Re: 1959 Les Paul replicas - build progress
Wow thanks for all the nice comments guys! I'll definately post a thread for my doubleneck Strat progress pics then if there's interest.
Very cool work you are doing!
i've been wanting to make a router jig like that for vintage truss rods for a long time.. only i have ever little details on what the curve radius should be and how deep to go...
I had the same problem, the best I got was Melvyn Hiscock's book on how to make an electric, where he says the following:
- Most of his channels tend to follow an even curve, from 1/8" to 3/16" dip in the middle
- The anchor on a neck like a Les Paul should be around 2" past the neck joint location into the tenon
- Fender channels are more curved, and so the truss rods can be sometimes very sensetive to adjustment
- because I had so little details this channel wasn't perfect, the curve ended up about 1/4" deeper in the middle than at the ends, I made the rails 1/4" deeper in the middle but expected the router base length to effectively lessen the radius and make it around 3/16" deeper instead - they didn't. Because the curve was greater than a normal Gibson one, I had to make the channel deeper in the middle in order to get the small plate behind the nut to fit properly - leaving only 2mm gap between the channel and the back of the neck if I shape it to a typical '59 profile! Fortunately I dont mind having the neck a bit chunkier, more like a '58 but it took me by surprise - and taught me a lesson to keep checking depth constantly and draw everything out first! I also decided to make the anchor at the body end a bit closer to the end of the tenon, so the original anchor slot had to be plugged but it's such a small bit of wood it shouldn't impact the tone whatsoever.
I'd probably recommend leaving about 1/8" minimum wood between the bottom of the channel and the back of the neck for peace of mind, just bear in mind the rod has to be below the central mass of the neck to work effectively, so the more risk you take the more efficient the rod will be (in theory).
Way, way cool project!!
Just out of curiosity... why are you calling it a "1959 Les Paul replica?"
Mainly because it makes a good title, partly because the aim is to build this guitar using all the same features Gibson did on their 59's that may impact on tone (some not even done on Historics) such as having a sheathless truss rod, using hot hide glue for all the joints, making sure the flame top is eastern hard rock maple and not soft maple like many current flame tops, and also because the measurements I'm using to build the guitar were taken from a Les Paul made in 1959. I'm not going for a 99.9% exact replica, as it'll never be a real vintage Les Paul, and why not stamp my own personality and taste on it by adding things like a Korina back, custom wiring etc.
If you do a lot of planing/spokeshaving, get a set of diamond stones from dmt. You can get a set of 3 or 4 of them. They are so much better than oil or water stones, and they never get curved in the middle. Seriously, they make sharpening those blades so much easier!
Thanks for the tip, I do most of the work on guitars with hand tools like planes and spokeshaves actually, I prefer the finish they leave when finely tuned and the leave so much less mess! Right now I just use waterstones and 2000/2500 grit sandpaper for fine finishing of the blade edge, and have been wondering what method to use for a bit rougher work such as shaping the primary bevels. I've been toying with a high speed grinder a bit, but it's nowhere near as easy to use as a stone so I'll check out some of the coarser DMT stones.
with an LP build you route the wiring channel and controll areas before glueing on the maple top... at least that is how i've seen it done.... so far i have yet to build an LP... i've made lots of strat and tele bodies and necks... this thread makes me want to start my own LP build!
Yep that's right, it's definately the right way round, it better be as it took hours and hours to transfer the plan drawing onto the wood meticulously with a pencil and square edge ruler - when this one is cut out though I'll be able to use a follower bit with the router and make a template from it for all the other Les Pauls I make, so its time worth investing. I could've drawn out the control cavity location on the other side, but it doesn't make a difference as it gets routed straight through.
