Bad action after changing strings, 1st and 2nd frets of A, D, G strings fretting out

[Steven Mal]

I recently changed the strings on my SE Custom 24 and the action is so low that the 1st and 2nd frets of the A, D and G strings are fretting out. The first five frets on the low E and frets 3, 4 and 5 on the A string are buzzing as well. I did not have this issue before I changed strings. Because this is the cheapest guitar I own and I can't afford to pay to have all my guitars set-up when I want, I would like to try to fix the problem myself before paying a guitar tech to fix it.

What happened to the action when I changed strings? What should I adjust first, the saddles or truss rod? Which way do I turn the truss rod to get rid of the buzzing and resolve the issue of "fretting out?" Thanks.

[ICTGoober]

Did you change the brand or gauge of strings? Tuned back to pitch yet? Did any part of the bridge move while the strings were off the guitar?

[nexion218]

Fret the low E @3rd fret, there should be some minimal clearence between the frets and the string going towards the nut (frets 1 and 2). If theres no clearence, the nut is too low. Would be a curious case, since there was no such prior issue, right?

If your buzz is concentrated in the middle area of the neck, you might want to give it a little more relief: righty-tighty (not what you want), lefty-loosy (this is what you want). A quarter turn, then leave for for a few mins and inspect. Fret your low E @1st (might wanna use a capo) and at the fret where your neck meets the body, usually 17th-18th and inscpest clearence at the 7th-8th fret. By fretting at 2 points, you're creating a straightedge from the string and the 7th-8th fret area is your halfway point, where the relief is the biggest. I'd say that a relief of 0,2-0,3 mm should be enough.

All that being said, the truss rod is NOT for setting action. You do that at the bridge and the nut. You can do the saddles for yourself, but I suggesz not messing with the nut without the right tools and proper knowledge.

Btw have you changed the gauge of the strings? Lighter strings tend to be flubbier at the same pitch and pull less on the neck, which alone might be the reason for the buzz.

[GuitarDoc]

The only thing that could have caused that problem is changing to a lower gauge string. Since the buzzing is happening at the lower frets, adjusting the bridge or truss rod is absolutely the wrong thing to do. You either need stiffer or higher gauge strings or you need to raise the nut (or get a new one) which requires a guitar tech/luthier...don't try it yourself unless you have experience doing work on your nut.

[ehdwuld]

The only thing that could have caused that problem is changing to a lower gauge string. Since the buzzing is happening at the lower frets, adjusting the bridge or truss rod is absolutely the wrong thing to do. You either need stiffer or higher gauge strings or you need to raise the nut (or get a new one) which requires a guitar tech/luthier...don't try it yourself unless you have experience doing work on your nut.

I disagree
a tweak of the truss rod is the solution for lighter gauge strings

Dont adjust anything else until you tweak it a quarter turn
Action come right back in five minutes

Doc you know this

[Securb]

I agree. My Gibsons all came with 10s when switching them to 9s a light truss tweak is all I needed.

[Masta' C]

...you need to raise the nut (or get a new one) which requires a guitar tech/luthier...don't try it yourself unless you have experience doing work on your nut.

One of the best upgrades I did to my SE CU24 was swap out the SE nut for a proper "Core" model nut. You get a 2-pack for like $20. It's a no-brainer.

Oh, and it's an easy swap. All you need is sandpaper and a little glue to hold the new nut in place. Take your time, test-fit as you go and you can get exactly the action you want

[Mincer]

I've gone from 9s to 10s with no ill effects on some guitars, but sometimes the setup doesn't work for the new strings, and it needs a new setup.

[DavidRavenMoon]

Loosen the truss rod a 1/4 turn.


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[Obsessive Compulsive]

Truss rod adjustment is for more/ less curvature of the neck, not action. I would adjust the saddles.

[Adieu]

Truss rod adjustment is for more/ less curvature of the neck, not action. I would adjust the saddles.

There's two different ways switching to smaller gauge/lower tension strings messes up the action:

1) less string pull - truss rod makes the neck go convex (less counterpull on the headstock to even it out) - adjust truss rod
2) floppier by nature - thinner strings tuned to the same note move more and will buzz at the same action that will be perfect for thicker strings - raise saddles

[Obsessive Compulsive]

^Yes, we can safely assume the neck has moved a bit cause of less string pull.

[beaubrummels]

My first thought (though it wasn't stated in the OP) is that you must have changed gauge of strings. You have to adjust the bridge saddles and truss when you do that.

[DavidRavenMoon]

Truss rod adjustment is for more/ less curvature of the neck, not action. I would adjust the saddles.

He’s buzzing on the lower frets, not the higher ones. That’s a slight back bow on the neck. He went to a lighter set of strings, so he needs to loosen the rod.

But I’ve only been a luthier for 40 years, so what do I know?


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[DavidRavenMoon]

There's two different ways switching to smaller gauge/lower tension strings messes up the action:

1) less string pull - truss rod makes the neck go convex (less counterpull on the headstock to even it out) - adjust truss rod
2) floppier by nature - thinner strings tuned to the same note move more and will buzz at the same action that will be perfect for thicker strings - raise saddles

Correct on #1. But not #2. I often use 8s with super low action. They don’t buzz on the frets. The tension is lower, but they are at their correct tension at that pitch.

I wouldn’t tune them down a step, but Toni Iommi does.


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