The Jet City 100H's stock sound is a thicker version of a Marshall kinda thing. It's got a ton of lows and big growly low mids to complement smoothed out mids and highs. Sounds great.
But sometimes, all that low/low-mid grunt can be a bit much. Sometimes, you just want a classic marshall upper mid kinda thing going on without the huge low end. So I modded my amp to allow me to switch between the stock voicing and a voicing with reduced/tightened up lows and low mids.
Here's where it goes: the slope resistor at R24. As you might be able to see, R23 is kinda discoloured, probably on its way to being burned out for whatever reason, so I took this opportunity to replace that too.
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v621/blackwater/P3071047_zps2afb7d7a.jpg)
Between the two points where R24 is, I installed a DPDT, ON-ON mini toggle rated for 5A @ 120V. Leads go from each end of the R24 solder pads to the center lugs of the switch. and on the outer lugs, soldered a 47k resistor (stock value) and a 33k resistor. They're both 1 watt resistors with a tolerance of +/- 1%. Here's what it looks like:
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v621/blackwater/P3071048_zps4ab4f2eb.jpg)
(and yes, that black wire IS soldered properly, but in this pic it looks like a crappy solder joint cuz there's a tiny bit of rosin at the top of the solder blob that looks like a hole in the solder pad from this angle)
Other side of the panel. I love the flat toggles.
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v621/blackwater/P3071051_zps88535044.jpg)
And the sound?
In a word, good! I find it's very useful to have it set up on a toggle like this where you can switch between the stock resistor value and the 33k. The 33k resistor tends to reduce and tighten up the 100H's ample lows and low-mids. This has the added benefit of letting the amp's naturally Marshally sounding midrange and high end to shine through - doesn't sound thin, bright or harsh though. It's just enough to make the amp sounding more like a Marshall but still retains the essential Soldano character. I played all my guitars through it, toggling back and forth, and on both channels. The voicing switch definitely is more noticeable on the OD channel because of how it thickens up and adds more and more lows/low-mids the more gain you add. On the clean channel, it's still noticeable, but not as much. The stock resistor is great for adding some beefiness and more of a full range kinda sound to bright guitars and helps single coils sound deep, rich and warm. The 33k resistor is fantastic for low tunings and darker sounding guitars/pickups. All in all, I'm happy with this mod.
Also, bonus picture! Changed out the cheap stock LED assembly for a sturdy Fender style pilot light assembly which uses actual proper incandescent bulbs! No circuit modification required, just had to enlarge the mounting hole on the chassis.
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v621/blackwater/P3071053_zps46adad4c.jpg)
Also sometime next week I'll record some clips with my current tube complement (TungSol 12ax7s in V1,2,3, JJ in V4, EHX in V5) to illustrate the difference in voicing. I should also (hopefully) be receiving a couple of JAN GE NOS tubes next week, a 5751 and a 12au7, which I intended for the V1 and PI positions, respectively, but I'll do some clips of both in a number of different positions to find the best configuration.
Once I get those new tubes in and I've settled on a combination, the chassis will go back in the headshell and I'll get a pic of how the amber lamp (ambalamps!!!) matches up with the grill cloth on the baffle.
But sometimes, all that low/low-mid grunt can be a bit much. Sometimes, you just want a classic marshall upper mid kinda thing going on without the huge low end. So I modded my amp to allow me to switch between the stock voicing and a voicing with reduced/tightened up lows and low mids.
Here's where it goes: the slope resistor at R24. As you might be able to see, R23 is kinda discoloured, probably on its way to being burned out for whatever reason, so I took this opportunity to replace that too.
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v621/blackwater/P3071047_zps2afb7d7a.jpg)
Between the two points where R24 is, I installed a DPDT, ON-ON mini toggle rated for 5A @ 120V. Leads go from each end of the R24 solder pads to the center lugs of the switch. and on the outer lugs, soldered a 47k resistor (stock value) and a 33k resistor. They're both 1 watt resistors with a tolerance of +/- 1%. Here's what it looks like:
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v621/blackwater/P3071048_zps4ab4f2eb.jpg)
(and yes, that black wire IS soldered properly, but in this pic it looks like a crappy solder joint cuz there's a tiny bit of rosin at the top of the solder blob that looks like a hole in the solder pad from this angle)
Other side of the panel. I love the flat toggles.
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v621/blackwater/P3071051_zps88535044.jpg)
And the sound?
In a word, good! I find it's very useful to have it set up on a toggle like this where you can switch between the stock resistor value and the 33k. The 33k resistor tends to reduce and tighten up the 100H's ample lows and low-mids. This has the added benefit of letting the amp's naturally Marshally sounding midrange and high end to shine through - doesn't sound thin, bright or harsh though. It's just enough to make the amp sounding more like a Marshall but still retains the essential Soldano character. I played all my guitars through it, toggling back and forth, and on both channels. The voicing switch definitely is more noticeable on the OD channel because of how it thickens up and adds more and more lows/low-mids the more gain you add. On the clean channel, it's still noticeable, but not as much. The stock resistor is great for adding some beefiness and more of a full range kinda sound to bright guitars and helps single coils sound deep, rich and warm. The 33k resistor is fantastic for low tunings and darker sounding guitars/pickups. All in all, I'm happy with this mod.
Also, bonus picture! Changed out the cheap stock LED assembly for a sturdy Fender style pilot light assembly which uses actual proper incandescent bulbs! No circuit modification required, just had to enlarge the mounting hole on the chassis.
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v621/blackwater/P3071053_zps46adad4c.jpg)
Also sometime next week I'll record some clips with my current tube complement (TungSol 12ax7s in V1,2,3, JJ in V4, EHX in V5) to illustrate the difference in voicing. I should also (hopefully) be receiving a couple of JAN GE NOS tubes next week, a 5751 and a 12au7, which I intended for the V1 and PI positions, respectively, but I'll do some clips of both in a number of different positions to find the best configuration.
Once I get those new tubes in and I've settled on a combination, the chassis will go back in the headshell and I'll get a pic of how the amber lamp (ambalamps!!!) matches up with the grill cloth on the baffle.
![](https://forum.seymourduncan.com/core/images/smilies/fing02.gif)
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