Pocket depth... or rather width of ceiling/wall

[Lua Grimm]

Hi! First of all I did a quick search, didn't find an answer... So by all means if this has already been answered, please respond with "this has been answered already, here's a link to the answer" instead of "ThIs HaS bEeN aNsWeReD aLrEaDy!&#"

Joke aside, hi everyone! How's life? Would you mind answering a quick question?

I'm planning on making my own guitar and currently busy finding the parts, I'm at the potential and decided that I wouldn't have a pickguard, so I'll have to route a pocket through the back, I would like to know, from experience, how much fo I leave on the top, 1/8? 1/4? 3/8? 1/2? Or something else entirely? I'd prefer an answer in imperial units, but will manage with metric units... From experience it's never a good idea to mix standard values from both system at the same time xD

Thank you for your time!

[GuitarDoc]

Re: Pocket depth... or rather width of ceiling/wall

That's about like asking..."I'm planning on building a car. How big should the engine be?"

Before we can even begin to answer this we need more info. What is the size and basic shape of the guitar? How thick is the body going to be? When you talk about routing from the back, are you referring to the control cavity or the pickup cavity (to some/most of the seasoned members of this forum this seems like a ridiculous question, but judging from your questions, this may not be so elemental after all)?

Have you drawn out your plans yet? Could you include them in your post so we could have a look and help you better?

[mistermikev]

Re: Pocket depth... or rather width of ceiling/wall

I'm going to make the leap that you are talking about the control cavity... so I'll answer that... typically 1/4" or less for short-shaft pots to stick through. if there is a 5 way switch involved they are designed to have 1/8" thick mounting area as if larger the knob on the lever may prevent the switch from reaching the first/last positions. If you are putting a 1/4 jack thru like on an sg... that area needs to be about 1/8" thick.
You might consider posting your question on a more 'luthier centric' forum or 'partscaster' forum as I suspect you'd get more responses there. (not that there aren't some luthiers/builders here)

[Masta' C]

Re: Pocket depth... or rather width of ceiling/wall

Agreed, sounds like we're talking about control cavity and top thickness here.

The face thickness should be around 3/16" if you're using shorter shaft pots or 1/4" (or thicker) for longer shaft pots

1/8" for switch areas

[Lua Grimm]

Re: Pocket depth... or rather width of ceiling/wall

Aye sorry for not being clear, yes was talking about control quality, standard thickness of body at 1.75" shape is gonna be similar to a Telecaster, but not copy of it...

Well thank you for answering, the switch won't be a Strat/Tele style, more like a Gibson's, so shouldn't have a problem with those...
So to summarize:
1. Potentiometer with long shaft: 1/4"
2. Potentiometer with short shaft: 3/16"

Thanks again (don't have actual plans yet... as I was looking for depth infos and the likes before making an actual plan)

Thanks again!

[Masta' C]

Re: Pocket depth... or rather width of ceiling/wall

Here's a reference from Warmoth, a major builder of Tele bodies: http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Bodies...eRearRout.aspx

[eclecticsynergy]

Re: Pocket depth... or rather width of ceiling/wall

Yah, Gibson toggles are easier. Blade switches can be tricky - I have one rear-routed body where the top thickness is 1/4" throughout and have trouble with the switch tip hitting outside. Been thinking about trying a retro setscrew switch tip like the Rutters; hoping that if I can clear just a hair more length on the blade then it won't need to be rerouted.

[Dave Locher]

Re: Pocket depth... or rather width of ceiling/wall

Mine is 1/4", I used short shaft pots and a regular switchcraft gibson-style toggle switch with no problems.

[GuitarDoc]

Re: Pocket depth... or rather width of ceiling/wall

I rout all of my custom guitar builds with 1/8" thick top at the control cavity. That way I never get into trouble later if I decide to use a switch or pot that doesn't work with a thicker surface.

3/16" would be an absolute minimum. 1/4" just doesn't work with most components.

[Dave Locher]

Re: Pocket depth... or rather width of ceiling/wall

I had no problems with the 1/4" top surface on mine? CTS pots and Switchcraft toggle, nothin special.

[GuitarDoc]

Re: Pocket depth... or rather width of ceiling/wall

I had no problems with the 1/4" top surface on mine? CTS pots and Switchcraft toggle, nothin special.

You using long shaft pots? You said short shaft, but you'd better measure them. Also measure the thickness of your top again...it may not actually be 1/4" thick. I'm not calling you a liar, but the measurements just don't add up.

CTS, Dimarzio, and Alpha short shaft pots, and CTS p/p pot shafts are only 3/8" max (some slightly less). That's barely long enough to go through 1/4" with only 1/8" of the shaft left for a nut on top...no washer under the nut, and no lock washer under the wood. In my book, that will not work!
Alpha p/p pots and some Alpha pots only have 1/4" shafts and obviously will not work at all!

Yes, toggles usually have enough shaft length. But any blade switch will not even come close to working with 1/4" thick top! It MUST be 1/8" or less.