King IzzO)))
Ultimate Kitten Puncher
Steve Alysis has been asking me for pics of what I did to my cab. I figured I post this for everyone, in case someone else wants to look into it too. I didn't take these pics intending to post them or anything, so they're not great, or complete, but you should be able to get the idea.
This is the Randall cab I got for $50 from my buddy before he moved to Chi-town. I sold two of the 70/80's for $60 and traded the other two as part of a swap for some UK T75's, muhahahaha. The cab is similar to an Orange, same dimensions, same style of build.
I took out the baffle board, the screws around the perimeter are all that was holding it in, and some were pretty loose. Then I removed the grill cloth from it, being careful not to rip the cloth. I then glued it back in using titebond in the area where the cloth was previously sandwiched, replaced the screws nice & tight. Then I filled the gap around the edges with liquid nails, just like caulking a bathtub. No more rattles.
The tolex was coming off in a few places, (this is where the lower quality of this cab is really apparent, rather than the wood quality, which is actually very solid). I glued it back down with some 3M stuff used for upholstery and stapled it back in where necessary. I'm no fancy lad, and I don't give a **** about staples being in the bottom of my cab, if you do, please hit yourself in the face repeatedly with a ball-peen hammer.
My father-in-law made a new grill frame for me on a CNC, just because it's more solid than taking a few separate pieces of wood to make one, but either method would work. I painted it and stapled the cloth onto it (all the stapled stuff was done with a legit upholstery air powered staple gun, but a standard Archer would probably have sufficed). I stuck and stapled some velco strips for mounting.
I don't have pics of it, but I drilled and put T-nuts in for the handles, replacing the wood screws (a couple were stripped), and put them in with locktite, so they won't loosen. Then I painted the whole inside of the cab, again, no pics of that.
I made some maple rails, like an Orange, the stock casters were ****, I hate them anyway. I just used a router on the ends to round 'em over. and drilled/countersunk holes for the mounting screws. Painted them (except the tops). I cut off the tolex around where the rails were to be mounted and sanded off the tolex glue. Then I glued and screwed the rails on with titebond.
As for the batting, I used some polyfill stuff, again upholstery ****. I've done foam too, but it's a bit too much. Fiberglass and cotton fill would probably work, Fender has used both, but this stuff is what it looks to me is what's in the Uberkabs, and it works great, won't make me itchy, and isn't a fire hazard. It's just stapled it onto the backboard. I also used sticky backed weatherstrip on the back mounts, but that's probably overkill.
I got the Mic Eliminator from Surface and installed that, but I still haven't tried it. I mainly got it for the 4/8-8/16 switch (the cab originally had 8 ohm speakers, I swapped them to 16's and used the 8/4-4 switch in my G-Flex to make it 16/8-8, haha). I've had a few different sets of speakers in it, but I like the V30/T75 setup best. So yeah, a little work, but it sounds like a whole lot more written out than it actually was, and I'd take the Pepsi challenge with damn near anything with it for metal.
...and yeah, that's a real GTO logo.
This is the Randall cab I got for $50 from my buddy before he moved to Chi-town. I sold two of the 70/80's for $60 and traded the other two as part of a swap for some UK T75's, muhahahaha. The cab is similar to an Orange, same dimensions, same style of build.
I took out the baffle board, the screws around the perimeter are all that was holding it in, and some were pretty loose. Then I removed the grill cloth from it, being careful not to rip the cloth. I then glued it back in using titebond in the area where the cloth was previously sandwiched, replaced the screws nice & tight. Then I filled the gap around the edges with liquid nails, just like caulking a bathtub. No more rattles.
The tolex was coming off in a few places, (this is where the lower quality of this cab is really apparent, rather than the wood quality, which is actually very solid). I glued it back down with some 3M stuff used for upholstery and stapled it back in where necessary. I'm no fancy lad, and I don't give a **** about staples being in the bottom of my cab, if you do, please hit yourself in the face repeatedly with a ball-peen hammer.
My father-in-law made a new grill frame for me on a CNC, just because it's more solid than taking a few separate pieces of wood to make one, but either method would work. I painted it and stapled the cloth onto it (all the stapled stuff was done with a legit upholstery air powered staple gun, but a standard Archer would probably have sufficed). I stuck and stapled some velco strips for mounting.
I don't have pics of it, but I drilled and put T-nuts in for the handles, replacing the wood screws (a couple were stripped), and put them in with locktite, so they won't loosen. Then I painted the whole inside of the cab, again, no pics of that.
I made some maple rails, like an Orange, the stock casters were ****, I hate them anyway. I just used a router on the ends to round 'em over. and drilled/countersunk holes for the mounting screws. Painted them (except the tops). I cut off the tolex around where the rails were to be mounted and sanded off the tolex glue. Then I glued and screwed the rails on with titebond.
As for the batting, I used some polyfill stuff, again upholstery ****. I've done foam too, but it's a bit too much. Fiberglass and cotton fill would probably work, Fender has used both, but this stuff is what it looks to me is what's in the Uberkabs, and it works great, won't make me itchy, and isn't a fire hazard. It's just stapled it onto the backboard. I also used sticky backed weatherstrip on the back mounts, but that's probably overkill.
I got the Mic Eliminator from Surface and installed that, but I still haven't tried it. I mainly got it for the 4/8-8/16 switch (the cab originally had 8 ohm speakers, I swapped them to 16's and used the 8/4-4 switch in my G-Flex to make it 16/8-8, haha). I've had a few different sets of speakers in it, but I like the V30/T75 setup best. So yeah, a little work, but it sounds like a whole lot more written out than it actually was, and I'd take the Pepsi challenge with damn near anything with it for metal.
...and yeah, that's a real GTO logo.
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