Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Wiring for a 2-way toggle Mod [series/parallel] into HSH +1-vol/1-tone/5-way blade?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • GuitarDoc
    replied
    I would personally choose the SSL-5 over the L59.

    Leave a comment:


  • Deim0s
    replied
    Originally posted by GuitarDoc View Post
    Nothing wrong with the Neutrik jack. Yes you can always wire up the p/p portion of the pot later if you want (it functions as a DPDT switch). You could use a .033uf cap but my choice would be .022uf.
    The Lil 59 in the middle position should be fine. You don't need to be concerned about the voltages. It's only important if you plan on using them in high voltage situations...a guitar is not. For wire, I use 24 ga stranded pre-tinned with silicone insulation. It's very easy to work with (way easier than wire with pvc type insulation). But any stranded wire 20-28 ga will be fine.
    Like this:
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JB5G82W...v_ov_lig_dp_it
    Thank you so much GuitarDoc! That was really helpful. I will search through the Mouser catalog to find some good wires. I'll get both a .033uf and a 0.022uf capacitor to try them and see which delivers better tone range.

    Another thing... they're still preparing the pickup order in the store and I realized they have an SSL-5 Custom Staggered RwRp. Would it be better than the L59? I believe it would be way more versatile to have a true single coil, but I'm not sure that the RwRp configuration will work with humbuckers? I know it does with other single coils.

    Leave a comment:


  • GuitarDoc
    replied
    Nothing wrong with the Neutrik jack. Yes you can always wire up the p/p portion of the pot later if you want (it functions as a DPDT switch). You could use a .033uf cap but my choice would be .022uf.
    The Lil 59 in the middle position should be fine. You don't need to be concerned about the voltages. It's only important if you plan on using them in high voltage situations...a guitar is not. For wire, I use 24 ga stranded pre-tinned with silicone insulation. It's very easy to work with (way easier than wire with pvc type insulation). But any stranded wire 20-28 ga will be fine.
    Like this:
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JB5G82W...v_ov_lig_dp_it

    Leave a comment:


  • Deim0s
    replied
    Thank you Mincer! I'm gonna buy the TB-5 Duncan Custom then, I'm assuming the sustain and harmonics part is covered.

    I'm really having trouble picking the correct pieces from the Mouser store. I'm thinking about changing all the electronic parts, and I have so many questions about them that I'm just gonna list the electronic parts I chose so far and hope somebody will tell me if I messed up (please )

    DPDT ON-ON-ON Switch: https://www.mouser.cl/ProductDetail/...JSRC79EQ%3D%3D

    Potentiometers (I chose Push/Pull to experiment with Phase switch in the future, I guess they can be wired as a normal potentiometer?): https://www.mouser.cl/ProductDetail/...h16LTryQ%3D%3D

    DPDT ON-ON Switch: https://www.mouser.cl/ProductDetail/...rk%252Bw%3D%3D

    Output Jack (2 options): 1.- https://www.mouser.cl/ProductDetail/...S%252B4A%3D%3D 2.- https://www.mouser.cl/ProductDetail/...lTuIE4TA%3D%3D

    And I'm not sure which wires and capacitor to buy, the latter was recommended as 0.033 uF from the creator of the wiring diagram I posted, but there are several options at that capacitance with different voltage ratings. The wires also have different voltage ratings, gauge and stranding so I don't know if there's a "standard" for guitar wiring components.

    I'm very interested in learning all this stuff but I'm not sure where to start. I really want to make the most out of the sound my old guitar can make, while learning useful and interesting "hands-on" knowledge. I'm trying to make the most out of "social distancing" by learning, so if anyone knows good study material for electronics I would greatly appreciate it
    Last edited by Deim0s; 07-31-2020, 06:39 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mincer
    replied
    Originally posted by Deim0s View Post

    I could try that. Though I don't know how complicated it is, I might need some help or references on how to do it. Also, for the bridge pickup I really want good sustain and easy pinch harmonics. Would this still be good for it?
    Magnet swapping is not hard....even I can do it! There are a ton of threads on this forum about it. Here is one.

    Leave a comment:


  • Deim0s
    replied
    Originally posted by Mincer View Post
    An option is to get the Custom and swap the magnet out.
    I could try that. Though I don't know how complicated it is, I might need some help or references on how to do it. Also, for the bridge pickup I really want good sustain and easy pinch harmonics. Would this still be good for it?
    Last edited by Deim0s; 07-30-2020, 06:04 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mincer
    replied
    The Full Shred is brighter with less bass than the Custom 5. An option is to get the Custom and swap the magnet out.

    Leave a comment:


  • Deim0s
    replied
    I was just told in the store that they didn't have the Custom 5 in stock... They do have the TB-5 Custom. What aboud a TB-10 Full Shred? It's medium gain, would it be better than the TB-5 / JB / Distortion?
    Last edited by Deim0s; 07-30-2020, 03:11 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Deim0s
    replied
    Originally posted by GuitarDoc View Post
    First of all: you want bright and versatile...the Distortion is neither.
    You want a SC in the middle and bright...the Lil 59 is neither.
    The 59 does also come in a 4 conductor version.
    You have the switch positions backwards...pos 1 is bridge and pos 5 is neck.

    For neck: Jazz is a good choice
    For middle: Mincer gave a good suggestion.
    For bridge: a C/59 hybrid or a Custom 5 would be a better choice (you may like a JB, but it's not very versatile...output is too high but mostly it has that upper mids nasal tone going on that you can't get rid of).
    A on/on/on will give you series/split/parallel. I suppose it is available in a 4PDT, but I would suggest having 2 DPDT on/on/on switches so you can control each humbucker separately (like in your diagram).
    Thanks GuitarDoc! I've did some research and the Custom 5 seems like a great pairing with the Jazz for Neck. Unfortunately, I'm buying from a local store here in Chile, and it doesn't have the Classic Stack in stock, so I'll have to go with the Little 59'. The Seymour Duncan web says that the SH-5 pairs well with a '59 so it will probably go well with the L59 in middle position.

    So wrapping up, I'll be buying:

    Neck: SH-2n Jazz
    Middle: SL59-1b Little '59
    Bridge: TB-14 Custom 5 Trembucker

    Once I get them and the electronic parts I'll get hands on with the wiring... So I'll probably be asking for help again.
    Thanks again to everyone for the pickup suggestions!
    Last edited by Deim0s; 07-30-2020, 10:59 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • GuitarDoc
    replied
    First of all: you want bright and versatile...the Distortion is neither.
    You want a SC in the middle and bright...the Lil 59 is neither.
    The 59 does also come in a 4 conductor version.
    You have the switch positions backwards...pos 1 is bridge and pos 5 is neck.

    For neck: Jazz is a good choice
    For middle: Mincer gave a good suggestion.
    For bridge: a C/59 hybrid or a Custom 5 would be a better choice (you may like a JB, but it's not very versatile...output is too high but mostly it has that upper mids nasal tone going on that you can't get rid of).
    A on/on/on will give you series/split/parallel. I suppose it is available in a 4PDT, but I would suggest having 2 DPDT on/on/on switches so you can control each humbucker separately (like in your diagram).

    Leave a comment:


  • Deim0s
    replied
    Hello everyone, thank you so much for the responses!

    I've been putting a lot of thought into this project, so I really appreciate the help. I'm gonna start buying the pickups and electronics this week, I'm nervous and excited for my first guitar modding.

    I'm currently leaning for these pickups:

    Neck: SH-2n Jazz
    Middle: SL59-1b Little '59 for Strat
    Bridge: SH-6b Distortion Trembucker OR SH-4 JB Trembucker

    Since I'll first buy the pickups, I'll need some opinions on the TB-6 Distortion or the TB-4 JB for the bridge position.
    I kind of like the sound of JB better, but I've read the Distortion has better harmonics. I was thinking that the 4 Position of the Little '59 plus the distortion could make up for versatility.
    I was also torn between a '59 and the Jazz for the neck, but then i realized the '59 is a 2 conductor pickup, so I can't use it for this project.

    Originally posted by Bowtomecha View Post
    You can use a two way 4pdt toggle switch for this. Imagine two DPDT switches but both controlled by one lever. You can have series/parallel for each humbucker simultaneously but electrically separate. The contact pattern will repeat for both sides of the switch so as long as you follow the color coding of your pickup manufacturer, the connections will be exactly the same.
    This is a really interesting concept, would it be possible to have an on/on/on switch for also adding coil-splitting?

    Originally posted by ArtieToo View Post
    I'd be careful not to get a cheap Chinese switch in this application. Get a good quality NKK, or similar. Also note, that at some suppliers, (like Mouser), an ON-ON switch may be designated as ON-NONE-ON. Same thing. They're just saying that there is no middle position.
    Good call. I'm gonna get Mouser electronics from a local supplier.

    The attached file is of a wiring diagram I've found online, does it look good? I know it doesn't do the same, but it seems really interesting.

    Leave a comment:


  • ArtieToo
    replied
    Originally posted by Deim0s View Post
    . . . focused on versatility and bright sound . . .
    I'm not sure I'd select Distortions for "bright." But let others, who are actually performing musicians, weigh in on this.

    Originally posted by Bowtomecha View Post
    It must be an on/on 4pdt with two positions. They come in smaller arm size as shown and larger arm ones which seem a bit bulky for what you need. These aren’t expensive on eBay since they’re two position switches.
    I'd be careful not to get a cheap Chinese switch in this application. Get a good quality NKK, or similar. Also note, that at some suppliers, (like Mouser), an ON-ON switch may be designated as ON-NONE-ON. Same thing. They're just saying that there is no middle position.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bowtomecha
    replied
    It must be an on/on 4pdt with two positions. They come in smaller arm size as shown and larger arm ones which seem a bit bulky for what you need. These aren’t expensive on eBay since they’re two position switches.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bowtomecha
    replied
    You can use a two way 4pdt toggle switch for this. Imagine two DPDT switches but both controlled by one lever. You can have series/parallel for each humbucker simultaneously but electrically separate. The contact pattern will repeat for both sides of the switch so as long as you follow the color coding of your pickup manufacturer, the connections will be exactly the same.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mincer
    replied
    You would need 1 switch per pickup to switch between series + parallel. As far as changing the pickups, it really depends on what you don't like about the stock pickups. What do you want from a middle pickup? If you want versatility, I would suggest a Classic Stack in the middle for a noiseless true single coil sound. What do you want to change about the neck and bridge pickups? The Distortions are great pickups, but not the most versatile. I'd choose lower output pickups and boost them later on, if versatility is a big deal to you.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X