#@$@#$!14%$%!~~!!!! Poly peeled off my Warmoth!

Re: #@$@#$!14%$%!~~!!!! Poly peeled off my Warmoth!

it's stratman guys.. what do you expect
 
Re: #@$@#$!14%$%!~~!!!! Poly peeled off my Warmoth!

Stratman said:
Why not buy the real product from Fender, Gibson etc and be over with it.

Because Fender and Gibson have never made ANYTHING that appeals to me anywhere near as much as this guitar does.

<-------

I got my beautiful warmouth used, so i got an awesome guitar for a great price, i've playied my fair share of fenders, and this guitar more than keeps up with them.
 
Re: #@$@#$!14%$%!~~!!!! Poly peeled off my Warmoth!

When it comes to Warmoth stuff they do great work..... the best part is instead of buying say a stock Fender strat and modding the heck out of it you can pick and choose every detail pretty well..... wood type, 1 piece body is an option, routing options, trem and hardtails.... Neck Width, Fret Size, Neck wood, Contour shape, Radius, inlays, Plus you can either get Warmoths paint job, or hire someone to do a Nitro job, or paint it yourself.. Then pick all the best hardware and pickups you want...

So many options are open when picking Warmoth stuff... The trick with Warmoth is they make amazing parts for sure, but when combined with a top guitar maker/tech to put it together with all the little details it can be one of the best guitars you have ever played! It can be wonderful... I'm still planning another Warmoth put together by a good shop i know, but funds are tight these days....
 
Re: #@$@#$!14%$%!~~!!!! Poly peeled off my Warmoth!

Stratman said:
Yea, I still blame Warmoth, just because...

Rant, rant, rant - For everyone who love Warmoth - Good luck.

Why not buy the real product from Fender, Gibson etc and be over with it.

Because someone is alway looking to improve - so what I am sure that this post will get a lot of pedantic responses.


Flame on boys!

Quit being a tool. Back it up or shut up.

As for Warmoth I don't need luck. I've built 13 instruments for myself and others and never had issue one. You need to take it up with your builder.

Mine is the one on the left. Any questions?
http://members.toast.net/dwyss/pics/VH.jpg
 
Re: #@$@#$!14%$%!~~!!!! Poly peeled off my Warmoth!

Guys, please stop feeding the troll. I'm going to post a pic or two in a minute.
 
Re: #@$@#$!14%$%!~~!!!! Poly peeled off my Warmoth!

Okay, here's a shot of the top as it is right now:
finish-peel01.jpg


In this pic it's pretty difficult to tell where the damage is, but you can see it if you look closely. I made an outline in the pic below to show where it is.

finish-peel02.jpg


Today I'm going to continue with the sanding and spraying. I'll post a pic tomorrow morning if there's any improvement.
 
Re: #@$@#$!14%$%!~~!!!! Poly peeled off my Warmoth!

Never mind that...
That is one hot guitar!!!!
Are you going for two volume knobs one tone knob electronics or two tone one volume?
 
Re: #@$@#$!14%$%!~~!!!! Poly peeled off my Warmoth!

Shame about the finish, i hope you can sort it out, i can't wait to see the finished article.
 
Re: #@$@#$!14%$%!~~!!!! Poly peeled off my Warmoth!

dude....





i hate to be the one to tell you....








but your guitar is upside down ;)
 
Re: #@$@#$!14%$%!~~!!!! Poly peeled off my Warmoth!

ARGH ... something bad happened again.

I was sanding, and must have caught an edge. Part of the finish started peeling again. It was weird, because it was peeling off an existing coat of poly, not off the paint.

So I started sanding it more to try and get it all off, but now it looks really ratty and mottled.

I'm going to cut my losses and start over. I'm stripping all the poly off and doing a few coats of paint to get a nice base. Then I'm going to re-do the poly. I'm going to try and use the same brand as the paint this time. I'm getting the feeling that the stuff I'm using (Minwax) isn't compatible with the paint.

Sigh ... all this does is frustrate me. I have been looking forward to playing this thing for so long now. :(
 
Re: #@$@#$!14%$%!~~!!!! Poly peeled off my Warmoth!

ratherdashing said:
ARGH ... something bad happened again. I was sanding, and must have caught an edge. Part of the finish started peeling again. It was weird, because it was peeling off an existing coat of poly, not off the paint. So I started sanding it more to try and get it all off, but now it looks really ratty and mottled. I'm going to cut my losses and start over. I'm stripping all the poly off and doing a few coats of paint to get a nice base. Then I'm going to re-do the poly. I'm going to try and use the same brand as the paint this time. I'm getting the feeling that the stuff I'm using (Minwax) isn't compatible with the paint. Sigh ... all this does is frustrate me. I have been looking forward to playing this thing for so long now. :(

Dang dude, where'd you get this finish so I can make sure I never buy it? Sucks, I sure hope you can get better results. Hey, by the way, maybe it's the humidity... can you try to do the paint job in a very dehydrated place? Maybe that will help... what state do you live in?
 
Re: #@$@#$!14%$%!~~!!!! Poly peeled off my Warmoth!

you know what you need to do? Buy some of that **** they got a Sherwin Williams. "One thick coat of ours equals 50 regular coats of the leading brand". That ****s like 1/2" thick. Just make sure you take care of the drips.
 
Re: #@$@#$!14%$%!~~!!!! Poly peeled off my Warmoth!

Minwax is a generic furniture finish. Good for going over stained woods. What brand of primer, color and clear will you reshoot with?
 
Re: #@$@#$!14%$%!~~!!!! Poly peeled off my Warmoth!

butnut said:
Minwax is a generic furniture finish. Good for going over stained woods. What brand of primer, color and clear will you reshoot with?

I'm not stripping all the way to the wood, so I'm not going to use primer. The paint is Duplicolor Truck/Van/SUV paint. I'll go with some Duplicolor clear coat this time instead of the Minwax.
 
Re: #@$@#$!14%$%!~~!!!! Poly peeled off my Warmoth!

I recommend a coat of primer. Scuff sand the body, a thin coat of primer (Duplicolor) your color and the Duplicolor clear. No need to do any sanding between coats either...you can 400 sand the primer if it's not real smooth. Wipe clean, shoot color letting each coat flash dry, pretty sure Dupli is lacquer. If it's hot, about 5-10 minutes between coats. Let your last color dry 15 munutes and shoot the clear. Go light at first, nevermind if it's dry looking. Let flash dry and continue to build letting each coat flash dry. Final coat can be more 'wet' for gloss off. May not have to do the sand/buff if it's glossy, but up to you. Good luck.
 
Re: #@$@#$!14%$%!~~!!!! Poly peeled off my Warmoth!

That sucks, RD. I'd have to agree that it sounds like the clear coat may not be compatible with the color coats. I've tried to repair poly before and it's a PITA. I'd rather reshoot the whole thing, even though it's a lot of work it'll likely look 10x better in the end.

Best of luck, man.
 
Re: #@$@#$!14%$%!~~!!!! Poly peeled off my Warmoth!

butnut said:
I recommend a coat of primer. Scuff sand the body, a thin coat of primer (Duplicolor) your color and the Duplicolor clear. No need to do any sanding between coats either...you can 400 sand the primer if it's not real smooth. Wipe clean, shoot color letting each coat flash dry, pretty sure Dupli is lacquer. If it's hot, about 5-10 minutes between coats. Let your last color dry 15 munutes and shoot the clear. Go light at first, nevermind if it's dry looking. Let flash dry and continue to build letting each coat flash dry. Final coat can be more 'wet' for gloss off. May not have to do the sand/buff if it's glossy, but up to you. Good luck.

Thanks for the advice. This whole thing is stressing me out when I'm supposed to be on vacation and relaxing, so I'm putting it aside until next week. I think I will shoot some primer and sand it just to make sure I have a smooth surface to paint over.
 
Re: #@$@#$!14%$%!~~!!!! Poly peeled off my Warmoth!

I've had good luck shooting with Re-ranch rattle cans on occasion, and also using a HVLP gun with catlytic systems. You must be careful to shoot compatiable paint coats.

Most Dupli color is laquer and while you can usually shoot laquer over a poly base, you can't usually shoot a poly clear over a laquer base. Also when shooting a base-clear system, shoot the clear within 8 hours of the color coat, or scuff with 600 and re-color coat first.

When putting more clear over clear several days apart, scuff with 600 or it won't stick.

With metalic base coats you don't want to sand it before the clear coats. Sanding will flatten out the metalic flakes and ruin the metalic effect. I like to go to 500 or 600 grit on the primer coat before a metalic color coat. Also you will need at least three clear coats before any wet sanding, if you plan on wet sanding with out sanding through to the color coat, or beyond.

You can color sand non metalic color coats.

Any wet sanding on a poly clear coat will dull the finish and that will require high speed buffing with a high quality buffing compound to rectify.

With the primer and color coat you can shoot multiple light coats and be okay, but with clear coats (particularly poly) you want to avoid shooting it too dry. Too wet is always better than too dry when it comes to clear coats. You want to always shoot top coats medium wet, or just enough to hopefully avoid runs. With a top clear coat you will want to be a closer distance than typical shooting distances of primer and color coats, when shooting.
 
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