When using dowel for filling in control cavities, how stable is the job (assuming the job is done correctly), has anybody ever had an issue with such a repair job "popping out"?
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Originally posted by Adieu View PostProperly executed glue joints are stronger than the wood parts they connectOriginally posted by crusty philtrumAnyone who *sings* at me through their teeth deserves to have a bus drive through their face
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Originally posted by Lucius Paisley View PostWhen using dowel for filling in control cavities, how stable is the job (assuming the job is done correctly), has anybody ever had an issue with such a repair job "popping out"?
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Originally posted by ArtieToo View Post
Could you clarify? Are you talking about filling in the whole Les Paul, or Strat cavity? Or are you talking about plugging one pot hole? (Potentiometer hole.)
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Originally posted by Lucius Paisley View Post
Just the pot holes. In the case of a l-r conversion or just making one hole "go away" - in most cases, removing tone control.My Bands -
https://kamikazechoir.hearnow.com/
www.instagram.com/kamikazechoir
www.reverbnation.com/theheartlessdevils
Just some fun guitar stuff from time to time
GUITAR KULTURE
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Plugging a hole sounds simple but it's actually quite difficult. You need a tight fitting plug to begin with, but not so tight that the glue won't hold. Clamping down the plug is almost impossible.
I always use titebond first, then superglue to flood the top and plasticize the plug's front. If I have to drill a hole again for studs, I let the glue dry for 24 hours and drill with a super-sharp bit. I have trems that are super-stable with plugged holes and trems that are a nightmare without plugs. So in short, it doesn't matter if it's a plugged hole or not
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Originally posted by orpheo View PostPlugging a hole sounds simple but it's actually quite difficult. You need a tight fitting plug to begin with, but not so tight that the glue won't hold. Clamping down the plug is almost impossible.
I always use titebond first, then superglue to flood the top and plasticize the plug's front. If I have to drill a hole again for studs, I let the glue dry for 24 hours and drill with a super-sharp bit. I have trems that are super-stable with plugged holes and trems that are a nightmare without plugs. So in short, it doesn't matter if it's a plugged hole or not
Unfortunately, this page is from Google cache because he's recently shut his site down due to a move, but you can see what he did well enough.
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Originally posted by Lucius Paisley View Post
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Originally posted by larryguitar View PostYou'll run into an issue with the fact that dowels are end-grain, while the guitar body is face grain. They'll expand and contract at different rates, and eventually could leave a visible depression or raised surface.
Larry
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That's fine, especially when the work is going to be obscured by the trem (sometimes by the tuners), you don't need to be too concerned with how it affects the overall finish. The best part here is the posts are being held mostly by the original wood. I don't think you're going to have any issues with the dowels popping out of place here.
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These are some great woodwork suggestions in this thread. I am looking to perform a similar woodworking chore like the OP & this thread was pretty useful. Thank you all!
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