dudyherbek
New member
Re: Cusotm painting electric guitars: Has anyone tried their hand at it?
And these
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And these
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Cusotm painting electric guitars: Has anyone tried their hand at it?
- Thread starter Jethro_Dull
- Start date
dudyherbek
New member
Re: Cusotm painting electric guitars: Has anyone tried their hand at it?
And these
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And these
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Akira Shibasaki
New member
Re: Cusotm painting electric guitars: Has anyone tried their hand at it?
From Tokyo
From Tokyo
Bludave
New member
Re: Cusotm painting electric guitars: Has anyone tried their hand at it?
This is Taboo. A very special guitar that two of my closest friends put together. Robert Gagnon of lines and designs did the artwork on the guitar which was pinstriped and airbrushed as well as using whie gold leaf and variegated leaf to do the larger section on the upper body. It also has some tasteful graphics on the back and headstock. The guitar was put together by Cris Mirabella of Mirabella guitars and I got this on my birthday in 2009. At the time I was going through some health challenges and this really help me through it. It also plays and sounds great.
As far as finishing guitars go. I really prefer a nitro finish. I think they sound more responsive then poly or wart base finishes do. Nitro is much mor difficult to work with but if done properly is beautiful
This is Taboo. A very special guitar that two of my closest friends put together. Robert Gagnon of lines and designs did the artwork on the guitar which was pinstriped and airbrushed as well as using whie gold leaf and variegated leaf to do the larger section on the upper body. It also has some tasteful graphics on the back and headstock. The guitar was put together by Cris Mirabella of Mirabella guitars and I got this on my birthday in 2009. At the time I was going through some health challenges and this really help me through it. It also plays and sounds great.
As far as finishing guitars go. I really prefer a nitro finish. I think they sound more responsive then poly or wart base finishes do. Nitro is much mor difficult to work with but if done properly is beautiful
dominus
King Midas to Cheap Guitars
Re: Cusotm painting electric guitars: Has anyone tried their hand at it?
Well, looks like they chose my lineup of Deans for the Facebook cross post.
For the guy that asked why refinish Vendettas and Squiers? Easy.
I'd rather have 30 cheap guitars than one expensive one. Whether or not that one expensive guitar is 30 times better than any of those cheap ones, I'll let someone else decide. (I decided long ago there was no f_cking way any guitar is worth that kind of money.) It also gives me the ability to sell off a few (at a profit!) if I need some money, rather than selling off my one and only guitar at a huge loss. I can also pick and choose components if/when I decide to consolidate. I may have an exceptionally resonant body, a really nice feeling neck, and a great sounding pickup over three different guitars, and I can always swap parts around until I find the right combination.
Well, looks like they chose my lineup of Deans for the Facebook cross post.
For the guy that asked why refinish Vendettas and Squiers? Easy.
I'd rather have 30 cheap guitars than one expensive one. Whether or not that one expensive guitar is 30 times better than any of those cheap ones, I'll let someone else decide. (I decided long ago there was no f_cking way any guitar is worth that kind of money.) It also gives me the ability to sell off a few (at a profit!) if I need some money, rather than selling off my one and only guitar at a huge loss. I can also pick and choose components if/when I decide to consolidate. I may have an exceptionally resonant body, a really nice feeling neck, and a great sounding pickup over three different guitars, and I can always swap parts around until I find the right combination.
Jacksonfreak
New member
Re: Cusotm painting electric guitars: Has anyone tried their hand at it?
Jacksonfreak
New member
Re: Cusotm painting electric guitars: Has anyone tried their hand at it?
crusty philtrum
Vintageologist
Re: Cusotm painting electric guitars: Has anyone tried their hand at it?
There are many processes and products to do that, so I won't outline a bunch of them or detail my own ways, but it's always with the end goal of achieveing a totally flat surface.
When the finish is sprayed on, it may look nice and shiny. But close inspection will reveal that the surface is actually kinda 'fuzzy'. Take the guitar into good daylight and hold your hand in front of the finish in such a way as to see it reflected. Look closely at the edges of the reflection ... are they really sharp edges, or somewhat blurry ? That bluriness to the edges of reflections are what limit the attainable gloss. Wet sanding and polishing with various compounds will remove the fuzziness of the surface by flattening the surface. When a polish is used to restore the shine once the surface is levelled, repeat the reflection test, and you should notice that now the edges of the reflections are sharp and clear. When that state is achieved, the gloss will be much more intense.
I liken it to the surface of a golf ball (or an orange, from where the term 'orange peel' is derived in terms of the surface of the finish). Spray paint on an orange or a golf ball and then lightly sand it ... the finish will be removed from the high points but will be untouched in the low points, or 'dimples'. Even though the finish in the low spots may be glossy, it will reflect the light differently. The reason why a mirror gives such an accurate reflection is because it's surface is, literally, as smooth as glass.
The best gloss is achieved by completely levelling the high and low points to remove the dimples and create a completely flat surface. Then, when the shine is restored with polish, the best gloss will be achieved. Of course this is all happening at a very fine level, but you can see the dimples in the finish when you start wet-sanding ... the higher parts will go dull from the abrasives, and the tiny dimples and low points will still be glossy as the abrasives didn't touch them (this work is best done in good daylight or under a good worklamp). The trick is to apply enough finish to allow for removing a slight amount of finish during the levelling process without breaking through the finish (especially tricky around corners and edges).
And a trick for that little issue is to start each coat of finish by running around any edges first, and then applying a complete coat, so that there is more finish on those places that can be prone to 'break-through' when levelling the finish.
And of course the key word is ALWAYS patience. Always. Never put a time limit on a finish job, as it's almost guaranteed that you won't make the deadline, or you will but you'll very likely have a rushed job that limits the quality of the result.
There are many processes and products to do that, so I won't outline a bunch of them or detail my own ways, but it's always with the end goal of achieveing a totally flat surface.
When the finish is sprayed on, it may look nice and shiny. But close inspection will reveal that the surface is actually kinda 'fuzzy'. Take the guitar into good daylight and hold your hand in front of the finish in such a way as to see it reflected. Look closely at the edges of the reflection ... are they really sharp edges, or somewhat blurry ? That bluriness to the edges of reflections are what limit the attainable gloss. Wet sanding and polishing with various compounds will remove the fuzziness of the surface by flattening the surface. When a polish is used to restore the shine once the surface is levelled, repeat the reflection test, and you should notice that now the edges of the reflections are sharp and clear. When that state is achieved, the gloss will be much more intense.
I liken it to the surface of a golf ball (or an orange, from where the term 'orange peel' is derived in terms of the surface of the finish). Spray paint on an orange or a golf ball and then lightly sand it ... the finish will be removed from the high points but will be untouched in the low points, or 'dimples'. Even though the finish in the low spots may be glossy, it will reflect the light differently. The reason why a mirror gives such an accurate reflection is because it's surface is, literally, as smooth as glass.
The best gloss is achieved by completely levelling the high and low points to remove the dimples and create a completely flat surface. Then, when the shine is restored with polish, the best gloss will be achieved. Of course this is all happening at a very fine level, but you can see the dimples in the finish when you start wet-sanding ... the higher parts will go dull from the abrasives, and the tiny dimples and low points will still be glossy as the abrasives didn't touch them (this work is best done in good daylight or under a good worklamp). The trick is to apply enough finish to allow for removing a slight amount of finish during the levelling process without breaking through the finish (especially tricky around corners and edges).
And a trick for that little issue is to start each coat of finish by running around any edges first, and then applying a complete coat, so that there is more finish on those places that can be prone to 'break-through' when levelling the finish.
And of course the key word is ALWAYS patience. Always. Never put a time limit on a finish job, as it's almost guaranteed that you won't make the deadline, or you will but you'll very likely have a rushed job that limits the quality of the result.
Last edited:
kramersteen
PowerMetalRaph
Re: Cusotm painting electric guitars: Has anyone tried their hand at it?
I use this one as a bathroom mirror.
DA shiny
I use this one as a bathroom mirror.
DA shiny
