Re: Can you make conductive shielding paint?
I have no idea what paint you're talking about, but check my message.
A small bottle of silver or black conductive paint available in just any automotive supply store (cripes I used to buy mine at Bauhaus /Home Depot) designed specifically for repairing window defogging lines. Mopar, DuPont, and Motip produce it among others. There is a small brush in the cap, it actually looks a lot like "touch up" paint at first glance. One bottle is enough for 2-3 strat cavities depending on how thick you lay it on.
Any gummed aluminum metal tape is fine, copper has no advantage over it, but paint is easier. All you need is overall continuity. There are lots of misconceptions about shielding.
I agree, but the question asked was NOT what tape /foil to use for shielding in lieu of paint, but whether or not it is possible to mix proper shielding paint yourself. You hinted on it possibly being unfeasable, I explained why.
Most of the commercially available high-end products contain metal particles which give them their silvery or coppery color. The other option which is even less practical for home making due to the dust involved is graphite, this is the "black" shielding paint available from Stew-mac and other suppliers. When mixed or purchased pre mixed it is just as perfectly safe, but the mixing process is more dangerous with the graphite laced paint due to things like airborn carbon dust, which also presents an explosion hazard. But again, neither is really feasible to mix at home, so it´s a bit of a moot point whether one might explode and the other has a lower chance.
And that is the reason for my posts, answering the actual question instead of pushing my own personal way of doing it like most others in the thread. Saying "i do it that way, it works" is great, but it doesn´t answer the question at all.
Just about everybody knows that it
can be done with tape, but paint looks cleaner, guarantees continuity when properly applied, and causes less long term corrosion issues (aka "Grey fuzz"). This is why
almost no manufacturer that actually shields their guitars uses tape to do so. Another reason is that it´s significantly harder to properly apply the tape that it is to simply brush over the cavity with paint, = less training to achieve the same quality or better result. The only "bad" thing about paint is it has to dry for about an hour, wheras with tape you can go as soon as you´re done.
What I personally use these days is a silver bearing paint available in most electronics stores for about 5 bucks. I buy it in phioles with about 10 mL in them (enough for one guitar and a bit of touchup if necessary) and apply it after the sealer coats. Then I wire in the cavity grounds and reapply another 2 layers, covering the soldering lugs I just installed. Then color and clearcoats. The advantage is that the shield is now additionally protected by the color and clearcoats, and ground continiuity is guaranteed by simply soldering a single wire fronm teh back of a pot to the lug mounted on the cavity wall
