Adjusting Strat Bridge.

[drjones]

My strat at moment has a floating tremolo. Seeing as that I never use it, I was thinking that I would put the tremolo flat with the body.

Now I know I would have to loosen strings and then tighten springs and claw up to pull the tremolo down, but would I have to readjust the saddle height as well? intonation would definitley have to be reset, but having never done it, I don't know.

Or is this another case where if it is playing well I should leave it alone.

Thanks lads.

 

[Gearjoneser]

Re: Adjusting Strat Bridge.

If you don't have extensive experience with setting saddle height, truss rod, and intonation, it's best to leave it to someone who does. That said, if you want it anchored down, just tighten everything down. Then, get every saddle adjusted to the perfect height, make sure the trussrod is right where it should be, then lastly. intonate the guitar so every note on the neck is as close to dead center on a tuner as humanly possible.

 

[drjones]

Re: Adjusting Strat Bridge.

Cheers, I have mucked about with everything else, like truss rods and intonation on other guitars, just never on the strat. I think i'll wait till i put new pickups in it, and set it up then, rather than doing it twice.

Thanks for reply

 

[Mr. B]

Re: Adjusting Strat Bridge.

Just tightening everything down will leave your bridge kicked up in the front. Not the best thing for clean string take-off from the bridge or string height adjustment. Do what Eric Clapton does and put a shaped block wedge of wood between the bridge block and the body of the guitar, then tighten the springs down to hold that in place. That way your bridge is still fairly flat and it is blocked solid to the body of the guitar.

 

[ElUnoAstuto]

Re: Adjusting Strat Bridge.

I don't know if it helps you, but FWIW, I usually loosen the strings and the 6 screws on the bridge, then tighten down the outside two so the bridge sits nice and even, then just tighten the remaining 4 screws down snug, don't wrench 'em, because the idea is to get the bridge flush with the body. More surface contact = more string vibration transfer to the body.

After that, I usually take two stacks of pennys/nickels/dimes, whichever gives you the most snug fit, and wedge it in between the back of the sustain block(the side facing away from the springs/spring claw) and the body on both the treble and bass sides, and then just force them down as deep as they go, to set the bridge in place flush with the body.

After that, I'll usually add springs until I have 5, and then tighten the spring claw all the way to the wood. If it's a strat guitar I use for rock/blues, I'll leave it at that.

If I use the guitar for hi gain/metal stuff, I'll put a block of foam underneath the springs, because it stops some of the "ringing" when you're doing quick stops, and it also cuts down on feedback/microphonics at high volumes. That's my usual routine when it comes to Strats/strat style guitars.

If it's a floyd, I cut a block of wood for both sides of the sustain block, set the bridge flush with the body, and then set the bridge in place. It has to be a PERFECT fit, with no play in the Floyd(for me anyways! ) With my Jackson, I don't even use the locking nut, and with the Floyd set this way, I've never had a tuning issue, and changing strings becomes a breeze. Hope this helps ya'.
-Jordan