1 connections.

So with the switch in the down position, the G and B go to ground and the output respectively, and the jumper that goes from the center of the switch to the upper lug connects the W & R together. This is series. In the middle position, the G and B wires again go to the ground and the output respectively, but the W & R wires get tied together with the G ground wire. This creates a Split coil where the effective output you get is the B and W coil. The G & R goes to ground shunting that coil altogether. In the up position, the G & W are connected to the ground while the B & R are connected to hot. This is a parallel connection that is noise-free. You can wire it another way to be parallel and not noise-free, but that is for another post.

The unfortunate thing is that you do not have the ability to add the resistor and be able to switch it in and out with the switch you have. You need a TPTT switch to do that and the wiring will be totally different as well. I am also not 100% sure how you want the resistor placed in the circuit? I assume you want it connected to the hot lead to ground. I presented this wiring diagram so that you can see why it was wired the way it was and why it won't work.

 

[RockinProf]

I'm guessing that the 470K resistor is to drop the pot loading value in half for the split and parallel positions?

For me, I like to break down what connections exist and need to connect in each scenario. So first we have 4 wires. Green, White, Red, and Black. The Black wire is the Hot wire and the Green is the ground wire typically. If you want the pickup to work in series you simply attach the Red and White wires together with the green to the ground and black to hot. I'm going to use G, B, W, R from here on out... For parallel, you connect the G, W together connected to ground or hot as desired, and the R, B wires to hot or ground as desired, so long as one pair goes to ground and hot. For split, you typically just use the G and R wires or just the W, B wires. The switch you have is actually a DPTT ( double-pole triple throw ). It has a weird switching layout that is not intuitive if you don't probe it out.

The connections look like this:


You have a type 2 switch most likely. So disregard the upper Type 1 connections.

So with the switch in the down position, the G and B go to ground and the output respectively, and the jumper that goes from the center of the switch to the upper lug connects the W & R together. This is series. In the middle position, the G and B wires again go to the ground and the output respectively, but the W & R wires get tied together with the G ground wire. This creates a Split coil where the effective output you get is the B and W coil. The G & R goes to ground shunting that coil altogether. In the up position, the G & W are connected to the ground while the B & R are connected to hot. This is a parallel connection that is noise-free. You can wire it another way to be parallel and not noise-free, but that is for another post.

The unfortunate thing is that you do not have the ability to add the resistor and be able to switch it in and out with the switch you have. You need a TPTT switch to do that and the wiring will be totally different as well. I am also not 100% sure how you want the resistor placed in the circuit? I assume you want it connected to the hot lead to ground. I presented this wiring diagram so that you can see why it was wired the way it was and why it won't work.

Thanks Ewizard. I went ahead and installed the switch in my mutt parts caster any while I don't have the resistors added (as you've shown that isn't realistic) to enhance the signal dump to ground (tricking the circuit to react like there's a a 250K pot rather than a 500K) and get a warmer singe coil sound. What I found was by having a series/split/parallel switch is that parallel is really lifeless next to a true split. This makes me thing that the monster Dimarzio EP1111 switch I have would be better used else where. I'm likely better off replacing it with a 4PDT switch that is on/on allowing me to use bank 1 to split the neck humbucker, bank 2 to add in the resistor when spilt, bank 3 to split the bridge humbucker and bank 4 open. Ultimately I think that should work very nicely, so I can get what I want on a single instrument with minimal though on the fly of how to get there. This will be added to a super switch where it's configured as: Down -1. Bridge series, 2. Bridge series + middle, 3. Bridge Series + Neck Series, 4. Middle + Neck series 5. Neck Series. Up, Bridge South coil, 2. bridge south coil + middle, 3. bridge south coil + neck north coil, 4. middle + neck north coil, 5. Neck north coil. Having the resistor on bank 2 of the switch should warm up the singles and there would be that added resistors in all the right places. Let me know if I'm missing anything. Thanks!

 

[RockinProf]

I'm guessing that the 470K resistor is to drop the pot loading value in half for the split and parallel positions?

For me, I like to break down what connections exist and need to connect in each scenario. So first we have 4 wires. Green, White, Red, and Black. The Black wire is the Hot wire and the Green is the ground wire typically. If you want the pickup to work in series you simply attach the Red and White wires together with the green to the ground and black to hot. I'm going to use G, B, W, R from here on out... For parallel, you connect the G, W together connected to ground or hot as desired, and the R, B wires to hot or ground as desired, so long as one pair goes to ground and hot. For split, you typically just use the G and R wires or just the W, B wires. The switch you have is actually a DPTT ( double-pole triple throw ). It has a weird switching layout that is not intuitive if you don't probe it out.

The connections look like this:


You have a type 2 switch most likely. So disregard the upper Type 1 connections.

So with the switch in the down position, the G and B go to ground and the output respectively, and the jumper that goes from the center of the switch to the upper lug connects the W & R together. This is series. In the middle position, the G and B wires again go to the ground and the output respectively, but the W & R wires get tied together with the G ground wire. This creates a Split coil where the effective output you get is the B and W coil. The G & R goes to ground shunting that coil altogether. In the up position, the G & W are connected to the ground while the B & R are connected to hot. This is a parallel connection that is noise-free. You can wire it another way to be parallel and not noise-free, but that is for another post.

The unfortunate thing is that you do not have the ability to add the resistor and be able to switch it in and out with the switch you have. You need a TPTT switch to do that and the wiring will be totally different as well. I am also not 100% sure how you want the resistor placed in the circuit? I assume you want it connected to the hot lead to ground. I presented this wiring diagram so that you can see why it was wired the way it was and why it won't work.

Thinking about this more, would this work for the configuration I mentioned above?

Thanks!