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Fuzz Pedal Troubleshooting?

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  • #16
    The horizontal strips, or rows, are a like a trace. They are all connected together. Except where the red squares with dots are; the traces are cut there to isolate smaller length strips. The black links are jumpers which connect their respective top and bottom rows. However I don't know if it applies to your circuit.
    I miss the 80's (girls) !!!

    Seymour Duncans currently in use - In Les Pauls: Custom(b)/Jazz(n), Distortion(b)/Jazz(n), '59(b)/'59(n) w/A4 mag, P-Rails(b)/P-Rails(n); In a Bullet S-3: P-Rails(b)/stock/Vintage Stack Tele(n); In a Dot: Seth Lover(b)/Seth Lover(n); In a Del Mar: Mag Mic; In a Lead II: Custom Shop Fender X-1(b)

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Masta' C View Post

      Thank you for your reply.

      In the "active" position, I get continuity between the center and top middle lugs only. In the "bypass" position, I get continuity between the center and lower middle lugs only. Is this informative?

      Honestly, I've never used an audio probe and I'm not overly confident with schematics. I've actually never worked on pedals before.

      I found this image in a search, which claims to be a DIY version of the Free Fuzz circuit. Some threads suggested it's a Fuzz Face variation. Any idea how to read it and/or if it is useful in my case?

      Worst case, you can just buy the components and some tag board to rebuild the whole circuit. :P
      Join me in the fight against muscular atrophy!

      Originally posted by Douglas Adams
      This planet has - or rather had - a problem, which was this: most of the people living on it were unhappy for pretty much of the time. Many solutions were suggested for this problem, but most of these were largely concerned with the movements of small green pieces of paper, which is odd because on the whole it wasn't the small green pieces of paper that were unhappy.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Masta' C View Post

        Thank you for your reply.

        In the "active" position, I get continuity between the center and top middle lugs only. In the "bypass" position, I get continuity between the center and lower middle lugs only. Is this informative?

        Honestly, I've never used an audio probe and I'm not overly confident with schematics. I've actually never worked on pedals before.

        I found this image in a search, which claims to be a DIY version of the Free Fuzz circuit. Some threads suggested it's a Fuzz Face variation. Any idea how to read it and/or if it is useful in my case?

        Sounds like a bad stomp switch.


        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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        • #19
          did you bang it?

          bang it

          WAP!!

          bang it


          hehehehehehhehe
          EHD
          Just here surfing Guitar Pron
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          • #20
            Originally posted by ehdwuld View Post
            did you bang it?
            No, all the holes were too small

            I did order a new footswitch for it, though!

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            • #21
              Quick update...a new footswitch fixed the problem!

              Unfortunately, I'm really not digging the pedal. It lacks a degree of saturation and, at lower settings, the fuzz isn't really apparent at all aside from adding a fatter, warm color to the sound. Even at higher gain settings, it seems to react best with a strong pick attack. Still, it's not a sound that I'm particularly fond of in terms of "fuzz".

              Curious if I was crazy, I looked up some reviews and the first one I found was a guy saying "Step one: turn everything on this pedal to 10!". I think that just about sums it up. Now that it's working, I plan to move it on.

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              • #22
                Good to hear.

                Most Fuzz Face pedals sound best with both knobs on max.
                Oh no.....


                Oh Yeah!

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                • #23
                  the fuzz knob for sure, at least for germanium ones. high gain silicon dont seem as picky, at least the ones ive tried

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