DarthTangYang
New member
In my opinion, the traditional nut is unnecessarily complex. Let's break it down, a few things needs to be achieved in the general area where the nut sits:
Firstly, something is needed to create a quite small 'break point' or 'zero point' for the string (just like the saddle at the bridge) and do so in a way that creates enough downward angle for the string on its path to the tuner so the string doesn't sound dull, as well as keep the string slightly above the first fret to keep it from buzzing.
Secondly the two E strings and maybe even the A and B can't be allowed to slip over the edge of the fretboard, and frankly, no string should slip over its neighbouring string when being bent. So they need to be kept relatively in their place at the 'zero point' to prevent this.
The traditional nut needs to do all of this. Thus the need for specific materials, well made slots, with the correct filed angle, width and spacing is necessary in order to achieve all of this.
A more rational solution is a zero fret. The Zero Glide is a much better option in my opinion. Not only does it create a small 'zero point' for the strings AND keeps any strings from slipping over the edge of the fretboard or even potentially over each other, the open notes now sound the same as fretted notes since the zero fret is made from the same material as the rest of the frets.
The slots on the actual nut behind the zero fret only has to accomplish one job - keep any strings from slipping over the edge of the fretboard when being bent. The strings don't have to rest in these slots so the slot depth doesn't need to be perfect and the same can be said about the width of the slots as well. Also, the material of the nut is now irrelevant since it doesn't play a part in creating the tone of an open note. As long as the nut keeps the strings from slipping too much from side to side.
And as a bonus, if all of this wasn't enough - one of the best things with a Zero Glide - should you want to change your string gauge you don't have to change the nut.
The zero fret is a much more rational solution in my opinion. It takes a lot of complicated work out of the equation and solves a bucket load of potential problems by completely circumventing them.
Now, like someone else stated earlier in this thread - learning a new skill is never a bad idea, but if that skill isn't neccessary, perhaps it would be time better spent learning something else? But that's up to you. Ultimately not everyone want a zero fret on their guitar. Perhaps they don't like how it looks, how it sounds or something else. For me it was the best solution and I have equipped all my guitars, electrical as accoustic with Zero Glides and will probably do so on all future ones.
Firstly, something is needed to create a quite small 'break point' or 'zero point' for the string (just like the saddle at the bridge) and do so in a way that creates enough downward angle for the string on its path to the tuner so the string doesn't sound dull, as well as keep the string slightly above the first fret to keep it from buzzing.
Secondly the two E strings and maybe even the A and B can't be allowed to slip over the edge of the fretboard, and frankly, no string should slip over its neighbouring string when being bent. So they need to be kept relatively in their place at the 'zero point' to prevent this.
The traditional nut needs to do all of this. Thus the need for specific materials, well made slots, with the correct filed angle, width and spacing is necessary in order to achieve all of this.
A more rational solution is a zero fret. The Zero Glide is a much better option in my opinion. Not only does it create a small 'zero point' for the strings AND keeps any strings from slipping over the edge of the fretboard or even potentially over each other, the open notes now sound the same as fretted notes since the zero fret is made from the same material as the rest of the frets.
The slots on the actual nut behind the zero fret only has to accomplish one job - keep any strings from slipping over the edge of the fretboard when being bent. The strings don't have to rest in these slots so the slot depth doesn't need to be perfect and the same can be said about the width of the slots as well. Also, the material of the nut is now irrelevant since it doesn't play a part in creating the tone of an open note. As long as the nut keeps the strings from slipping too much from side to side.
And as a bonus, if all of this wasn't enough - one of the best things with a Zero Glide - should you want to change your string gauge you don't have to change the nut.
The zero fret is a much more rational solution in my opinion. It takes a lot of complicated work out of the equation and solves a bucket load of potential problems by completely circumventing them.
Now, like someone else stated earlier in this thread - learning a new skill is never a bad idea, but if that skill isn't neccessary, perhaps it would be time better spent learning something else? But that's up to you. Ultimately not everyone want a zero fret on their guitar. Perhaps they don't like how it looks, how it sounds or something else. For me it was the best solution and I have equipped all my guitars, electrical as accoustic with Zero Glides and will probably do so on all future ones.
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