Baltar
New member
i'm going to do biasing my first time and appreciate any feedback if
my short description here is rather ok, or wrong.
some time ago in another thread i found that post from Stratdeluxer97
so all i have to do, is to follow these instructions and use the
calculator here ??...
http://studentweb.eku.edu/justin_holton/bias.html
(scroll down to the bottom of the page)
fill in values A which is 12W for my 6V6, value B which i get from following
Stratdeluxer's instruction and also C,E.
The reslult needs then to be matched with the testpoint (1 ohm resistor
again) with trimming around the small blue pot using a screwdriver?
if that is all ...... :question: ....
this sounds quite easy to me - is that really all to do?
topic crosscheck:
1)
i like this article, but my neighbours would kill me for this ...
http://studentweb.eku.edu/justin_holton/bias.html#byear
2)
i know you shouldn't rely on the unwanted glow of tube parts as bias check, ...
i just want to know:
I read some articles, saying that only thing which should be glowing in
the tube is orange shaft in the middle.
What about the upper and lower 'attachment' ? what if they start
slightly to glow red at the inner countour (very close to the shaft)
after some time?
thanks in advance for bringing verification or correction to my view
------------------------------------------------------------------
i hope i correctly described the technical part in english - sorry if not
my short description here is rather ok, or wrong.
some time ago in another thread i found that post from Stratdeluxer97
STRATDELUXER97 said:On the 6L6/6V6 BF amp we'll use as an example,you do the following...
On pin 8 of each output tube inside the amp and at the tube socket...You disconnect the braided ground wire and you place a 1 ohm 1% resistor rated for 2 watts or higher in series and in between the ground wire and pin 8 of each output socket...This resistor is in "series" between pin 8 and ground...Pin 8 is the cathode...
So...You now have one end of the resistor soldered to pin 8....The other end of that resistor gets soldered to the grounded braided wire...
The resistor changes milliamps to millivolts....You place the red lead on pin 8 on one end of the resistor and the black lead on the grounded end of the resistor,set you meter to read in millivolts......Set your amp to a value in millivolts normally within the range of 30 to 40 millivolts....Use the tube giving you the highest reading as the one to set to....
There is a specific formula based on tube plate dissipation and plate voltages that I have written down,but I've been biasing my own amps for many many years now and so I know what to set my amp bias to....
so all i have to do, is to follow these instructions and use the
calculator here ??...
http://studentweb.eku.edu/justin_holton/bias.html
(scroll down to the bottom of the page)
fill in values A which is 12W for my 6V6, value B which i get from following
Stratdeluxer's instruction and also C,E.
The reslult needs then to be matched with the testpoint (1 ohm resistor
again) with trimming around the small blue pot using a screwdriver?
if that is all ...... :question: ....
this sounds quite easy to me - is that really all to do?
topic crosscheck:
1)
i like this article, but my neighbours would kill me for this ...
http://studentweb.eku.edu/justin_holton/bias.html#byear
2)
i know you shouldn't rely on the unwanted glow of tube parts as bias check, ...
i just want to know:
I read some articles, saying that only thing which should be glowing in
the tube is orange shaft in the middle.
What about the upper and lower 'attachment' ? what if they start
slightly to glow red at the inner countour (very close to the shaft)
after some time?
thanks in advance for bringing verification or correction to my view
------------------------------------------------------------------
i hope i correctly described the technical part in english - sorry if not
Last edited: