HSS - Use S1 switch or no?

[PFDarkside]

Actually, this is pretty simple. Buy a 25k CTS pot. Gently bend back the four tabs of the cover on both pots. (Red arrows.) Swap wafers, and reassemble both. The 25k becomes a spare pot of whatever value your S-1 was, and your S-1 becomes 25k.

You don't need to disassemble the actual switch part as I did. I did that because I'm doing a more extensive experiment.
(Converting it to 6PDT to parallel three Red Devils with one switch.)

Very interesting... is there any risk to damaging anything, so I end up with 0 functioning parts?

[ArtieToo]

Very interesting... is there any risk to damaging anything, so I end up with 0 functioning parts?

Not really. If you have an old pot laying around, try it first. I've removed the cover on pots many times in the past years, usually to do a deep clean, and have never had a problem. Just bend the tabs back gently, and then re-press them gently. They will always do at least once before you risk breaking them off.

Make sure you get the same "series" of CTS pot so that the wafer is the same. Almost all newer CTS pots will be the right style. The "trick" is to find one in 25k.

Also, look closely at the pic, before you order, and make sure it doesn't have any kind of retaining ring around the shaft. The shaft must be able to slide out of the bushing. Then again, you normally only see this with push-pull pots. Shouldn't be a problem.

Like this:

[MakerDP]

OK researching a blower switch... I don't think I'd like that at all on this guitar so I'm thinking making it into a "neck always on" switch will be the most appropriate for my use since I will be using the blade to auto-split the RD.

Thanks for all your input and suggestions guys. I appreciate it. And cool stuff about the S1 conversion there ArtieToo

[Clint 55]

You can make it a neck and bridge on switch so you don't have to do 2 switches at once to get to neck and bridge. Say you're on the neck pickup and you want to get to neck/bridge, you only hit the switch and it engages neck and bridge, instead of having to hit the button and then the switch to bridge.

Another possibility besides blower is pickups in series.

[MakerDP]

Got it all wired-up. While I installed the S1 Switch, I didn't actually wire anything up to it at this point. If I do end up doing that I will likely just do a "neck on" for it.

Aside from that, boy that Red Devil is really nice sounding PUP in this guitar! (Roadhouse Deluxe Strat with maple board)

It's Olympic White and took the opportunity to switch the plain mint green PG to a mint green pearloid.

[Jack_TriPpEr]

I don't know how the eff to use a s1 switch.

Here you go. You're welcome.

[Jack_TriPpEr]

Actually, this is pretty simple. Buy a 25k CTS pot. Gently bend back the four tabs of the cover on both pots. (Red arrows.) Swap wafers, and reassemble both. The 25k becomes a spare pot of whatever value your S-1 was, and your S-1 becomes 25k.

You don't need to disassemble the actual switch part as I did. I did that because I'm doing a more extensive experiment.
(Converting it to 6PDT to parallel three Red Devils with one switch.)

Artie,

If the 6PDT conversion works out successfully, could you PLEASE post a how-to thread about it? I could really use a 6PDT type switch for some witing schemes I have in mind.

[ArtieToo]

Artie,

If the 6PDT conversion works out successfully, could you PLEASE post a how-to thread about it? I could really use a 6PDT type switch for some witing schemes I have in mind.

Absolutely. I always have too many irons in the fire, but I'll try to get on this quick.

P.S. If this works, I also have a killer new wiring scheme that requires a 6PDT switch. But I don't want to post it 'til I test it.