Bit off more than I can chew, point me in the right direction.

[Benjamin]

So the guitar is a 2013 Fender Marauder, parts I have to be installed and the purpose for which they are to be used.
Seymour Duncan Pearly Gates (bridge),
Seymour Duncan Antiquity JM (neck),
3-way slider 1 bridge 8 lug (hum/off/split),
3-way slider 2 neck 8 lug (on/off/phase reverse),
Mini toggle 1 bridge (series/parallel) for humbucker only not series parallel of both pickups,
Mini toggle 2 bridge (normal/blower switch),
Mini toggle 3 neck (normal/blower switch),
500k linear pot bridge volume,
500k audio taper bridge tone,
.022 oil & paper cap bridge,
280k linear pot neck volume,
250k audio taper pot neck tone,
.047 oil & paper cap neck,
I would like to run the blower switches after the series parallel switch, and (hum/off/split) switch for bridge, and after the (on/off/phase reverse) switch, for neck. From there I would like to run to independent volume, and tone pots. The output jack was moved to the butt end of the guitar les Paul style, three pots were put in the control plate, and one under the bridge pickup, the lower horn where the previous 5-way selector was contain, has been routed out to accommodate the new switches. Any help in signal path, or diagrams I could tie together would be awesome.

 

[Benjamin]

Re: Bit off more than I can chew, point me in the right direction.

Hand drawn layout.

 

[Benjamin]

Re: Bit off more than I can chew, point me in the right direction.

The very real, not hypothetical guitar, the pickguard is currently fashioned from very sturdy cardboard, until final placement is decided. In the picture it is only setup for 2 mini toggles, in the lower horn, saw that three will fit, though, so it will be added. Paint was done by DRL Graphics.

 

[Artie]

Re: Bit off more than I can chew, point me in the right direction.

May I make a suggestion? And I'm not trying to talk you out of anything you want. But I think there may be a better way to do this. More intuitive control layout, and much simpler wiring too. (I'd provide the diagram.) You will need to sacrifice just one leetle-bitty thing. Have a "blower" switch only for the bridge pup.

Make the neck and bridge tone pots push-pulls. NT splits the neck. BT does phase.
Now you just need 3 6-lug slide switches.
1. Neck on-off.
2. Bridge on-off.
3. Bridge ser/par.

When both 1 & 2 are "off", it is the bridge blower function. That way you never have both pups off, which could result in a loud amp hum. (You're "floating" the input to the amp.

The cool thing about this layout is that you can just buy, (from MojoTone and others), the mounting plate for those three slide switches.

Your axe would look like this:

 

[Benjamin]

Re: Bit off more than I can chew, point me in the right direction.

May I make a suggestion? And I'm not trying to talk you out of anything you want. But I think there may be a better way to do this. More intuitive control layout, and much simpler wiring too. (I'd provide the diagram.) You will need to sacrifice just one leetle-bitty thing. Have a "blower" switch only for the bridge pup.

Make the neck and bridge tone pots push-pulls. NT splits the neck. BT does phase.
Now you just need 3 6-lug slide switches.
1. Neck on-off.
2. Bridge on-off.
3. Bridge ser/par.

When both 1 & 2 are "off", it is the bridge blower function. That way you never have both pups off, which could result in a loud amp hum. (You're "floating" the input to the amp.

The cool thing about this layout is that you can just buy, (from MojoTone and others), the mounting plate for those three slide switches.

Your axe would look like this:

View attachment 62242

A.) thank you for a reply, so there are a couple of complications with you suggestion. 1.) I already have the parts above, 2.) I would really prefer not having the Jag plate on it, just not on this guitar, and 3.) the control cavity for tone and volume were enlarged to accomidate oil & paper caps, but the cavity isn't large enough for 2 push/pull and 2 oil & paper caps. I have also considered the bridge 3-way to be series/parallel/split, then mini toggle 1 would be a kill switch, then toggle 2 bridge blower, toggle 3 neck blower. I like the look of the current layout. My pots and caps came from RS Guitarworks and are all American made. Switches and jack are Switchcraft, the mini toggle are from All-parts.

 

[Benjamin]

Re: Bit off more than I can chew, point me in the right direction.

Toggle 1 Killswitch, in that it is a bridge on/off, into the blower switch. That path actually sounds easier because you would go through the slider, the mini toggle 1 would act as a pass through to the blower in normal position and would be off in the broken circuit off position. Thoughts?

 

[Benjamin]

Re: Bit off more than I can chew, point me in the right direction.

Also now thinking about it the bridge switch sould preferably work (parallel/series/split). I see myself using series and split more often so they should be next to each other.

 

[Artie]

Re: Bit off more than I can chew, point me in the right direction.

When I get home tonight, I'll dig up my ser/split/par diagram for that switch.

 

[Benjamin]

Re: Bit off more than I can chew, point me in the right direction.

So I'm pretty sure I can piece it together from a few different diagrams, last question though,
Does the ground wires follow the path through all three switches (bridge), or go to the volume pots after the first switch, the blower switch didn't look like the ground went through the switch.