Artie
Peaveyologist
Hey Dave . . . I think I just found that switch at WD Music. https://www.wdmusic.com/wd-music-pro...h-details.html
And in Ft, Meyers, to boot.
Edit: I just ordered one to check out.
Last edited:
Another Megaswitch Question
- Thread starter Mincer
- Start date
Hey Dave . . . I think I just found that switch at WD Music. https://www.wdmusic.com/wd-music-pro...h-details.html
And in Ft, Meyers, to boot.
Edit: I just ordered one to check out.
Artie
Peaveyologist
And if you get that switch, here's how I'd wire it. In step one, you simply install the violet and cyan jumpers while the switch is out on your bench and easy to get to. Add a leader for ground and a leader for to reach your vol / tone pots. Step 2, install the switch into the guitar and just add the wires from the pups to their associated terminal.
With this wiring scheme, ALL coils that are "off" are shorted out. Even the whole neck pup when the bridge is selected and vice-versa. And of course, the stud coils are both shorted out when in the middle "screw coil" mode. It should be dead quiet in all positions and in all environments.
Make sense?
With this wiring scheme, ALL coils that are "off" are shorted out. Even the whole neck pup when the bridge is selected and vice-versa. And of course, the stud coils are both shorted out when in the middle "screw coil" mode. It should be dead quiet in all positions and in all environments.
Make sense?
Artie
Peaveyologist
By the way . . . one last little detail. I just noticed that one of the reason's that switch is about half the price of the Goldo is that they only use one wafer, instead of two. I actually think that's a great idea. It keeps the cost and size down. But, it also means the lower terminals are slightly offset from the top. And it's a mirror image. You need to be aware of that if you wire it up.
Artie
Peaveyologist
Sure. I posted it in post #43, but here it is again: https://www.wdmusic.com/wd-music-products-12-terminal-3-position-blade-switch-details.html
It definitely does the same thing as the Goldo switch. Just slightly different construction.
Ha! My ad blocker blocked the initial link. Thanks for sharing. If that does what you say, I think I am ordering one too!
If I ordered a neck pickup, I would get it RP (and not RW) providing I order a covered model and don't want to flip the magnet myself, right?
EDIT: I went and ordered the switch!
If I ordered a neck pickup, I would get it RP (and not RW) providing I order a covered model and don't want to flip the magnet myself, right?
EDIT: I went and ordered the switch!
Artie
Peaveyologist
I have to think about that a sec. I didn't realize a pup could be ordered that way. If that accomplishes the same thing as a mag flip, everything should be copacetic. :scratchch
Jack_TriPpEr
New member
If your goal is to combine two of the same type of coil (e.g. two slug coils, or two screw coils) from two separate humbuckers, you need to achieve Reverse Wind somehow if you want that combo to be hum-canceling. Hum-canceling requires both opposite magnetic polarity and opposite wind direction. Slug coils have the same wind direction as each other, likewise, so do screw coils. So... if you don't order Reverse Wind, just Reverse Magnetic Polarity (which I am not sure its possible to order that anyways), your result when the two are combined would not only be non-hum-canceling, but Out Of Phase. See attached chart below.
Now, you could get around that by swapping hot and cold on one of those two coils, to achieve a reverse wind. But why have to do that when you could just order w Reverse Wind in the first place, which is the default setup for that very reason?
Attachments
Artie
Peaveyologist
Jack; that's not quite correct. It's the same discussion I've had recently with Top-L. Hum-cancelling may be done that way, but you can also do it by having coils wound the same direction, and connected reverse polarity. Both coils of a Duncan pup, (and DiMarzio for that matter), are wound the same direction. They then connect them finish-to-finish. In other words, reverse polarity in order for the hum to cancel out. Then, the opposite polarity of magnetic pole that each coil "sees", brings the desired signal back into phase.
So, to summarize, you can wind both the same direction, and connect them reverse polarity. Or, you can wind them opposite, and connect them same polarity. (Start-to-finish.)
Jack_TriPpEr
New member
Yes, i agree. I think we're just running into semantics. Particularly, when i used "opposite wind direction" in the part you quoted from me, I only meant the need to achieve signal flow in one coil that is rhe opposite direction of how it flows in the other coil its being combined with.
Artie
Peaveyologist
Yes. It's easy in this forum.
It would be cool, however, if Duncan humbucker "sets" were sold with the neck being RW. I think most people like to split to inside or outside. Even their own diagrams reflect that.
Last edited:
Jack_TriPpEr
New member
Thats why I advised Mincer he could just swap hot and cold on one the coils to be combined. The point being to achieve reverse signal flow, since both slug coils or both screw coils being combined have the same wind direction.
PFDarkside
of the Forum
The nice thing about RW/RP is that if you ever pull it out from that guitar you don’t try to install it on another guitar forgetting the Mag is flipped and it’s out of phase. Just wire like a typical Duncan with black hot and green ground and it just so happens to cancel hum when you split to screws/studs.
Jack_TriPpEr
New member
Yes. It's easy in this forum.
It would be cool, however, if Duncan humbucker "sets" were sold with the neck being RW. I think most people like to split to inside or outside. Even their own diagrams reflect that.
Agreed.
Also, I am going to try to remember going-forward to call it "reverse signal flow " instead of "reverse wind direction" since the latter is really just (one of a couple) Means to achieving the former.
Last edited:
