Cab construction methods

[AudioWonderland]

I am wondering about the significnce of finger joints vs rabbet joints in cab construction. I have been doing a lot of research into whats available in 2x12 cabs on the market. I have found a cab that has the various features I like but uses rabbet joints instead of finger joints on the cab itself. Any sonic differences? How much strength is lost? Does it really matter for a cab that won't be on the road?

I have found some really nice cabs that do use finger joint contruction but don't have things like convertable back panels, stereo/mono cabability, no speaker selection and are rather pricey. On one hand you get what you pay for and on the other marketing hype is a powerful tool.

Opinions please.. Not sure where I stand on the matter yet but research continues

[CTN]

Re: Cab construction methods

I think finger jointing is pretty common in cab building, and is also a very structurally strong joint compared to a rabbet, and is likely better for supporting the weight of speakers which are often quite heavy.

They're not as unobtrusive looking as a rabbet, but they have their own kinda beauty. Some cab builders also use dovetails instead of straight fingers for extra strength.

That said, with either method, most builders will create the basic shell (top, bottom and sides) and then you decide how you want to do the front and rear baffles depending on what you need the speaker cab to do. You can go half open back, full open, convertible, if it's a 2x12 or 4x12, you can add a center inner baffle to separate the speakers, creating a slightly more true stereo sound. Basically your only limits are your imagination once you've got the basic frame of your cab.

[glassman]

Re: Cab construction methods

I think finger joints are fairly essential in a pine cabinet, but if you are talking about a plywood cabinet, rabbitt joints are more than adequate. The quality of the plywood is the most important aspect of that type of cabinet since a piece with voids or poorly bonded layers will make for a weak joint no matter what type of joint is used. Finger joints look cool but under a layer of tolex, who's gonna know?

Personally, I use furniture grade birch plywood and biscuit joints; it survived my "off the back of a pickup truck at 55 mph test:...good enough for me.

[AudioWonderland]

Re: Cab construction methods

I think finger joints are fairly essential in a pine cabinet, but if you are talking about a plywood cabinet, rabbitt joints are more than adequate. The quality of the plywood is the most important aspect of that type of cabinet since a piece with voids or poorly bonded layers will make for a weak joint no matter what type of joint is used. Finger joints look cool but under a layer of tolex, who's gonna know?

Personally, I use furniture grade birch plywood and biscuit joints; it survived my "off the back of a pickup truck at 55 mph test:...good enough for me.

Yes, looking at Birch void free plywood cabs...
I would imagine a dado'd in baffle would add more strength to the cab than a furring strip mounted one?

[Kam]

Re: Cab construction methods

Personally, I use furniture grade birch plywood and biscuit joints; it survived my "off the back of a pickup truck at 55 mph test:...good enough for me.

Dude, next time you do that, you really need to film it.

[Lazarus1140]

Re: Cab construction methods

I only use cabinets that have been tested at 80 mph.

[AudioWonderland]

Re: Cab construction methods

Whats the story with Sour Mash Cabs? I saw a few on ebay but their website is a mess that doesn't really have any information on their products let alone inspire me to hand over money