dazedandconfused001
New member
any real difference in quality, sound, or durability? ive played guitars with both and wired on both personally prefer the box style cuz it messes up less from what ive seen
vs 
vs 
box vs toggle
- Thread starter dazedandconfused001
- Start date
Discharged
New member
Re: box vs toggle
Funny you said that, my experience is just the opposite, 14-to-1 ratio.
/Peter
Funny you said that, my experience is just the opposite, 14-to-1 ratio.
/Peter
PFDarkside
of the Forum
Re: box vs toggle
It's interesting, there are about three users here that have had issues with the Switchcraft "real" three-way switch, and everyone else (my included) has had many issues with the cheapie box switch and replaced them with the open style and have had no issues...
It's interesting, there are about three users here that have had issues with the Switchcraft "real" three-way switch, and everyone else (my included) has had many issues with the cheapie box switch and replaced them with the open style and have had no issues...
dazedandconfused001
New member
Re: box vs toggle
the main issue i generally have with the open style (not switchcraft brand but the also cheap ones) is generally the cavity they route out is slightly too small and it bends the wires awkwardly so one pickup loses connection so the also cheap box kind has less to worry about because it is more compact. although to be fair my experience with both are limited ive wired on 3 open and 2 box kind ive only really been working on guitars for about a year
the main issue i generally have with the open style (not switchcraft brand but the also cheap ones) is generally the cavity they route out is slightly too small and it bends the wires awkwardly so one pickup loses connection so the also cheap box kind has less to worry about because it is more compact. although to be fair my experience with both are limited ive wired on 3 open and 2 box kind ive only really been working on guitars for about a year
blueman335
Mojo's Minions
Re: box vs toggle
+1. From my experience, box toggles are crap and fail regularly, and often at an inconvenient time. I've had enough boxes fail that if I get a new guitar with a box, I automatically replace it with a prong toggle. In fact, the only reason I've bought prong toggles is to use them as replacements for box toggles. Like AlexR said, the box types are throwaways, and I do that right off the bat to avoid aggravation later.
Prong types are far more reliable, and can be easily fixed if there ever is a problem. First, you can avoid almost all problems with prong toggles simply by putting the toggle in the middle position when the guitar isn't plugged in, so there's no pressure on the prongs (and they remain in a neutral position). If a prong toggle is left in either the bridge or neck position for too long, the prongs can eventually bend slightly and not make proper contact. The fix only takes a minute: Take the washer off the toggle (leave all the wires connected) and pull it out enough so you can look at it from the side. Move the toggle up & down and you can see where it's not making contact. Bend the offending prong(s) into place and put it back in. It should last for years.
There's no reason to have to deal with the uncertainties a box toggle. I'd never use one on stage.
+1. From my experience, box toggles are crap and fail regularly, and often at an inconvenient time. I've had enough boxes fail that if I get a new guitar with a box, I automatically replace it with a prong toggle. In fact, the only reason I've bought prong toggles is to use them as replacements for box toggles. Like AlexR said, the box types are throwaways, and I do that right off the bat to avoid aggravation later.
Prong types are far more reliable, and can be easily fixed if there ever is a problem. First, you can avoid almost all problems with prong toggles simply by putting the toggle in the middle position when the guitar isn't plugged in, so there's no pressure on the prongs (and they remain in a neutral position). If a prong toggle is left in either the bridge or neck position for too long, the prongs can eventually bend slightly and not make proper contact. The fix only takes a minute: Take the washer off the toggle (leave all the wires connected) and pull it out enough so you can look at it from the side. Move the toggle up & down and you can see where it's not making contact. Bend the offending prong(s) into place and put it back in. It should last for years.
There's no reason to have to deal with the uncertainties a box toggle. I'd never use one on stage.
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vanilla gorilla
New member
Re: box vs toggle
gotta agree, the box toggles ive seen don't compare, plus the ability to actually see the contacts on a switch is nice when hunting down issues is nice
gotta agree, the box toggles ive seen don't compare, plus the ability to actually see the contacts on a switch is nice when hunting down issues is nice
blueman335
Mojo's Minions
PFDarkside
of the Forum
Re: box vs toggle
If you are talking about you fitting a switch into a cavity that its not the right size to fit into, then I think this says more about your mechanical nous than the switch.
If you are on the other hand talking about stock routing and the switches that are fitted into them not being right from the factory.....maybe this is a good indicator of a need to improve the stable of guitars you work on/own.
If you are talking about you fitting a switch into a cavity that its not the right size to fit into, then I think this says more about your mechanical nous than the switch.
If you are on the other hand talking about stock routing and the switches that are fitted into them not being right from the factory.....maybe this is a good indicator of a need to improve the stable of guitars you work on/own.
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eclecticsynergy
Well-known member
Re: box vs toggle
Box switches always fail eventually. Open switches fail only rarely, though it has been known to happen.
Box switches always fail eventually. Open switches fail only rarely, though it has been known to happen.
Artie
Peaveyologist
Re: box vs toggle
Technically, these are all "toggle" switches. The real issue, failure wise, is to always "park" the switch in it's middle position. Otherwise, you're holding one spring contact back in a tension situation. Whenever I go into a guitar store, as I browse the guitars, I routinely walk around and flip these switches back to the middle. No charge.
P.S. If you missed my point, when you're done playing your LP, put the switch back in the middle.
Technically, these are all "toggle" switches. The real issue, failure wise, is to always "park" the switch in it's middle position. Otherwise, you're holding one spring contact back in a tension situation. Whenever I go into a guitar store, as I browse the guitars, I routinely walk around and flip these switches back to the middle. No charge.
P.S. If you missed my point, when you're done playing your LP, put the switch back in the middle.
metalchurch79
New member
Re: box vs toggle
I always wondered what the cycle life is like on each individual style of switch. Shouldnt they have that info available anyways?
I always wondered what the cycle life is like on each individual style of switch. Shouldnt they have that info available anyways?
blueman335
Mojo's Minions
Re: box vs toggle
How long they last depends to some extent on how often you use the toggle and how rough or gentle you are with it. Manufacturers spec box toggles because they're cheaper, and aren't concerned with whether they last as long as the rest of the guitar or not.
How long they last depends to some extent on how often you use the toggle and how rough or gentle you are with it. Manufacturers spec box toggles because they're cheaper, and aren't concerned with whether they last as long as the rest of the guitar or not.
metalchurch79
New member
Re: box vs toggle
Yea very true considering the low replacement cost.
Yea very true considering the low replacement cost.
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