ErikH
Well-known member
A buddy of mine had one of those. Sounded great thru an Avatar 2x12 loaded with a Vintage 30 and a H30. I wasn't so much intimidated by it, it was just more than I need from an amp. At the time we were in a band together and he had that, I was running a Marshall JCM900 MkIII High Gain Master Volume. Simple one row of controls with two master volumes switchable on the panel or foot switch. The perfect Marshall for me. Sold it and went with a smaller setup. These days I have zero need for a 100 watt head or even a half stack for that matter. Yeah, they sound great but overkill for where I play lately and even then, we keep the stage volume low and mic thru the PA. My back likes the lighter load.
It would be wise to take that to a tech. If it burned the fuse and the fuse holder is burning the PCB, there's a reason why somewhere down the line. A resistor and/or cap could have floated out of spec and needs to be replaced. If more current is flowing than what should be and no fuse is there to blow to stop it, you've eliminated the dam (so to speak) and that extra current can flow to components down the line risking damage to them. Then you have a real big problem in your hands.
It would be wise to take that to a tech. If it burned the fuse and the fuse holder is burning the PCB, there's a reason why somewhere down the line. A resistor and/or cap could have floated out of spec and needs to be replaced. If more current is flowing than what should be and no fuse is there to blow to stop it, you've eliminated the dam (so to speak) and that extra current can flow to components down the line risking damage to them. Then you have a real big problem in your hands.