Can we consolidate all the changes pickup adjustments make into one thread?

'59

New member
I've been trying to figure out the minutia of pickup adjustments, but my ears aren't as super precise as some of the people on here.

On a two humbucker guitar, what does raising or lowering a pickup do to the bass, mids, treble, and compression? What does raising or lowering the pole pieces do? How do I get the sound I want out of the middle position? What are some general tips?

On a Strat, how do I get the pickups to balance both volume and tone? What difference does polepiece stagger make? Are there any strategies that don't first pop up as obvious (eg. I've heard about lowering the middle pickup to make 2 and 4 quack more at the expense of volume in the middle position)

Any help?
 
Adjustments can make a big difference, but making the same changes to different pickups & guitars doesn't always yield the same result.
Still, there are general principles that mostly seem to hold true. And it'd be good to gather tips for specific problematic types like the Strat.
Great idea for a thread!
 
A couple first-hand experiences of mine.

Sinking the screw poles below the cover and raising the pickup close to the strings makes a humbucker scooped and thick sounding.
Raising the screw poles above the cover and lowering the pickup down around the ring or below the ring makes it low output and midrange heavy.

Something odd I've noticed with covered and uncovered versions of the same Duncan models:
Gold covers sound a touch brighter
No covers sound clearer
Nickel/chrome covers softens the top end a bit.

On Strat pickups, IME, raising the pickups makes them louder, have more character, but also they start to separate in sound; bridge, middle and neck become more distinct.
Lowering Strat singles makes them more even, where throwing the selector switch is like shifting the tone warmer or brighter with the same pickup.

Sometimes non-calibrated bridge pickups make it sound more authentic when trying to cop vintage sounds. Like two 7.5k P.A.F.s in a Les Paul, or three 6.5k Strat singles in a Strat.
 
All I have is this;

Make sure that you can fret notes at the highest fret (22nd or 24th) on every string without getting any wavering or weird harmonic overtones. If you get any weirdness then lower the pickup only just enough for the wavering to go away.
 
What eclecticsynergy said...

A given pickup might gain in openess when lowered, while another one will sound alive only when closer to the strings. It depends on the magnetic field involved, among other factors. That's why Bill Lawrence recommended a distance of "two nickels" (3.6mm) between wound strings and his L500's with ceramic mags while old Gibson docs mention a distance of 1,5mm only from strings to P.A.F. or P90's... Different strokes for different products.

Reason: BMT EQing won't necessarily change in the same way with different height settings according to the magnets at play - AlNi(Co), ceramic, neodymium...

"Compression" appears to me as a conceptual trap when it comes to pickups: some would say that lowering a pickup under strings "compresses" more its tone because it diminishes the harmonic content of transients... but our perception may differ : magnets being more or less sensitive to string excitation, they can change the speed/height of the attack for a given pickup. And a strong UNcompressed attack can ultimately "sound" compressed because it briefly overloads the first "host" in which the guitar is plugged (pedal or amp input, acting like a limiter because overloaded).

Rising or lowering the screw poles won't necessarily do the same if a pickup is covered or not. It won't even have the same effect if a pickup is asymetrically wound, or if the screws are made of an alloy with a different carbon content. :-/

Etc.


That being said...

-For "parallel" wiring (B+N in a LP, 2d or 4th positions in a Strat): carefully balanced volumes between pickups seems to give a more satisfying "qwack".

-Obviously, rising the screw poles of a humbucker makes the "South" coil louder. This coil being not at the same place for bridge and neck PU's, favoring it won't alter the tone in a same way - the boutique winder Zhangbucker sells a bridge "Slugbucker" whose "North" / slugs coil is wound hotter for more midrange and a neck "Woodbucker" based on the opposite recipe for more warmth with still a bit of sparkle... it suggests to set the screw poles down for the bridge pickup and up for the neck one, at least if the pickups are identical and symetrically wound... but again, this idea might be totally wrong with some transducers and guitars.

-Staggered poles are like screw poles protuding under the strings: they make them louder (and increase a bit the measured inductance, BTW). There's many web topics about unbalanced strings because of poles staggering - and about how to set pickups / screw poles under the strings according to the radius of the guitar... but a Gibson style HB or a Filter'Tron won't inspire the same advices on this question... and reliable sources may give really variable if not apparently opposite recommandations. ;-)

-A generalization that one should be authorized to trust (?) : rising a pickup progressively increases the harmonics comparatively to fundamental notes. IOW, it should give a brighter sound to a given string (albeit setting the bass side of a pickup closer to the strings will still favor the bass, of course: these effects are not mutually exclusive, they are indicative of "timbre" vs frequency response).

-About non obvious strategies: in a totally counterintuitive way, the height settings of a pickup A affect the sound of pickup B even when pickup A is disabled: it's due to how the magnetism of pickup A interacts with vibrating strings.



No need to argue about all that stuff until the end of times, since experimenting to check my statements or other claims is easy: it requires only a soundcard, a frequency analyzer (there's many excellent freewares for that), a bit of time and a rational methodology.

And finally, IMHO, nothing is worth trials and errors, since the best settings for a pickup / guitar might be the worst for the next ones. :-P

YMMV. :-)
 
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All good information, but this one part could use clarification for me...

the boutique winder Zhangbucker sells a bridge "Slugbucker" whose "North" / slugs coil is wound hotter for more midrange and a neck "Woodbucker" based on the opposite recipe for more warmth with still a bit of sparkle... it suggests to set the screw poles down for the bridge pickup and up for the neck one, at least if the pickups are identical and symetrically wound... but again, this idea might be totally wrong with some transducers and guitars.

Are you saying Zhangbucker suggests lowering the screws on the bridge and raising them on the neck for the Slugbucker/Woodbucker pair? Or are you saying lowering the screws on the bridge and raising them on the neck to imitate what the Slugbucker/Woodbucker pair accomplish via their winds?
 
Or are you saying lowering the screws on the bridge and raising them on the neck to imitate what the Slugbucker/Woodbucker pair accomplish via their winds?

Rather this. :-)

In my mind, it wouldn't imitate the harmonic spectrum of asymetrically wound pickups (for reasons like capacitive coupling between coils). But it might tend towards similar unbalanced levels of coils.
 
Rather this. :-)

In my mind, it wouldn't imitate the harmonic spectrum of asymetrically wound pickups (for reasons like capacitive coupling between coils). But it might tend towards similar unbalanced levels of coils.

Ok thank you very much. I appreciate it. I might try this, since it's so easy to try.
 
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